MeanV2

Dan, I swear my Bows are shooting better than before too!! The Camirror will even show changes made by only half a twist.

Good job Russ!!

Dan

bigcountry

You know this is first time I seen someone bring up that we are setting our cams wrong at full draw. Is anyone else here amazed no-one pointed this out until now?

walks with a gimp

I agree and I never really thought about it until I got my Admiral with the rotating mods with no stops. I thought, what the heck do you go by when tuning these cams. I did a LOT of adjusting and tinkering with the crank board, landmarking the cams against the limbs and scribing precise marks on the cams to landmark against the limbs also. I actually spent hours playing with the bow and though it seemed close, nothing seemed right when I'd look at the cables and how they were going to the cams while in the crank board at full draw.
I then thought, nothing is really common to each cam but the string because of the cable crossing position relating to where the cables should be allowed to cross in the center of the bow. The limbs are pretty close at full draw but unless they perfectly match in deflection they could make a twist or two difference also. I then thought that if the cams were sync'd at full draw with non-matching cable angles, they wouldn't be in mirror image orientation at brace,, why don't I want the cams to stop in the exact rotation,, I thought?

I DO!! That is where the arrow needs to be traveling in it's straightest path before it leaves the string. I made up a few prototypes and played with the crank board to comfirm my suspecion of that, when sync'd at brace they will be sync'd at full draw also. This being different than the top cam retarded at brace and advanced at full draw (or the top cam being "pre-drawn" through the draw and shot cycle..
Not much difference but it's easy to just set it with much less fussing with drawing the bow and working for a long time with someone helping or using a crank board,, and end up not setting the bow up like it was engineered to work
It works for all Binarys with mirror image profile cams and also as confirmed by MeanV that it works on his Ross Cardiac that is a Hybrid cam system. I think it would work on any Hybrid or Binary with mirror image matching string track profiles. The Hoyts I'm not sure of but I'll check into that soon I hope. There are a few bows like the Guardian and Commander that will be very close if the cables are switched to cross below the cable rod. Sync these at full draw and I believe it will beabout as good as the CaMirror,, but you still have to do all that drawing and looking

bigcountry

Remember back in the day of split buss cables and no single cams, and no back wall (only been like 5-8 years or more ago) but we all used to creep tune our bows so if we creeped or short drew, we would hit relative same POI.

I wander if a binary system likes this also by having the top cam turn over a tad faster? But as some of us know, there is no room to creep a guardian for instance. Just thinking outloud. Not sure how long I could hold a creeped 1" guardian.

walks with a gimp

Creep tuning a conventional dual cam bow helps to adjust the cam sync/limb tiller to an individuals needs in grip style and release. It's a way to make the shot more forgiving if the shooter is a little inconsistent with the draw length while holding at full draw,, at the shot.
Binarys are physically tied together and they really can't react individually at the shot like a conventional dual cam bow.You also have the draw stop post or mod stops to help you retain your draw length at the shot with the Binarys. A Gaurdian's module stops can be filed, milled or put on a belt sander to take a little material off the back of the stops to get more valley but they need to be done while bolted together. Also the cutter must be square with both surfaces of the mods.

ampahunter

Well today I received Russ's 'camirror' tool and immediately decided I'll work it out.
Just last Friday, I made myself a new set of CBL's and STR for my Guardian. I made the CBL exact to specs, 38-1/4", and prestretched to 200# prior to serving the loop ends and closing the loops, then to 300# for the center serving. When I was done I was spot on at 38-1/4" end to end.
Today I checked the cam sync with Russ's tool and I was extremely satisified to see my cams were in perfect sync.

One thing I've learnt already...start checking the snyc on the 'top cam first'. Not a big deal...but I started aligning the tool at the bottom cam and when I moved it over to the top cam the 'pointer' fell exactly at my peep...not good. So now I align with the top cam first (away from the peep),then switch over to the bottom cam.
Of course after I was done I had to re-polish the tool, as it came spanking clean and after I was done with it my DNA was all over the tool.
Thanks a whole bunch Russ, this is one heckuva tool you've designed and built here!