Oh yeah,yes, maximum ,or near maximum efficiency will be achieved when the arrow is flying straight.


As long as an arrow is recovering quickly and not hitting the target at an angle,maximum is not a necessity for most setups today.

Todd:

Please do me a favor and define the word "centershot" as you use it. There may be a difference of how we use that word that is causing me some confusion.[:@]

Thanks.

Dave:

Thank you for those kind words. [&o]

What kind of target are you using. I would suggest paying no attention to how the arrows are in the target after they hit. They can shift as they enter the target depending on the medium. You need a very consistant medium to be able to this. Arrows will move a lot in a bag target after they hit it, so don't judge it by that. The best way to know what your arrow was doing at that distance is move the paper, or you so the arrow goes through the paper at that distance.

Paul

I quess I would describe it as the power path of the string.

How would you describe it?



There are too many that try and use arrows that are underspined or are severely torquing a bow and have to set their rest way outside to get that bullethole.

There is always a certain amount of torque.(This is the biggest argument for having a cable guard instead of a shoot through.)I am not arguing for or against a shoot through system but this is the main argument for a cable guard.

This is where group tuning and the walk back method come into play.I personally didn't have to make a rest adjustment when I group tuned myProtec after it was on a shooting machine.No I am not a machine but deflex risers are nice.It shot great paper also.



This is where I say don't compromise centershot to achieve a bullethole.Fix the problem instead of putting bandaids on it.Your accuracy suffers with this type of bandaid.[:-]


I realize that with some bows,there isn't much that can be done to achieve both.Riser designs,nock travel,along with cam lean all can make it difficult.I personally will play with spine anda fewother tricks to get the bow as close to centershot as possible.If I owned a bow that just wouldn't tune to centershot,I would not shoot it for long.

I need to add that the powerpath of the string should be the same as the cam and that would be centershot.


The string and cam can actually be pointed in different directions due to a variety of reasons and that is a compromised centershot.

Quote:

The string and cam can actually be pointed in different directions due to a variety of reasons and that is a compromised centershot.

OK, now I can see where we can come together on this issue. But first, let me explain why this subject can be irritating. I see so many times on many forums someone asking where the 'centershot' is located on their bow (according to the manufacturer). Someone will specify it as 15/16 or 3/4 or whatever in inches. They won't give a tolerance which is necessary in something as complex and dynamic as a bow. I often envision some unknowing newbie setting his arrow off the riser at a very specific dimension and then trying desperately to tune it.

With some bows which tend to hold tight tolerances, a specific number is sometimes attainable; but, tolerances are regretfully necessary. You call it a "compromised centershot." I call it reality.

And to complicate matters more, the older a bow gets through constant wear, the reality of loose tolerances will prevail moreso.

Thank you for clarifying your interpretation of centershot. I trust you now understand my attitude towards the subject. While you may look at it as more of an attainable absolute, due to the variety and number of bows I see each year, I look at it as a starting point number that may have to be adjusted/compromised for a multitude of reasons.

I'm using a layered foam target by The Block.
Again, I was mostly concerned with the spine of my arrows being the problem because I cut them down so much. (27") But I have always wondered about the split limb design of the Reflex. Even before choosing Reflex as my first split limb, I had read and heard of the limbs "twisting" under fire. (?)

My arrows are still tearing tail-right and hitting target at an angle. What are they doing at 10 - 20 - 30 yards? Got to be fish tailing which has to reduce kinetic energy and reduce speeds and such. I've done distance paper and all indications are they do straighten out after a few yards, but I'm still not happy knowing they are all over the place before that.

Torquing is probably the biggest issue . . . work in progress . . .

Don't worry about the limbs,they are fine.


If I remember correctly you can not adjust the Reflex slam 1/2 cam in 1/2" increments so you are either set at 28" or 29"

If you are set at 28",your arrows are perfect according to my program and if you are at 29" you are still ok but SLIGHTLY weak. 66#'s would put you perfect on spine at 29" draw.


I am guessing torque, and you can try different grips and try shooting without your face touching the string,just to check and see if you are putting too much pressure on the string.


The Reflex is a nice bow but the large grip area is hard for some not to torque.

Todd, you're not going to like this, but here it is. Some of the earlier Reflex bows were 1" off in their draw length. In other words, if you set it for 28", you were actually at 29". This is not uncommon for a lot of the other manufacturers as well.

This is why I designed a tool for checking draw length that will be marketed by Apple Archery this year. I've used the tool for about 6 years and decided that it was something that other Dealers around the country could use. It also allows you to check/set as many as nine other bow functions.

Therefore, if you're setting your program for 28", you're possibly one inch off on your data entry. Try plugging 29" into your program and see if the spine is still acceptable.

I did,keep reading my post.


The program I use only shows the bow was made in 2005 and 2006. Do youknow if they had the issue resolved by 05 or not.


You may be right about the draw,I personally have never checked one.