Need help with DIY bow work
#1
Need help with DIY bow work
Hello,
I am ready to start doing my own bow work because I am tired of paying other people to do the work. Plus, I get a satisfaction from DIY jobs. Anyway, I would like your input on what I would need. I know a bow press, and a arrow saw and a fletching jig. What else. Thanks for your help. Jimmy
I am ready to start doing my own bow work because I am tired of paying other people to do the work. Plus, I get a satisfaction from DIY jobs. Anyway, I would like your input on what I would need. I know a bow press, and a arrow saw and a fletching jig. What else. Thanks for your help. Jimmy
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Hello,
I am ready to start doing my own bow work because I am tired of paying other people to do the work. Plus, I get a satisfaction from DIY jobs. Anyway, I would like your input on what I would need. I know a bow press, and a arrow saw and a fletching jig. What else. Thanks for your help. Jimmy
I am ready to start doing my own bow work because I am tired of paying other people to do the work. Plus, I get a satisfaction from DIY jobs. Anyway, I would like your input on what I would need. I know a bow press, and a arrow saw and a fletching jig. What else. Thanks for your help. Jimmy
You need a good vise. Pay the extra money for an apple. Save your money on levels IMO. Unless your vise is very solid, difficult to use. Dance around like crazy. Save your money on laser centershots, thats what tuning is for.
Get at least a 5K RPM saw. Get a chafer tool. I like a G5 arrow square. Get some various sizes serving. I have on hand .19, .22, .25 and .30 halo. Different strings and applications need different stuff. Get some loop materal at least a few yards. I use a few jigs depending on application from bitzenberg, or even like Arizona easy fletch. Build yourself a paper tuning jig. I made mine out of 2X4's.
Its also handy to have some D97 string material or something simular around. Not 100% to have, but it makes some tight nocking knots.
You can build a big drawing board but I hate me for storage. A strong hook on the ceiling does the same thing for timing.
If you are tuning older bows or bows with a split buss cable, a spot hogg laser is cool. Or you can use it to check cam lean. I love mine. But I only use it a few times a year.
Oh, and the best took I can think of is Whiteout. Great for making locations on the string.
#4
Depending on the bow, you might be able to use a portable press. But if its beyond parrallel, or center pivot, you need a special press to press the ends of the limbs. A few out there all of course over 500dollars. This is the reason I love the guardian and commander. No press needed.
You need a good vise. Pay the extra money for an apple. Save your money on levels IMO. Unless your vise is very solid, difficult to use. Dance around like crazy. Save your money on laser centershots, thats what tuning is for.
Get at least a 5K RPM saw. Get a chafer tool. I like a G5 arrow square. Get some various sizes serving. I have on hand .19, .22, .25 and .30 halo. Different strings and applications need different stuff. Get some loop materal at least a few yards. I use a few jigs depending on application from bitzenberg, or even like Arizona easy fletch. Build yourself a paper tuning jig. I made mine out of 2X4's.
Its also handy to have some D97 string material or something simular around. Not 100% to have, but it makes some tight nocking knots.
You can build a big drawing board but I hate me for storage. A strong hook on the ceiling does the same thing for timing.
If you are tuning older bows or bows with a split buss cable, a spot hogg laser is cool. Or you can use it to check cam lean. I love mine. But I only use it a few times a year.
Oh, and the best took I can think of is Whiteout. Great for making locations on the string.
You need a good vise. Pay the extra money for an apple. Save your money on levels IMO. Unless your vise is very solid, difficult to use. Dance around like crazy. Save your money on laser centershots, thats what tuning is for.
Get at least a 5K RPM saw. Get a chafer tool. I like a G5 arrow square. Get some various sizes serving. I have on hand .19, .22, .25 and .30 halo. Different strings and applications need different stuff. Get some loop materal at least a few yards. I use a few jigs depending on application from bitzenberg, or even like Arizona easy fletch. Build yourself a paper tuning jig. I made mine out of 2X4's.
Its also handy to have some D97 string material or something simular around. Not 100% to have, but it makes some tight nocking knots.
You can build a big drawing board but I hate me for storage. A strong hook on the ceiling does the same thing for timing.
