My first shots were tearing high/left, so i moved my nocking point down to correct the vertical tear. Now they are just tearing left, and according to everything that i have read regarding papertuning, my arrow spine is too weak. I can't imagine how this could be, i just switched to the Carbon Express Predator 6075's, my arrow length is 27 inches and my bow is set to 65lbs. According to the Carbon Express arrow charts, i am on the heavier side. Anyways... should i start to crank my bows poundage down and see if it corrects the spine problem, or do you guy's think it's something else?

Could be several things. Clearance issues, (espeically for blazers), centershot on your bow could be off. Gripping the bow (this is the most common problem I see with paper tuning), weak bow arm, (second most common problem). Ensure your rest is dead center. Try moving it and see what happens.

Exactly!!!! Most times its the grip, especailly on new bows, a bad grip will show up on Paper tuning along with other issues such as having clearence issues because of the centershot is off.

I'm pretty sure that i don't have clearance issues. I know that i don't have one of those grip it and rip it grips either. I try not to torque the bow the best i can, i modeled it from photos showing the proper grip. How would i know if it were my grip?

I just tried lowering the poundage but it had no effect. Not really sure where to go from here. The weird part is that 1 out of 4 shots were perfect bullet holes, i also tried playing with my grip but the results were the same. Any advise?

Yeah, I'd stop worrying about it.

Get the bow where it is comfortable for you. Make sure you are not having clearance issues. Walk-back tune then sight in. Practice and practice some more. Broadhead tune next... practice practice.

Arrows are going to flex like mad coming off the bow. Take a step back and she'll probably tear right.

An easy way to find out if you have a gripping problem is to make a video and watch it. If your bow arm is moving after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If the bow moves period during and after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If your hand isn't dead loose during and after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If you are gripping your release to shoot and your release isn't following thru, you shouldn't be paper tuning.

After the shot is your release right beside your head? Or is it back behind your ear like you pulled thru the shot?

Hey, I have been there. And was shocked how much bow movement came after the shot. Bow usually ended up 2" to the left. Or if not balanced correctly, fall back or forward. Or caught myself without out my bow shoulder down. Or plucking the release.

If you really feel your not torquing or moving the bow, and you ahve moved the rest every which way from sunday, and you feel your arrows are spined consistently and "newer" not ones you shot for the past 5 years, you need to start looking at cams.

That is some wonderful advice right there BC. I agree that paper tuning can show shooter issues as much, if not even more so, than bow issues. Tuning is certainly limited by the ability of the shooter.

What kind of bow is it?? The other guys have given 99% of the good advice right there, but maybe it could be a tuning issue?

It almost sounds like the tuning issues people are experiencing with the Xforce GX bows...

Derek

It's a Martin Jaguar.