Hey all I was wondering does the accuracy vary per bow? I mean are there bow's that are more accurate than others and if so which is the Most accurate of all of them, Thanks

I may be crazy, but I think it is usually the person shooting it that determines the accuracy.

Mostly depends on if the components on the bow are setup properly andif the bow is not set up right it dont matter how good of a shooter you are

Thnaks fo rth einfo thast kinda what I thought it was just that the guy at the bow shot was tryna say that the $800 Hoyt out shoot any other Bow there was verses the $350 PSE I was eye balling, personally I liked the PSE of all the bows I have shot I was juts wondering if there was any truth to that or he was just rtyna sell em the most exspensive bow he had. Thanks for the info.
P.S I like you quoteBigpapascout about the common mistake, LOL

yep that is what he was trying to do sell you the most expensive bow in the store.
IMO I would go some place else to buy for the simple fact he was being dishonest with you

No bow is more accurate than another per say, just put them in a shooting machine and watch what happens. However there are certain designs and set ups that are more forgiving and easier to shoot.

Price has absolutely nothing to do with it! There are some low end hoyts and Reflex bows that will shoot just as well as the expensive target bows because the specs are the same or close. And in the right hands any of them will shoot well.

Remember some of the best indoor target shooting scores to date were shot with older style bows that were severely out of tune by todays standards. Form and release technique is much more important than the equipment you use.

Here is a good website for learning about the basics of bows.

http://www.huntersfriend.com/bowselection.htm

The general guidlines for a forgiving bow are usually these:

Normally the less reflex you have in a riser the better, or better yet look for a deflex riser. Good luck on that, because they are hard to find. Deflex risers are usually slower, but more forgiving. In most cases a more forgiving bow is going to be slower, not always though. Just remember, speed doesn't kill.

Here is the difference between deflex and reflex, look at the grips of the bows and the angle of the riser.

This is Dartons target bow, the Executive Vegas. It has a Deflexed riser. See how the grip is lined up almost straight with the ends of the limbs. It also has a longer Axle to Axle (ATA) and smoother drawing cams. This is not a speed bow by any means, but it shoots nice.


Now this is one of the short axle to axle hunting bows in dartons line up. Look at how the grip is set way back towards the archer, it does not line up with the limbs at all.


I guess I could have used hoyt bows now that I think of it, but oh well, this shows my point.

The Reflexed riser (the one that sits back toward the archer) is less forgiving because it promotes torque when you draw it. A true deflexed riser would actually have the grip forward of the limbs, the bow I showed is actually more like a nuetral grip, not a deflex design in my opinion.

Here is an easy explanation of what happens. When you pick up a bucket of water with the handle in the normal position the handle is deflexed and the bucket of water balances in your hand do to the weight of the water and the bucket. Try putting the handle down inside the bucket and picking it up. The balance point is all wrong and it will be very hard if not impossible to hold steady and lift up. This would be a reflexed design. That is an extreme example, but it shows the basic physics behind it. So a reflexed riser is easier to torque than a deflexed is. Thus making it less forgiving.

The up side is they can make a bow faster with a reflexed riser, and since speed sells, guess what all the new bow designs are.

Normally a longer Axle to Axle bow will be more forgiving to shoot as well. However I think this has a lot to with bow weight and riser length. The newer short limb bows with the long risers shoot just as well as the older long ATA bows, at least in my opinion. I own a bowtech that is 30 inches long and I shoot it just as well as my 35 inch bow. However the shorter bowtech has a much longer riser than the longer bow does, I think this helps.

Brace height can make a difference as well, normally you want to go with something around 7-8 inches of brace height. I personally don't think it makes a huge difference, but longer brace heights do give you more arm clearance.

I think a lot of it has to do with the size of the archer as well. Smaller archers tend to shoot short ATA bows or bows with lower brace heights well. I am pretty small, so maybe that is why it doesn't effect me as much.

Cam types can make a difference as well as let off. Smoother drawing low let off cams are usually thought to be more forgiving and accurate. I actually prefere higher let offs though. I think it depends on your shooting style actually.

The absolute positive most important thing is that your bow FITS YOU. Nothing else matters if the bow does not fit you. The draw length has to be correct and the draw weight has to be something you can draw comfortably. You could have the most forgiving bow on the market and if it draws too long and you have too much draw weight you are screwed pretty much.

Another thing about ATA, longer draw archers have trouble with them because of the extreme angle the string is at full draw. Shorter draw archers don't notice as much. My personal opinion is if you are anywhere near 6 feet tall and have more than 27 inches of draw length you should be shooting at least a 35 inch long bow, not a 29-31 inch bow. Just my opinion though and nothing more.

Good luck,
Paul

I can't add a whole lot to what these guys have said. You just can't argue a whole lot iwth physics.

I, too, think I would shop else where. You have shot a few bows so have a general idea of what fits your person and your wallet--both serious considerations. Another thing that enters into the picture is just how you feel about your choice. You have to feel that you've gotten the best bang for your buck. Confidence in your equipment is paramount to shooting it well.

You also have to determine for yourself what you intend to use the bow for. If it's mainly for hunting and some occasional 3D shooting then ther just isn't much reason to spend a lot of money on a high priced bow. Instead of $800 on a bow I normally advise guys to buy a $350 or $400 bow and spend a little more on higher end rest, sights and other accessories, and of course better arrows. Especially arrows.

Before you buy see if you can shoot a Martin Bengal with the M-Pro cam.

Good luck.

Thnaks again for the info guys that was deffinatly a big help, I am deffinatly going to a different bow shop thats for sure, thanks paul that was some very interesting info I never would have thought about looking at itin that aspect. and that was a pretty informative site also. I will most certainly be more in tune with a bow that shootsverses being persueded by a sales pitch and a price tag. Thanks again everyone
John

If you are interested in Hoyts, look at the Reflex line. They are basically all the hoyt models from previous years and they tend to be a bit cheaper (price wise, not quality).

And bowtech does the same thing with the Diamond line.

Paul

It's mostly the shooter. A crappy shot with a good bow still won't shoot good but it will help. I don't know of too many bows that wouldn't shoot perfect out of a machine. Again, it's the shooter and normally not the bow. I've got a cheap Browning rage One and can outshoot a lot of people with bows costing twice as much.