If you are tuning older bows or bows with a split buss cable, a spot hogg laser is cool. Or you can use it to check cam lean. I love mine. But I only use it a few times a year.
Oh, and the best took I can think of is Whiteout. Great for making locations on the string.
I agree dang near all the way with big here. Though, we each do things a bit differently, I can definately concur that you damn sure don't need no $100 laser centershot tool. And those things are almost always wrong anyway (trust me... I used one for two years).
I good, basic bow square is vital.... as is a bow vise.... good Lord a bow vise is essential!
I honestly don't think you need an arrow saw. Even a dummy-oh at a big box store can match an arrow size for size. You can always square your ends and glue your own inserts. But thats another $100 you don't need to spend.
Personally, I think a good string jig is nice, especially when it comes to reserving, and if you shoot a lot, and have a hard cam bow... you are going to have to reserve eventually, unless you like buying lots of strings. I find that my servings are more durable than every single string maker on the market, except for winner's choice. My last Barracuda on my Mathews lasted less than 300 shots. I think I had a trainee string makers serve that one... because I've seen them last a lot longer than that.
This might sound dumb... but one tool I use everyday (I do this for a living) is a dental pick. Your dentist will give you cleaned and sanitized one or two if you ask. They are great for cleaning guns too. Lots of times with some of the older bows where the strings are basically dry rotted onto the studs of the cams.... I can't get my fingers down in those groves... and I've pulled spiders and dirt and sand out of bearings and man you'd be shocked to find some people store their bows in a barn all summer. Great for clearing out birds nests in conventional fishing reels too.
You are also going to need some serving tools.... Cavalier makes the finest.
I tie in peeps and what not with Woodstock braided casting line. Its black in color... and its as fray resistant (if not more so) than even power pro (which is really just Halo by a different name). I wouldn't use the Woodstock stuff for anythign fishing wise unless it was just backing a reel (I am a big time power pro fan).... but the woodstock is a dacron based line... and I like 30# test. A 300 foot spool of the stuff costs about $6 at any bait and tackle store and that will last you forever (thats about half the price of a spool of that crappy BCY black stuff. You'll also want some high tensile end serving and large diameter center serving.
There is a whole host of other things I use on other people's bows.. but that is kinda like surgury... where as with my own I need very very little because I don't ever let my fastners rust in place.... so it really just depends how involoved you are going to get.
#6
Precisely why I just pay my local guy $10 to put on a new set of strings, re-serve in my peep and STS serving, makes sure my cams are in time, put a loop on and give the bow back to me. I also let him or one of the guys that works for him fletch my arrows because for $1 or $1.50 per arrow, it's WORTH it in all honesty. I'm BLESSED to have a good shop and an honest guy to deal with that takes good care of me and my stuff. In return, I keep bringing my business back to him!!!!
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Precisely why I just pay my local guy $10 to put on a new set of strings, re-serve in my peep and STS serving, makes sure my cams are in time, put a loop on and give the bow back to me. I also let him or one of the guys that works for him fletch my arrows because for $1 or $1.50 per arrow, it's WORTH it in all honesty. I'm BLESSED to have a good shop and an honest guy to deal with that takes good care of me and my stuff. In return, I keep bringing my business back to him!!!!
#8
Precisely why I just pay my local guy $10 to put on a new set of strings, re-serve in my peep and STS serving, makes sure my cams are in time, put a loop on and give the bow back to me. I also let him or one of the guys that works for him fletch my arrows because for $1 or $1.50 per arrow, it's WORTH it in all honesty. I'm BLESSED to have a good shop and an honest guy to deal with that takes good care of me and my stuff. In return, I keep bringing my business back to him!!!!
Last edited by jimmy28303; 08-11-2009 at 05:49 AM.
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 28
there`s all kinds of plans for an arrow saw. i built one for less then 5 bucks. a bow square i don`t like the ones you buy so i cut one from a cereal box. I have access to a metal lathe and welder so i made my own press and string jig .there`s a lot you can do on your own.
#10
A tool I can't live without is Archers Advantage,It takes so much quess work out of spine selection for a new setup or even an old one that you are playing around with your draw length or poundage.
Although it isn't "essential",it is very nice to have.
Although it isn't "essential",it is very nice to have.