Itried to tune my bow last night, I am tearing a 1/2 right tear and can't get it out! I have moved the rest with little change. I am shooting a tiger tough 3 prong rest. A drop away won't clear my fletch upon drawing the bow, so it isn't really a option. I am shooting a Hoyt Raptor with a built back risor, my brace hight is limited. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks

i had the same problem except mine was tearing left, it turned out to be my grip I must have been tourqing the bow. I made sure that the vanes were clearing and changed how I grip the bow and it shot fine.

It is either fletching clearance problems, wrong arrow selection, or your grip. Have a few other people shoot through paper and see what happens. If no change, borrow some different arrows and shoot it.

My first suspect with a right tear for a rh shooter is fletch contact, the second is hand torque. Loosen your grip on the bow and pull through the shot in a straight line with the arrow shaft (not away from your face).

I wouldn't mess with a half inch tear. But chances are if you can't get rid of it it you either have grip issues or a spine issue. In my opinion fletch contact should be ruled out before you even run an arrow thru the paper, but I would check for that too.

I would adjust the rest back to where it sarts to get worse, then move it back to where you just start to get the half inch tear. Then continue on to the next type of tuning you want to do, walk back tuning, bare shaft tuning or broad head tuning. These will tell you more. Don't kill yourself trying to paper tune when you will probably be moving the rest again anyway.

Paul

The last Hoyt Raptor I tried to tune did the same thing.It was a bow issue and there was really not much that could be done to the bow.If it really bothers you that much,start playing with different spined arrows(than what the charts say),a lighter spined arrow might help.But whatever you do,maintain true centershot.Better to have a little tear and true center shot than to have bullet holes and and centershot off one way or the other.



Like others have stated,1/2" really isn't that big a deal(unless it gets worse as you move back)and it might be hand torque so try a few different grips to see what happens but don't get overly concerned.


I like paper tuning but you must really understand what can be going on and what is going on when doing it.

If you are a right hand shooter it may be a weak arrow. Try a lighter tip or reduce the draw weight by one turn and see if this makes a difference on impact. If so you will need to purchase lighter broadheads, keep the bow at a reduced weight or purchase arrows one step up on the chart if you like the draw weight you now are shooting.

not sure what type of yoke is on that bow. if its floating your only options are to tie it off and make adjustments, or play with spine. i've seen this before, where 1 side of the yoke needs a few twists to get the string coming off straight at full draw - and that cleared the paper tuning up.

i've also spent 3 hours trying to paper tune a bow with a couple bad arrows - and i'm lucky i still have any hair.

Well I guess I should have given more info....I can tell you its not the grip & its not clearance issues. I am shooting a CX-300 with 85 grain points, At 68lbs. I think I am going to try a cx-400 of my dads & see what happens.

I read an arcticle that said a heavier tip will make a right hand shooter tear more of a left hole????

I have had this bow for a few years & never really ben happy with broadheads. I began shooting NAP Spitfire's 85 gr. They fly great but penatration is a real isssue. I am planning to elk hunt next year & I will not be shooting mechincals for elk.
Thanks Jason

Are you positive its not the grip? I had a right tear last night when I was paper tuning and it ended up being my grip. I actually was getting great tears while holding the bow with my entire hand. I don't shoot this way normally but it was just an experiment. I also learned that the level on my sight isa big factor when wanting to shoot perfect bullet holes.