Washington Hunter

Well I was bored this afternoon and decided to throw something together and shoot my Allegiance through paper. I was stuck using newspaper, but it seemed to work fine.

I shot two sets of three arrows and got a consistant low/left tear.



This means I need to move my nock point down and my rest to the left, correct? I rarely paper tune my bows, but I figured I would go ahead and do it today, so I'm pretty much a novice at this.

MO_Bowhnter

Is it shooting good with no noticeable flight problems? If so, I wouldn't mess with it. The best tuning is to shoot some fixed blade heads and see if they group with your FT's.

slicksvt

I'm also new to this stuff, I'll try the paper thing tomorrow how far away should it be when you shoot at it?

TerryM

What happens when you do a walk back tune? Thats far more important.

Washington Hunter

I've already walk back tuned to 20. I get excellent groups.

Like I said, I only shot it through paper out of boredom and noticed the tear.

slicksvt

Whats a walk back tune, shoot and walk back?

OHbowhntr

Dan,
Walkback tune it to 50-60 yds, see which way the pattern goes, either like this: / or \ or | . If the walk back with a little distance to it is like this: " | " and not like either of the first two, leave the rest, if the walk-back goes one direction or the other, then move the rest, in the direction the arrows need to go to be on. This is what just got me into trouble with my bow, and I'm still fixing. I think I have everything back close to where it's supposed to be, but haven't had enough time to do a good walk-back. Plus since my big target is still more than half frozen, I'm afraid to shoot arrows into the "ICE" Block.

Slick,
Walk-back tuning is picking a point and zeroing your sites on it, then walking back 5-10yds and aiming exactly the same for that point, repeat walking back another 5-10 yds, and so on. I like to do mine @ 20yds, then walk back as far as 60yds, but as I do that @ 40yds, I use my 40yd pin on the same pt I aimed the 20yd pin at, and then use it back to 60yds. If you have a need to move the rest, then you go back to 15-20 yds, zero the site in, and start again, re-sighting after each rest adjustment.

TFOX

I would advise that after walk back tuning,to GROUP tune at the furthest distance you can shoot well and tweak the rest the rest of the way.This will tune it to you and find your sweet spot.It should still be onat allthe distances you shoot.If not,maybe the level is off.

If the spine is right,and the bow and shooteris in tune,for example,timing,the bow should shoot good paper,maybe not "perfect" but good.


There are many forms of tuning and I utilize many of them.

Creep
walk back
group
paper(is a method of checking tune and spine,as well as torque issues)
sometimes bare shaft through paper in the very beginning to check spine.

Washington Hunter

TFOX -

Can you explain creep tuning to me?

I've heard the term many times but have never had it explained to me. I understand that tuning as much and as many ways as I can will be the most beneficial, so I'd like to take advantage of any information you can offer.

Thanks.

TFOX

It is basically twisting your cables to get yourtiming so that you can shoot an arrow from the valley and have it impact the same as it does when shot off the wall.For those that like a softer wall,it is a necessity.I like to do it on my Cam 1/2.

This is left over from the 2 cam days.Most bows today,it isn't even possible.


ALLEGIANCE,not an issue.You aren't going to creep.