Let me start by saying I don' t paper tune or bare shaft tune, BUT I DID. I group tune and my groups seem to be fine, but I' m confused with the results of my paper and bare shaft test. My setup for 3D:
Right handed, caliper release, loop above and below nock (No nock contact)
Martin MV2 with fury X cams (split cable).
28-1/4" amo draw.
58#
Creep tuned to 40 yards.
27.5" cxl 250, 80 gr point (little stiff according to archers advantage)
Bodoodle pro-lite (spring tension as advised by Bodoodle)

My results:
paper = 1-1/2" level right tear
Bare shaft = 8" left 5" low bare shaft

Bare shaft left indicates stiff shaft. Easton says right tear for right handed release shooters is uncommon and indicates possible vane contact. I powder tested and no contact. I increased bow weight from 58 to 64 pounds. No change in bare shaft or paper. I decreased to 53 pounds. No change in bare shaft or paper. I moved nock higher, No change in paper, bare shaft didn' t move left or right but moved closer or further apart depending which way I moved it. If I moved far enough down to get bare shaft close, I am below level (nock low).
Changed to a longer weaker arrow (29" ). Same results as above. No change in paper tear. Very minor (1/2" ) change in Bare shaft left result.
Moved rest to the left. No change in paper tear, but bare shaft moved closer to fletched. I got them even in the vertical but they are still about 5" apart (bare low) when I have my nock about 1/16" above level. Problem with this set up is my powder test shows my center shot too far left. Everyone with fury-x cams say their center shot is perfect center.
What is my bow trying to tell me? I will ignore the paper and bare shaft unless someone will convince my something otherwise. I shoot plenty. My 34 year marriage probably won' t survive 1 more arrow than I shoot now.
Any help?

Man ,you gave me a headache

I think you need to move rest in and make spring weaker on rest.

That is what both your bare shaft and paper tell me.

When I experiment with the spine by changing draw weight, I usually see a movement in the nock end of the arrow. I don' t pay as much attention to where the tip hits, as I do to the direction the nock-end leans. My goal is to get the arrow flying straight for as long as possible. The further away you get, the more likely the nock-end will start moving sideways. If you can get it coming off the bow, perfectly straight, then it will go quite a distance before turning. It' s not clear by your description, which direction the nocks are leaning. Maybe your shafts are very stiff and you need to try something around 70 lbs, or an extra 25 or 50 grains on the tip.

Rack...you have my headache. Paper tear didn' t change with any adjustment, wether it be heavier or lighter rest tension...heavier or lighter bow weight...weaker or stiffer spined arrows...rest moved in or moved out.

Straight....I tried a 15 pound range along with stiffer or weaker arrows. No paper tear change.

The only thing that would change would be the bare shaft test if I moved my rest out...the bare shaft and fletched would come together. But, bows with the shoot-thru cable system are supposed to have a center center-shot, not the rest moved to the right. My bow is trying to tell me something....I just don' t know what.

My groups are good (softball at 65 yards) so I' ll leave it " group tuned" , but just trying to figure what my bow is trying to tell me.

I personally pay no attention to paper tears. It depends on exactly where you are standing and at what point during arrow paradox the arrow happens to pass through the paper.

If you are bare shaft testing at 25 yards and getting your nocks to point straight out towards where you shot from, over a 15 lb range, I can' t imagine how it happened. I' ve bare shaft tested many bows and have a difficult time getting the arrow to point straight out, at even the most ideal draw weight. 10 lbs either way and I' d be lucky if the arrow didn' t hit the target sideways, from 25 yards.