RE: 3 questions about my bow???
 

Just wondering... Did you actually measure the tiller at each end of the riser like I described or did you just go by how the nock point moved? The way to do it is level out the tiller and then reset the nock point.

Anyway, you've raised the nock point and peep in relation to the sight pins. You'll probably need to raise your pins by about the same amount or you'll be shooting high. You'll need to recheck your tune also.

RE: 3 questions about my bow???
 

ok, by tune do you mean tune in general or paper tune? ok so i will be shooting alittle high, and no i didntmeasure[:-]i just looked by how the nock point moved, was that bad? I was alittle confused by what ya meant to do, even though that isnt a excuse.

RE: 3 questions about my bow???
 

Okay... Take a length of string, long enough for you to stretch over the axles (the steel pins that run through your cams and attach them to the limbs). Have someone hold the string tight for you while you take a measurment at each end of the riser. You want to measure from the angle where the limb meets the riser to that string. The measurements should be the same on each end of the riser. If they aren't, you have to adjust it.

Tightening the limb bolt will shorten the measurement. Backing off on the limb bolt will lengthen the measurement.

When you get those measurements equal, you've gotten your basic tiller adjustment. This is one of the most basic first steps to any good tune job. It has to be done before the nock point is set. Anyway, once you're at that point, THEN loosen your loop and move it so your arrow is square to the string and riser.

If you don't have a bow square to set your nocking point accurately, then get one. An archer without a bow square is like a doctor without a stethoscope.

After you do that, the bow will need to be tuned again. Paper tuned, if that's your favorite tuning method.

Or, what I'd be really tempted to do, take the bow back to the shop that tuned it for you and tell them to do it again, but to set the tiller and tune it right this time. NEVER accept a tune job where they finish up and the nockset is below square. Nock slightly high - like 1/8" or so - is okay, but it should never, ever be below square.

RE: 3 questions about my bow???
 

alrights thanks i know what i gotta do now, and they may have set the tiller without me knowing, cause i was looking at some other stuff when they were working on, thanks alot arthur P.

RE: 3 questions about my bow???
 

Sorry its been awhile but i am putting pics up to make sure i measured the tiller right, and how can i tell when my limb bolt it backed out all the way? Here is the pics, the thread (couldnt find string) is alittle hard to see but you can see it.

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa101/millerhunter13/100_0252.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa101/millerhunter13/100_0251.jpg

http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa101/millerhunter13/100_0253.jpg

RE: 3 questions about my bow???
 

What Arthur is talking about here is to put a tight string or straight edge from axle to axle. Then measure, perpendicularfrom this line, to the point at whichthe limb meets the riser. The center of the hinge bolt on a Hoyt makes a good point to measure forward to the line. These distances, top vs. bottom, represent the tiller measurement on the bow. For instance, my ProTec is about 7 3/4" at the bottom and 7 3/16" at the top. Hope this makes sense without a picture.

RE: 3 questions about my bow???
 

^ so did i do it right, or do i just measure out to the string?