Do new bows require a "break in"
#1
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 357
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From: mississippi by way of Florida
Hey guys,
I have had my new Switchback for about a week now. Really like the bow, shoots very nice. Very tight groups.
Basic bow is a Switchback XT, 70# with 28 inch pull. Copper John sights and peepless rear sight.
After a couple of years with a used bow, I decided I liked archery enuff to invest in a good bow, so here I am.
My question is this, do new bows need time to "settle" or "break in"?
Also, does heat and humidity affect bows significantly?
Reason I ask is that my point of impact seems to be shifting 4 to 6 inches at 20 yards almost every other day. Still shoots very tight groups, but have to change the sights about every other day. I shoot the bow a good bit, 25 to 50 shots a day. Once I change the sights, a copper john 3 pin, it is good to go on all three pins for 20, 30 and 40 yards for the rest of the day.
Thanks for any advice.
Hank
I have had my new Switchback for about a week now. Really like the bow, shoots very nice. Very tight groups.
Basic bow is a Switchback XT, 70# with 28 inch pull. Copper John sights and peepless rear sight.
After a couple of years with a used bow, I decided I liked archery enuff to invest in a good bow, so here I am.
My question is this, do new bows need time to "settle" or "break in"?
Also, does heat and humidity affect bows significantly?
Reason I ask is that my point of impact seems to be shifting 4 to 6 inches at 20 yards almost every other day. Still shoots very tight groups, but have to change the sights about every other day. I shoot the bow a good bit, 25 to 50 shots a day. Once I change the sights, a copper john 3 pin, it is good to go on all three pins for 20, 30 and 40 yards for the rest of the day.
Thanks for any advice.
Hank
#3
The only thing requires what I'd call a break-in period is the rigging (string and cables). The rest of the bow is good to go. I assume you have factory rigging on it. From past experience and posts (search) the rigging on Mathews and many others is hit-or-miss. They may settle in (creep) in about a hundred shots or so or they may creep for a long time, constantly changing. However, it's usually a gradual process and not likely to change that much day to day.
Probably what you are experiencing is just a different bow with a different feel that you're not quite consistent with yet.Make sure you don't grip the bow tightly as this can cause torque which changes the point of impact. Keep a real close eye on the draw length for string creep. Easiest way to do this is to mark the side of the cam between the limb tips. Then take measurements of the axle-to-axle length and brace height. Check these periodically to see if they change.
Best bet is, sooner or later, get a good set of aftermarket strings on the bow and things won't be apt to change much after about 50 shots.
Probably what you are experiencing is just a different bow with a different feel that you're not quite consistent with yet.Make sure you don't grip the bow tightly as this can cause torque which changes the point of impact. Keep a real close eye on the draw length for string creep. Easiest way to do this is to mark the side of the cam between the limb tips. Then take measurements of the axle-to-axle length and brace height. Check these periodically to see if they change.
Best bet is, sooner or later, get a good set of aftermarket strings on the bow and things won't be apt to change much after about 50 shots.
#5
The others are correct but 4"-6" @ 20 yards will most likely be shooter error.Anchor point would be my first QUESS.
Next thing could be something wrong but if groups are still tight,that takes me back to anchor.
You haven't developed muscle memory and each day is different but you are able to repeat when your shooting but not from day to day.
Next thing could be something wrong but if groups are still tight,that takes me back to anchor.
You haven't developed muscle memory and each day is different but you are able to repeat when your shooting but not from day to day.
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