sngehl01

Found out i'm a little underspined last night shooting Ted Nugent signature arrows. can't get rid of a slight right tear.

Going to turn my bow down, but I only want to turn it down about 5-6 pounds, I think

I went and put it on a bow scale at the archery shop, and it only showed 65 pounds, but it's maxed out on 70lb limbs, everything is to spec, brace height, a2a, etc. It has a new winners choice string on it and it hasn't stretched any yet.

So, I'm just assuming their scale is off a little.

if anyone has an idea how many lbs 1 turn equates to that would be handy to know, thanks.

Paul L Mohr

Depends on the bow. Should probably be in your manual though. If you know the max amount of turns you can back it out you can just use simple math to figure it out.

Or if your doing it to match spine it really doesn't matter. You don't need to know the amount. Just adjust it until it tunes correctly. Then put it on a scale if you want to know what draw weight you are at.

Paul

MeanV2

Some bows are one turn equals one pound, but many more range from 3# to 5# per turn. Like Paul said best to use a scale or check your manual.

Dan

sngehl01

Thanks for the replies.

I backed it out, and I can not to keep it from tearing right. It's not bad, but it's still a right tear. Ugh. Shoots good tight groups out to 50 yards, so I probably shouldn't mess with it anymore. Oh well.

Thanks again.

MeanV2

Bare shaft and Walk back tune. It is very easy to get false readings on paper.

Dan

Paul L Mohr

I have never found paper tuning to be great method of determining spine myself. It could very well be your grip or a form error. This is the hard part about the tuning process. I use paper tuning for a check of the very basics of setting up a bow. Like is my rest close to centered or am I having any contact issues.

I would try broad head tuning or bare shaft tuning. And if you can't get things to come together then try messing with your spine. And remember it is not always a set in concrete adjustment. Just because it does one thing doesn't mean a specific adjustment will fix it. Sometimes you need to do the opposite of what you think you need to get it right. Release shooting is funny this way since your arrow tends to flex more up and down than it does side to side. Finger shooting from what I understand tends to be more repeatable for these things because the arrow will always leave the bow with a side to side flex to it.

With a release it can depend on the type of release, how you have it hooked, how you hold it and other things.

Maybe have someone else shoot it and see what happens.

Maybe you have some sort of contact issue as well.

And I wouldn't concern myself about a small tear, like an inch or under. You don't need a perfect bullet for it to shoot well. I would move on to the next step of tuning and see what happens. For me it is not uncommon to paper tune for a perfect bullet hole, then go to another form of tuning like broad tuning, group tuning or bare shaft tuning to fine tune it. Then go back to paper tuning and find out I don't have a perfect tear anymore.

Heck I have shot the same bow on different days and got different rips, without changing anything[]. When that happens it's not a tuning issue.

Another question would be does every arrow do this? or just one or two that are using to tune with?

Paul

Paul L Mohr

Looks like me an MeanV posted at the same time.

sngehl01

lol... great minds think alike?

Can one of you refer me to a good reference for broadhead tuning?

Thanks.

Paul L Mohr

Easton tuning guide, I don't have the link though. I think this website even has a tuning guide on it somewhere.

Paul

SwampCollie

Exactly.


Bows vary from model to model. The more parrallel the limbs, typically the greater the # reduction per turn. Up to about four #s with certain models.

Thats why we own scales my friend!