I just bought a Hoyt Vulcan last week. Was shooting a 02 Cybertech, man what a difference. Couldn't be happier. Anyway, when the vector cam is at full draw on my bow (against the draw stop peg) the string on the bottom cam is against the flat edge with the small rubber button, but the string on the top cam is about 1/8 in from making contact against the flat edge with the rubber button. Is this out of time? A guy at a pro shop (different from where I bought it) said it is, and that most hoyts from the factory are. Thatmay alsoexplain why I'm only getting 68 lbs out of a 70 lb bow maxed out. Maxed out should be close to 72 lbs. Right? What do you guys think and how do I fix it?

This is pretty much the standard when setting up the Hoyt cam and a half systems (Cam and a Half, Spiral Cams, Zephyr cams, Vector cams, etc....)

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=207391

Use this procedure and your cams will be in perfect time.

Thanks Redline! My top cam is under rotated. I'll take it back tomarrow and have them fix it. I'm surprised they let it leave the shop like that. My confidence in them is a little shaken.

One quick note about the timing. I have always found my C.5 bows to shoot best when the top cam is slightly......very slightly overrotated. The cable should be settling fully into the channel on the top cam when the bottom peg is no more than 1/16" from contacting the cable.

If they are dead even it will not make too much of a difference, however if you are looking for that extra little bit of shootability then slight overrotation up top will work.

After getting the cams in time, you should use a version of the creep tuning procedure to get things perfect.

Sorry to bother you again. But, what is creep tuning?

Posted from an AT thread......

Creep or fine tuning the Hoyt Cam & ½
By Mike (Javi..) Cooper

It is a variation on the old stand by Creep tuning methods…
With the tiller set to even (limb bolts bottomed and backed out the same on both limbs to your shooting weight) Set the timing as close as you can by eye.
I like to start with my sight zeroed at 20 yards.
Using ½ or ¾ inch masking put a horizontal line on your 20 yard target.
Shoot 3 or 4 arrows aiming at the tape, be sure to draw only to the wall do not pull into the limbs. Only use your good shots; the bad ones don’t count.
This is where the Cam & ½ differs from the two cam bow in creep tuning. Since there is no real valley you can’t creep into it.
Now shoot 3 or 4 more arrows at the line, while drawing your bow hard into the cams (you’re over rotating the cams just a bit) this is what most people describe as the mushy felling on the cam & 1/2. Again use only your good shots.
If your bow is in perfect time all your shots will hit the line, and the mushy feeling will be almost unnoticeable. If the shots fired while pulling hard into the cams hit high, apply a ½ twist to the control cable.
If the shots fired while pulling hard into the cams hit low apply a ½ twist to the buss cable.

Repeat until all shots hit the tape….

If you want to tune it even closer; repeat at 30 or 40 yards….

One more note.

Most shops, even the good ones are not going to be nearly as anal retentive as we as the bow owners can be. Setting the timing perfectly takes time as well as many trips in and out of the bow press.

If you are really looking for a perfect tune, then the pro shop is not where you will find it. They will most likely get it close or good nuff' for hunting but it will be far from optimum. There are exceptions, but they tend to be far and few between.

If you truly have the "disease" then one of the best things you can do for yourself is get your own press and do your own work. Something like a Bowmaster press is generally pretty inexpensive, small and easy to work with. Couple that with the knowledge that you can get from forums like this and you can easily learn just about everything you need to know about setting up your own rig.