Tuning problems
 

So the past week I have been wokring on getting my broadheads to fly where my fieldpoints fly. I am shooting 27.5" Maxima Hunters 250 with the montec 100 grain broadhead. I am pulling 71lbs on my hoyt vulcan I have adjusted the wisker biscuit in small (1/32") increments and have been able to get the BH's to fly at the same height of the filedtips but they are still going to the right about 3" inches at 20 yards. I then proceeded move the biscuit away from the bow in small increments but am almost out of room on the rest, I have maybe 1/8" to move left but it doesn't seem to move the arrows any further at this point. I then tried moving the rest in the opposite direction towards the bow and it got considerably worse so I moved it back to where I was getting 3" to the right groups with the BH. The BH's are "clanking shafts" if I shoot good just right. Does anyone have suggestions?

My thoughts are below:

1) my spine is not correct for the poundage ( I used OT2) accordingto my setup these arrows were perfect at this length. However the CX arrow guide for hunting has me using a 350 arrow or a 250 arrow if I use the bow weight adjustment sheet on their website.

2) move my sights a little to the right and see if that helps my broadheads group better with fieldpoints.


I want to get the groups tighter because I know once I go out to further distances I will be even more off please help if you can.

Thank You,
Chris

RE: Tuning problems
 

Looking at the charts, you may be a little underspined - Kinda on the border...

You could try turning your bows poundage way down - like the lower 60's and see what happens (just as a test).... Cheaper than going out and buying 350's or whatever right out of the gate...

RE: Tuning problems
 

Yeah the only problem is that my bowhas 70-80 lbs limbs so I am about as light as it gets. I bought these arrows because I knew I would not be adding any weight for atleast a year and the 250's seemedthe match on OT2.

RE: Tuning problems
 

Did you actually check the speed of the bow or go with what OT2 said.


You should always claibrate the programs when using them for spine adjustments.


The wb hasn't been the easiest rest to tune for me,others swear by them.(I do not have a vast experience with them though)

These are the 2 places I would start.

RE: Tuning problems
 

I checked the speed of the bow about 3 months prior to using OT2 and was shooting about 275FPS and OT2 said the bow was about 271FPS and so I left it at that I don't have OT2 anymore but I would guess hat 4 FPS would not make that big of difference but I could be wrong.

As far as the wisker this is my first one and I am trying to make it work due to lack of funds but I think I would do much better with a limb driver.

RE: Tuning problems
 

As long as that speed was with the right arrow weight,the 4 fps wouldn't make enough of a difference to cause your problem.

RE: Tuning problems
 

Walk back tune with the BH and see what that tells you, adjust accordingly. If they hit the same after that, they will, if not they won't. I'd only use one arrow for the testing.

RE: Tuning problems
 

Ok so if I do this walk back tuning with a BH should I do it with or without fletchings?

RE: Tuning problems
 

Never shoot BH's without fletching. I mean never. However I am sure most of us have tried it with wild results.

If your seriously hitting with BH's 3" to the right, then you have to change your spine.

RE: Tuning problems
 

Thats what I was afraid of that my spine is not right. I cannot seem to get this spine thing right OT2 tells me Maxima 250's are perfect and then the Carbon express chart says I am in the middle between the 250's and 350's This is frustrating does anyone have sugesstions on choosing a good spine size without dropping tons of money?

RE: Tuning problems
 

Well, if your hitting 3" to the right no matter what, what I would do is take 1" off 2 or 3 arrows, and seewhat that does. Or you can add a wrap, to stiffen up. One little trick I did lately is used black tape to add weight right at the nock. I added like 25gr to see if that helps.

But with a bisuit, you might not be able to cut down to 26.5". This should stiffen

RE: Tuning problems
 

Good idea I will try this first. I was thinking of doing an arrow wrap as well so maybe I will try one inch off the back and an arrow wrap. Does anyone have OT2 and if so could you put in my arrow and specs with a 26.5" arrow to tell me what that would do?

RE: Tuning problems
 

I ran your setup thru OT2 and honestly the 27.5 should be working as you saw at first. In fact, they show a tad stiff on OT2. And since your limbs are 70-80lbs, and your at 71lbs, your bow is not working very effeciently as a 60-70limb at 70lbs. So stiff reaction makes even less sense. So I am puzzled.

I wonder if more is at play here other than stiff or weak spine.

I assume when you bare shaft test, your bareshafts are hitting to the right also?

RE: Tuning problems
 

I am going to the shop today to have them look at my timing and rest setup maybe that will shed some light on the subject.

What do you mean by "And since your limbs are 70-80lbs, and your at 71lbs, your bow is not working very effeciently as a 60-70limb at 70lbs. So stiff reaction makes even less sense." I am sorry if this is a dumb question I am just trying to learn. I thought that because myBH are going right of the FT then my spine is having a weak reaction but again I could be wrong.

Thanks for your help big country.

RE: Tuning problems
 

Lets say, you had two bows. One had 70-80lb limbs and the other had 60-70. Lets say you set both to 70lb's on the nose. The one with the 60-70lb limb most likely will be alot faster and require a tad stiffer spine than the one with 70-80lb limb. Bows generally today work best and most efficient at thier max wieght.

RE: Tuning problems
 

Just because an arrow is labeled the same doesn't mean the spine is identical. I think CX is middle of the road as far as that goes. Gt's are weaker and Easton /Beman are stiffer.

The walk back tune will tell you if the center shot is right, if it is I don't think anything can be done short of trying a different arrow. It's kind of odd that the g5 isn't hitting the same as the point. It's one thing that head has going for it. I've never work on that bow though.

This site has some good info. http://www.alansarchery.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/HomePage/HomeFrameOrig.htm

RE: Tuning problems
 

Thank You nodog the alans website link is great it looks like I have a lot to lear about tuning and there can be a lot to work on that will help any shooter. I hope following some of these tips will allow me to shoot the arrows I bought.

RE: Tuning problems
 

You are underspined with the 250's. I shoot 29in 350's at 70# and mybroadheads hit EXACTLY where my fieldpoints do. There are a less expensive arrows out there that will work just as good for ya, but if you stick with the Maxima's then switch to 350's.

RE: Tuning problems
 

How in the world can you compare your 29" arrow to his 26" draw??

RE: Tuning problems
 

There may be some other issue going on. Might have a pro shop check things over. How is the centershot? Sometimes you can't quite get BH's and FP's to impact the same - but it usually isn't more than an inch or so.

What happens if you put on a 75 grain broadhead? If that brings the group back closer to the 100 gr. field point, then you know its a spine issue.

RE: Tuning problems
 

If you can rule out the spine issue as the problem I would suggest another avenue.
TFOX told me a long time ago when I was tring to tune my Trykon to get rid of the floating yoke.
I did... and the problems w/ the POI of bh's and fp's vanished.
Just a thought.

RE: Tuning problems
 

I agree you are underspined. I shoot 28" 350's at 73# and at 70#. The CX 300's or 400's (preferrable) are less expensive, but the Maxima 350's should get your broadheads back w/FT's. I bought 3 250's and 3 350's to compare out of My Ross Cardiac. Hands down, the 350's at 70# were dead on accurate w/broadheads and FT's.

RE: Tuning problems
 

Make sure your flecthing is not hitting anything,put a helecal on your fletching
.You my want to back of your poundage some and if you are underspined this should show it,then you go get a stiffer spined arrow and bump yoyr weight back up.