don't wase your time

Let's clear a few things up:
Aligning the broadheads with the fletching is unnecessary, but can't hurt.
Making them all orient the same isn't necessary either, but can't hurt.
Balancing them so that the tip of the head is in line with the center axis of the shaft IS necessary!

Well put Kodiak, thats what I tried to say earlier when I said tuning. Guess I should have been a littlemore specific.

Well put indeed! So, here is what I'm gathering. By the way, I'm new to the use of carbon arrows. Since the insert is most likely not glued in with hot melt, alignment of the broadhead with the fletching and each other is impossible. Even if the inserts were glued in with hot melt, one would risk damaging the arrow by heating it up to turn the insert. Right? As far as alignment of the broadhead with the center of the shaft. This is how I have accomplished that in the past. On a board I drove two nails in an x on the front and back of the board. The X's created a cradle of sorts for the arrow. On the board, in alignment with the arrow I made a mark. Then by inspection I could determine if the broadhead (a fixed two blade) was in alignment with the center of the shaft by lining the edge of the broadhead up with the mark, rotating the arrow 180 degrees and again inspecting the broadhead realtive to the mark on the board. If the broadhead was aligned in both positions I put it in the quiver. If not, a mark was made on a fletch and it was forever religated to the field tip pile. Primitive, yes. Effective, I dunno?

Sounds like you've got it, but before you relegate those unbalanced shafts to the field tip pile you might try them with a different head. You'd be surprised how bad they can be with one head and then you screw another one in and voila; perfection! It's weird...[&:]

Thanks man! Your responses are consise and to the point. I appreciate it!!

The aligning of the broadhead with the fletching probably got started with the traditional guys.They sometimes use the back edge of the broadhead as a sort of draw check. Just draw until the broadheat touches the bow hand finger and let it go.Byron Ferguson uses this technique. Obviously the back edge can't be sharp!

This is the only time that I have ever heard of a BH needing the blades to be oriented a certain way.

As passthrough pointed out, it is absolutely necessary that the BH be aligned with the axis of the shaft so that there is no wobble.

One thing to keep in mind before any of your arrows get dubbed field tip only. Get the A.S.D tool from G5, it costs about 30 bucks and can fix the majority of those wobble problems. I have one and its great.

A.S.D. from G5... I will check it out (I have never heard of one!). Thanks!!

they have been out for a little while, arrow squaring device is what it stands for. can use it on carbon or aluminum so you can do the arrows and inserts works real well.