Hoytail Hunter

Bear with my noobie bow terminology elliderut arse while I try to splain this..... Right now I have 3 brass nocks on my string as part of my nock point. 2 nocks are together, then there is an open spot for my arrow, followed by another nock on the bottom. The dilemma I think I'm having is that the arrow is pinched too hard when I come to full draw.The reason why I think this is because there's actually downward pressure on the arrow caused by the squeezeofthe nocks. Perhaps the space for nocking the arrow is tootight causing the excessive pinch?If at full draw, you push the arrow up away from the launcher, there's a definate pressure holding the arrow down onto the launcher. Do you see a problem here worth getting all concerned over?

Anyway, my proposal to resolve this is to get rid of the bottom most nock thus getting rid of the pinch at full draw. I can then replace that nock with a rubber stop or guide that installs right onto the string and can slide up and down. I will then nock the arrow between the 2 top nocks and the bottom rubber stop then clip my release below the rubber stop.My thinking is that this rubber guide will have give to it and will reduce the pinching of the arrow's nock at full draw.

Whadaya think?

Roskoe

I would recommend going to a pro archery shop and having them check the nock location for squareness with the rest. And get rid of at least two of those brass nocks. Are you using a string loop? They sure work well . . . .

SharpStickHunter

Leave one brass nock above the arrow and add a string loop. Tie a second nock point using serving material justbelow the nock, but above bottom of the loop to keep it from sliding up into the arrow.

When you pull on the loop, it pulls evenly both above and below the arrow and the brass nock and tied in nock point will keep the loop from sliding and pinching the nock.

Howler

Yip, just get rid of the brass nocks and learn how to tie on a loop and don't look back! The loop isn't hard to tie!

ijimmy

Many use a loop, it is the best setup for most. I shoot off the string , as you do , my setup is a rubber cusion below , the nock , a brass nockpoint above, and above that I tye in a serving nock .

Your setup is definatly causeing problems , I cant believe someone set up a bow that way . Something else you need to consider , and do is get new nocks for your arrows as , yours will be toast after the abuse they have been thru .
Hince the signature line

A properly tyed in nock needs no brass nockpoint , if your want a nockpoint with a loop for referance Id sugest a tyed in serving type

mobow

You are most likely correct in your assesment. You are pinching your nock, I would think. I have not one brass nock on my string, just a rope loop. Works flawlessly, however your eliminator button idea would work as well. 1 nock, and the eliminator button below. Should work.

Hoytail Hunter

The mention of the string loop has me thinking:

the way it is set up right now, the string doesn't sit squarely with the nock because of the angle created. Woundn't this cause some sort of disturbance to the flight of the arrow upon release? I'm imagining a string that's angled propelling the arrow -vs- with a string loop, the string isn't angled around the nock and probably provides a more even push on the arrow. Anyone see what I'm saying?

When I bought my Vectrix from this shop I questioned the set-up in my mind as well but figuredthey guyknew more than me so I didn't say anything. I'm really considering the string loop now but just don't like the idea of extending my draw length another3/4 inch. It's perfect, comfortable, and I have the anchor memorized in my head right now. The loop means I have to re-train my brain. hmmm... can a loop that just barely clears the nock so as to be short as possible be made?

Roskoe

You don't really extend your draw with a string loop - at least if you use a kisser button or anchor to the tip of your nose, as I do. You just change your anchor position to maybe a little further back on your jaw.

RIStrutStopper

Your solution is right on the money. The rubber "stop" is sold in archery shops and is called an eliminator button. I'd get rid of one of the top brass nocks too, leaving one brass nock and the eliminator button. Thats how my bow is set up and im shooting off the string.

TFOX

Which means you have extended your draw length.Your hand is further back giving you less strength and less back pressure from the bow to hold it stable AND when you move your anchor back,you may be overrotating the release hand elbow.You may even move off any solid anchor.


You will not lose 3/4" draw length,you will need to shorten it more like 3/8" to 1/2" if tied correctly,then you will have to adjust your anchor up SLIGHTLY to get the string back across the corner of your mouth and on the tip of your nose.


The eliminator button is probably your best bet because if I remember correctly,you don't have draw length adjustment on your cams.

Didn't you say they removed the stop pegs? If so,you could put the stop peg in the 65% letoff hole and put a short loop.Then get arelease that is designed for a loop and probably be in way better shape than you are now.


That shop should never have put the nocksets on like that,that will definately cause problems.