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Trying to paper tune but having issues.
My first shots were tearing high/left, so i moved my nocking point down to correct the vertical tear. Now they are just tearing left, and according to everything that i have read regarding papertuning, my arrow spine is too weak. I can't imagine how this could be, i just switched to the Carbon Express Predator 6075's, my arrow length is 27 inches and my bow is set to 65lbs. According to the Carbon Express arrow charts, i am on the heavier side. Anyways... should i start to crank my bows poundage down and see if it corrects the spine problem, or do you guy's think it's something else?
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Could be several things. Clearance issues, (espeically for blazers), centershot on your bow could be off. Gripping the bow (this is the most common problem I see with paper tuning), weak bow arm, (second most common problem). Ensure your rest is dead center. Try moving it and see what happens.
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Originally Posted by bigcountry
(Post 3399609)
Could be several things. Clearance issues, (espeically for blazers), centershot on your bow could be off. Gripping the bow (this is the most common problem I see with paper tuning), weak bow arm, (second most common problem). Ensure your rest is dead center. Try moving it and see what happens.
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I'm pretty sure that i don't have clearance issues. I know that i don't have one of those grip it and rip it grips either. I try not to torque the bow the best i can, i modeled it from photos showing the proper grip. How would i know if it were my grip?
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I just tried lowering the poundage but it had no effect. Not really sure where to go from here. The weird part is that 1 out of 4 shots were perfect bullet holes, i also tried playing with my grip but the results were the same. Any advise?
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Originally Posted by dstubb
(Post 3399842)
I just tried lowering the poundage but it had no effect. Not really sure where to go from here. The weird part is that 1 out of 4 shots were perfect bullet holes, i also tried playing with my grip but the results were the same. Any advise?
Get the bow where it is comfortable for you. Make sure you are not having clearance issues. Walk-back tune then sight in. Practice and practice some more. Broadhead tune next... practice practice. Arrows are going to flex like mad coming off the bow. Take a step back and she'll probably tear right. |
An easy way to find out if you have a gripping problem is to make a video and watch it. If your bow arm is moving after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If the bow moves period during and after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If your hand isn't dead loose during and after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If you are gripping your release to shoot and your release isn't following thru, you shouldn't be paper tuning.
After the shot is your release right beside your head? Or is it back behind your ear like you pulled thru the shot? Hey, I have been there. And was shocked how much bow movement came after the shot. Bow usually ended up 2" to the left. Or if not balanced correctly, fall back or forward. Or caught myself without out my bow shoulder down. Or plucking the release. If you really feel your not torquing or moving the bow, and you ahve moved the rest every which way from sunday, and you feel your arrows are spined consistently and "newer" not ones you shot for the past 5 years, you need to start looking at cams. |
Originally Posted by bigcountry
(Post 3400029)
An easy way to find out if you have a gripping problem is to make a video and watch it. If your bow arm is moving after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If the bow moves period during and after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If your hand isn't dead loose during and after the shot, you shouldn't be paper tuning. If you are gripping your release to shoot and your release isn't following thru, you shouldn't be paper tuning.
After the shot is your release right beside your head? Or is it back behind your ear like you pulled thru the shot? Hey, I have been there. And was shocked how much bow movement came after the shot. Bow usually ended up 2" to the left. Or if not balanced correctly, fall back or forward. Or caught myself without out my bow shoulder down. Or plucking the release. If you really feel your not torquing or moving the bow, and you ahve moved the rest every which way from sunday, and you feel your arrows are spined consistently and "newer" not ones you shot for the past 5 years, you need to start looking at cams. That is some wonderful advice right there BC. I agree that paper tuning can show shooter issues as much, if not even more so, than bow issues. Tuning is certainly limited by the ability of the shooter. |
What kind of bow is it?? The other guys have given 99% of the good advice right there, but maybe it could be a tuning issue?
