cowboy4513

I have never had this problem before with broadheads. Normally I practice all summer with field points then a week before the season put the broadheads on and they shoot exactly where I want them. this time with a new bow new arrows same broads... Im getting mad flyers. they are kicking really hard. I dont know what to do.

Please any advice is great!

thank you

Mikey S.

Every combo is different man. There could be hundred things causing your bad flight: cam timing, tiller out of wack, rest out of position, improperly spined arrows, draw length not set for you properly, nock point to high/low, fletching contact....just to name a few. The easiest thing to do is shoot some field points through paper and see what they are doing, and go from there.

...or try a different head.

cowboy4513

THanks mike. My arrows fly true through paper. I just ordered some new points. I want to take it into my bow shop but they are too damn busy.

OHbowhntr

Are you getting any regularity to your groups???? Consistently left, right, high, low??? If so, you can tweak things, if now, I'd start looking at the arrow-tip combination, and making sure you don't have any fletching contact.

Post up your bow, arrows, arrow length, draw-weight and length, and tip weight, and I'll run your numbers on OT2 and let you know how close they are.

If you do have SOME consistency, check out this thread..... http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=539460 It's nearing 28,000 views for a VERY good reason. And just because you can get something to go "straight" through paper don't make it "right." Trust me.

Mikey S.

well that's a good start for now. But like OHbowhntr said, that don't always mean a broadhead is gonna shoot straight. You should post up you set up so we see what you got. Are you missing consistently in the same direction ? or are they scattered?

cowboy4513

I have a mathews drenalin

28.5 Draw Length
70 lbs
100 grain G5 montecs
Beeman arrows 29" 4" vanes

Im getting consistancy but to the right the back of the arrow looks like the back of the arrow kicks out then goes right. it seems like its flying alot slower too.

This is starting to scare me guys season opens up on the 1st and I have been working double shifts so I can take time during the season off. I sure as hell cant go into the woods with this setup... I really cant afford anything else either.

deertale

I'd download the Easton Tuning Guide and follow the paper tuning and the broadhead tuning procedures. Good luck

sr77

I agree with the above ideas, your paper tune is probably out of wack. Just because your Field points shoot bullet holes does not mean you BH's will. I went throught this about 3 weeks ago with 125 Montecs. I built my own paper tuning stand out of PVC and started testing. Did slight adjustments until both FP's and BH's were hitting the exact same spot. Took me about 45 mins to dial her right in. Make sure you spin test your BH's so there is no wobble. Make sure your spine is not to weak, and if so just adjust weight on limbs if it is a small adjustment, if it is slightly stiif you will be ok out to a certain distance, long range may suffer a bit or so I have been told by my bow shop. Spray your fletching with foot powder and shoot, check vanes for contact as it will leave residue on rest and you will notice it missing off vane. I am giving you just a few ideas to try off the top of my head. Best of luck bud.


Shane

OHbowhntr

Ok, if you are seeing "THIS" then you likely need to move the rest ever so slightly to the left. What Beman arrows do you have??? Looks like if you were to shoot a 400 series Beman arrow you may be better off with a 125 grain tip, but if you are seeing the arrow kick, I'd automatically start looking for vane contact somewhere, part of the reason I say move the rest to the left. I've also gotten EXCELLENT BH steering out of blazers on ALL of my set-ups, but 4" vanes can and will do the job as well, but when using a drop-away, I found that I had more contact issues with longer vanes when trying to get things set up. Are your arrow spin-testing fine, without any wobble or anything??? Sorry, but I have more questions than answers, but hopefully, Oct. 1st can wait until you get things worked out!!!


Shane,
Paper-tuning is great to start out, but I've seen a LOT of bows that wouldn't shoot BH's worth a damn, including 2 of my own, but were "paper-tuned" well. I agree that the foot powder check for vane clearance is a good idea for him, but he already said his bow shot "fine" through paper, which lends itself to what I've already said about "paper-tuned" bows not shooting BH's well. I personally walk-back all of my set-ups after I "eyeball" everything, and get them as close to "perfect" as I can and then throw on some BH's and shoot at 20 or so yds and see how close I am to the same POI. This is how I end up tweaking my centerrest and nockpoint, to make sure I'm getting SAME POI w/ BH's and FP's. A SMALL adjustment certainly can go a LONG way when shooting BH's though, that's for SURE!!!!

XXXL Bowhunter

OHbowhntr,
Thanks for the link to AT...Now, I will be able to BH tune witha lot less trouble than otherwise. I am new to this so links like you gave are a GREAT help.