Broadhead flight problems.
#1
Broadhead flight problems.
I was out shooting today, and decided to test the broadheads a little bit (I know I should have done this earlier as our season starts at the end of september), and they are flying extremely erratic. My field points are flying great (75 grain), but when I shoot with wasp 3-blade 100gr's, my arrow hits about 4inches low and 4-5 inches to the left and comes out fishtailing to the left (it's very noticeable when watching in my follow through). I know this is most likely a tuning issue, but where do I begin? My form is the same for the field points as it is for the broadheads, my grip change isn't doing anything, I've even tried switching the broadheads onto other arrows to make sure it wasn't an arrow issue. Well anyways here's what I'm shooting:
Jennings Buckmaster 2000 68# 30"
Easton XX75 2117 w/Wasp 100gr 3-blade
Cheapo two-prong rest
Standard Tube peep
Savage Pendulum
Cobra Release
Any help or insight would be helpful
Jennings Buckmaster 2000 68# 30"
Easton XX75 2117 w/Wasp 100gr 3-blade
Cheapo two-prong rest
Standard Tube peep
Savage Pendulum
Cobra Release
Any help or insight would be helpful
#2
RE: Broadhead flight problems.
First get some 100 grain field tips and start over. Sight em in and then come back & let us know what's happening. It's tough learning all the little things in archery, but that's where I would start on this problem.
#4
RE: Broadhead flight problems.
I had those problems with mine, I went with a heavier arrow and
resighted. For me that solved the problem and I practice with
the broadheads prior to hunting each year, as the broadheads
appear to fly different.
resighted. For me that solved the problem and I practice with
the broadheads prior to hunting each year, as the broadheads
appear to fly different.
#5
RE: Broadhead flight problems.
You are seriously underspined , nothing will help untill you switch to a much stiffer arrow , then begin to tune .
Another mistake , useing feild tips that are slightly heavyer than broadheads may be to some advantage , but the other way around ," broadheads heavery than feild tips " , is just asking for problems
Another mistake , useing feild tips that are slightly heavyer than broadheads may be to some advantage , but the other way around ," broadheads heavery than feild tips " , is just asking for problems
#6
RE: Broadhead flight problems.
I always use the same weight BHs as FPs.
Never occurred to me to try anything else.
Swap some points (I'd change the FP since they're cheaper), and try again. If the spine is indeed weak, you'll need to stay with the lighter points all the way around, so check that first.
Once you have the same point weights, follow the Easton tuning guide for bareshaft tuning. Then, once you've got that dialed in, check that all of your BHs spin true on their shafts, tune for broadheads, and you're done.
There is still time to get it all adjusted. Just start now since you may end up getting a curve ball thrown at you, like needing to start over with new arrows, having the local shop be out of stock on the points you need, or finding out that there is a big backlog for fletching yourshafts if you don't do them yourself.
I try to get my new equipment as Chrismas gifts so that I can start making changes right after deer season. That way I'm ready for 3-D before bowfishing starts in the Spring. It's also easier and less frustrating to make your adjustments on the range when the weather isn't 95 degreesand humid.
Never occurred to me to try anything else.
Swap some points (I'd change the FP since they're cheaper), and try again. If the spine is indeed weak, you'll need to stay with the lighter points all the way around, so check that first.
Once you have the same point weights, follow the Easton tuning guide for bareshaft tuning. Then, once you've got that dialed in, check that all of your BHs spin true on their shafts, tune for broadheads, and you're done.
There is still time to get it all adjusted. Just start now since you may end up getting a curve ball thrown at you, like needing to start over with new arrows, having the local shop be out of stock on the points you need, or finding out that there is a big backlog for fletching yourshafts if you don't do them yourself.
I try to get my new equipment as Chrismas gifts so that I can start making changes right after deer season. That way I'm ready for 3-D before bowfishing starts in the Spring. It's also easier and less frustrating to make your adjustments on the range when the weather isn't 95 degreesand humid.
#7
RE: Broadhead flight problems.
Ok, so I went out and shot some 100gr FP, and although my shots weren't as wild as with the broadheads, they certainly weren't grouping well. Now, question is...since it seems (from the responses here) that I have to weak of a spine for the broadhead, would it be better to get some 75gr broadheads, or re-site the bow with the 100gr FP, and see how the 100gr broadheads do after that? Thanks again for everyone's responses.
#9
RE: Broadhead flight problems.
ORIGINAL: jerseyhunter
get the 75 gr heads. If you just adjust your sight for the 100's you'll still be underspined. Better yet get new arrows if you can afford it.
get the 75 gr heads. If you just adjust your sight for the 100's you'll still be underspined. Better yet get new arrows if you can afford it.
#10
RE: Broadhead flight problems.
so wouldn't an arrow like this with a 75gr be sufficient?
Yes, I was under the impression you wanted to keep the 100 gr broadheads you had, but it is cheaper to get new heads rather than arrows. You can also take a few pounds off the bow (should help) than you wouldn't need anything new.JMO
Don't buy everything new. Keep That Savage Pendulum
Yes, I was under the impression you wanted to keep the 100 gr broadheads you had, but it is cheaper to get new heads rather than arrows. You can also take a few pounds off the bow (should help) than you wouldn't need anything new.JMO
Don't buy everything new. Keep That Savage Pendulum