It almost sounds like the tuning issues people are experiencing with the Xforce GX bows... Derek |
Originally Posted by drockw
(Post 3400236)
What kind of bow is it?? The other guys have given 99% of the good advice right there, but maybe it could be a tuning issue?
It almost sounds like the tuning issues people are experiencing with the Xforce GX bows... Derek |
Number each arrow and shoot them all and mark where the hit the target.Repeat shooting a few times and see if it is the same arrow that is shooting good and that the athers might have something wrong with them.
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Originally Posted by fishstuffer
(Post 3400803)
Number each arrow and shoot them all and mark where the hit the target.Repeat shooting a few times and see if it is the same arrow that is shooting good and that the athers might have something wrong with them.
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Originally Posted by dstubb
(Post 3400867)
I'll try it but i doubt that anything is wrong with them. I just bought a new set of Carbon Express Predators last week and have only shot each arrow during the paper tune.
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I am still thinking grip or form as evidenced by the 1 in 4. Are you putting your weight on your back foot when you shoot? Do you have a wrist strap on the bow? Weight on your front foot will cause this. As will a weak bow arm.
By the way...how far left are the tears going? And what kind of rest is it again? |
Originally Posted by dryridge2
(Post 3401067)
I am still thinking grip or form as evidenced by the 1 in 4. Are you putting your weight on your back foot when you shoot? Do you have a wrist strap on the bow? Weight on your front foot will cause this. As will a weak bow arm.
By the way...how far left are the tears going? And what kind of rest is it again? |
1 Attachment(s)
Heres a photo.
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Originally Posted by dstubb
(Post 3401423)
Heres a photo.
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I would say that it falls slightly but nothing out of control.
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Originally Posted by dstubb
(Post 3401537)
I would say that it falls slightly but nothing out of control.
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Originally Posted by drockw
(Post 3400236)
What kind of bow is it?? The other guys have given 99% of the good advice right there, but maybe it could be a tuning issue?
It almost sounds like the tuning issues people are experiencing with the Xforce GX bows... Derek IMO,the left tear on those bows would be from a weak arrow.Those bows shoot HARD and arrow charts do not work for them.You need to go stiffer than the charts. Drop aways really make this tough for they drop to soon to guide the arrow straight if the spine is borderline.Spine needs to be near perfect for perfect bulletholes with a dropaway that drops early. |
Originally Posted by TFOX
(Post 3401683)
IMO,the left tear on those bows would be from a weak arrow.Those bows shoot HARD and arrow charts do not work for them.You need to go stiffer than the charts.
Drop aways really make this tough for they drop to soon to guide the arrow straight if the spine is borderline.Spine needs to be near perfect for perfect bulletholes with a dropaway that drops early. He doesnt have one though so i guess we can pitch that thought:throw: |
I would not let a 1/4" tear in one out of 4 bother me. Do you realize how little it takes to do that. I would check to see if it is one specific arrow. If so, pitch it. If not. Go shoot some groups and if you have issues there....then we'll talk about it again.
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I'm with SwampCollie....
Zero a pin, do a walk-back tune on it, and screw on some BH's and BH tune it. Paper tuning is more tedious and time consuming than useful IMO. Especially if you are going to spend all this time paper-tuning to get the "perfect tear," then need to re-adjust for BH tuning. |
Put a twist or 2 in the left side yoke and see if that takes away the tear....I bet it will!!!
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Originally Posted by OHbowhntr
(Post 3403316)
I'm with SwampCollie....
Zero a pin, do a walk-back tune on it, and screw on some BH's and BH tune it. Paper tuning is more tedious and time consuming than useful IMO. Especially if you are going to spend all this time paper-tuning to get the "perfect tear," then need to re-adjust for BH tuning. Paper tuning is more tedious and time consuming but when u learn how to do it right the end result will be Broadheads & fieldtips hittin in the same spot.It will also let u know if a bow wont tune ive seen plenty in the last 17 yrs that wouldnt tune right up to 2009.Shooting through the paper will show all the flaws of u and your bow.:D |
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