Just have a question for some of you technical guys.

I have been having problems tuning my MZE. All I have been concerned about is getting a perfect tear through paper. I am not going to rely on this method when its all said and done but surely I should be able to get a perfect bullet hole with this rest. I have tried/changed many things with no success.

Well, today I was at the range trying my newest idea out. It didn't seem to work either. Then I noticed that whenever I would "punch" the release I would get a perfectly shot arrow into the target (bareshaft not nock high,low, left or right). Then I would squeeze the trigger and I would be back to the nock being way left and sometimes up and left.

I think my release may be the culprit. Its a tru fire team realtree release.

Anyone agree/disagree?

I am not familiar with that style of release, but perhaps you could try a friends release and figure it out that way.

It's probably not the release that causes the difference in the shots. It's your bow hand and follow through or lack there of.

I have a hand held release that no matter what I do when I anchor with it,I get a tear.This is an expensive release and as davidmill mentioned,it really isn't the release,it is the way I shoot it.I get alot of FACIAL torque on the string when I use it.I can take the release and not anchor on my face with it and get a good tear.


Try that and see what happens,that may tell you the whole story.


A different release might be in your future.

One thing that worries me is that I have shot through paper in the past with my old rest (NAP QT 2000) and got a perfect tear, with my current release. I just don't know what else to do or what else it could be. I really think my shots through, release, follow-thru, etc.

I do notice when I anchor to my face that I can feel the string loop "twist". This is because I rotate my hand to get my knuckle in my anchor point. Its like I'm not pulling directly behind the loop. Is that what you were referringto TFOX? Would this cause a noticeable nock left every shot?

I'm always going to anchor to my face though but a different release may help.

Not really but if the loop is too short,you could be torquing the string.


I am talking about actually getting in behind my jawbone and the release turns a little to the side and cuasing torque.


A prong style rest can fix some tuning problems like a little facial torque or spine issues because they can be adjusted out of center and guide the arrow longer yielding in better tears.Your fallaway can drop too early and provide no guidance.That is probably why the tear doesn't change is because you have no guidance and either are getting a little torque or your spine is off a little.

Well, I understand that a common misconception with dropaways is "the sooner it drops the better." I have set up this rest exactly as the directions have stated and I've called the Muzzy rep twice to make sure. Others have gotten this rest to work onthe sametype of bow, drawlength, etc.

I don't feel that my spine is off. I bought OT2 and checked but I could use a second opinion from someone (Dave, if you read this, help me out). 06 Bowtech Tribute 28" set at 65#. 27" GT 5575, 3 blazers, wrap, 100 gr tip.

I realize I can solve all my problems by putting the NAP back on but I would really love to get this rest firgured out and tuned. Especially since I paid $60 for it.Today, I said forget paper and was going to go by your method (Don't stop at walk-back tuning) but my bareshaft was always nock left. So I didn't even get to begin at walk-back.

I love the challenge but hate pulling my hair out.[:@]