I need to know which saw blade I need to get in order to shorten some arrows....any suggestions would be great. Got an arrow fletcher this year and now want to know how to shorten arrows....thanks all.

vashadow

welll any ole hacksaw will work on alumanums i heard. course you gotta keep it square somehow....carbon should only be cut with a high speed saw..otherwise it will splinter to beans....either way keeping it square and 90degrees would be a tricky job with a hand saw.....if were talkin handsaws???

lol Mauser! Of course I am talking about a high speed saw I will be shortening my carbon arrows. Do I need a special saw only for carbon arrows or will any high speed saw blade as long as it is 90 degrees work?

vashadow

Pretty sure any high speed blade will suffice. I'm not sure what blade is on ours at the shop, but we cut both aluminum and carbon with ours....

Of course, I am assuming you will be using an arrow saw and not some sort of chop saw.......Right????

you definately need the right type of cutting dick for carbons other wise they will splinter and have a bad finished cut

Lancaster archery supply will definately have what you need.

I will warn you to be careful and order a couple of extra because they are very easily broken and can be broken installing them on the saw motor
but once they are on they will last quite a while
they are so delicate I dont understand how they dont explode from the high RPM from the motor.

I've cut many graphite golf clubs and carbon arrows with a bandsaw and/or a fine hacksaw. First, wrap the area to be cutwith 2 or 3 turns of masking tape, mark the cut with a sharpie, make the cut and square up on a disc sander. No problem with splintering. Just don't use a pipe cutter....

I use a Dremmal [sp?] tool with the high speed cutoff discs. This works great as long as you keep it at 90 deg.

I use a power miter saw with a thin curf 60 or 80 tooth carbide. I set the shaft in a cradle made from a piece of hard wood (just a piece of 1"x1" with the corner cutout so it looks like an L). Set the shaft in the cut out and cut both. Clean and square. You can setup up a stop if you have to to make sure they are all exactly the same length, but I have no problem doing it with out besides I pull the shaft away before letting the blade come back up to prevent the blade from touching the shaft again. You can also use a 7 1/4 40T thin curf blade and lift the block up. I use all fraud blades. The 7 1/4 blades are less than 20 bucks and cut very smooth. The others are much more and not needed unless you need them. The blades that come with the saw won't work, to rough a cut. You won't loose any money buying a good one.

You can then use the saw around the house or in my case to make a living. There's no reason those shaft saws should cost so much.

Save yourself any hassle and just buy a regular arrow saw . They come with a blade that will lasts for years . I have had mine for over ten years and still on the first blade.

I use a Dremel and then square the ends with a G5 ASD tool.Works pretty good for me.