shott8283

i used the standard toothed blade that it came with and like SuperGForce said..if you take your time and go slowley youll be fine

some say you need to use an abbrasive cutoff wheel (like a metal cutoff wheel for a right angle grinder) but i couldnt find any in 3/8" arbor and 2" diameter..only 3" diameter and its too large to fit in the wheel housing

id stick with that blade that it comes with...

wade7575

I will try the sandard cut off wheel it comes with.Does it make a fairly smooth cut without fraying the cut end or cause it to delaminate.

Super G Force

My arrows I cut with this saw look just like the ones I used to have cut at the archery shop. I think you will be really happy with it, especially for the price.

wade7575

Super g force one last thing you understand I will be using this saw to cut carbon shafts not wood and I was wondering how long do the blades last when cutting carbon shafts.

Super G Force

I cut carbon with mine also. I cut mine, my dads, my brothers and the guy that I work with. Have not had a problem yet with the blade being an issue. I have not cut aluminum or wooden arrows.

Straightarrow

I purchased a cheapo 4 1/2" angle grinder and made a wooden jig to mount it in, square to an arrow holder. Works better than an Apple cut-off saw (well, at least as good). On the wooden arrow holder, I put an adjustable stop to ensure all arrows are exactly the same length. The good thing about the 4 1/2" grinder is the blades can be found at any industrial supply store. It's a standard size and you'll have lots of options.

Harbor freight sells these for the same price. I think the jig took me about 30 minutes to make and it allows me to spin the arrow while cutting. I'm not sure you can spin them with the cut-off saw. Spinning while cutting, is the proper way to cut them.

nodog

I use a 10" power miter saw with a thin cerf 40 tooth carbide blade. Any time you cut anythying if you put a scrape of wood behind it it won't let what you are cutting splintter on the back side of the cut. It also holds the peice firmly in place if it's a tube like a shaft.

Get a piece of hard wood. I use a piece of 1"x 1" maple. Put it on a table saw and ct out the coner3/8"x3/8". Make it long enough to hold the shaft but not so long that the vanes can't extend past it. Every time you cut shaft cut a little of the stick. You'll have clean square cuts every time. You need the block of wood.

You'll then have a saw that you can use for a bunch of other things. You can do the same thing with just a table saw and a miter fence. A good blade is critical and no you don't have to spend the big bucks on one. I don't even use a 10" blade in mine. 7 1/4" freud blade. Less than 20 bucks.

What ever you do, make some practise cuts first.