gibblet

funny, you had him set his vertical first, and then told him not to.

also, there's a little something you're missing with that super tuning method rogeryenn.

first set your bow up with your 20 pin to hit exactly what you're aiming at.

then do the vertical line test - however - shoot an arrow at 20 yards using your 20 pin at a dot near the top of the target, then 25 yards using your 20 pin aiming at the same dot, then 30 yds using your 20 pin at the same dot - all the way back out to 40 yds.

your arrows should all fall directly below the dot you were aiming at - in a straight line. if they are off left - move your rest a bit to the right and start over - or vice versa and start over. when you've got that squared away - move on to the horizintal line test. when you've got that squared away go back and re-check the vertical test until you can run them both just right - or to the best of your ability. anyway, hate to correct you rog, or maybe i misunderstood your directions, but the above is correct.

TFOX

Make sure your paper tuning is done at several different distances from the paper.I like to be at a couple feet,6' and about 20'.



Sometime you can get your arrow nock low and it will kick up off the rest and give you a good paper tear close but when you back up,it will show a nock high tear.


Paper can be helpfull but only if you understand what can and does happen with it.



Another thing that can cause what you are seeing is a spine issue.A really stiff arrow will sometime need to be nock low to get a good tear.



These are NOT diagnoses but mearly more things to check and consider.



I am one of those that likes to havebroadheads hitting withmy fieldpoints.I feel that when everything is correct.SPINE,tune,FORM.they will hit the same.This will also allow you to do the majority of your practice with your field points instead of having to constantly resharpen broadheads and tear up targets and arrows.This being said,I still choose to use Rocket expandables.I can shoot my broadheads on my arrows with 3" feathers and impact with fieldpoints but there is no denying the forgiveness advantage of field tips and expandables over fixed broadheads.[:-]

TradTech

Not to start a wee - wee match with you gibblet, but I didn't suggest starting with a vertical.

I never mentioned anything about shooting past 20 yds.

Simply suggested shooting 20.

You're assumption is incorrect.

Not a super tune, just wanted to help the guy with a few basics.

gibblet

hey, its cool, but you did. shooting at a horizontal line across your target is one way to set your nock pt/rest height, and that adjusts your vertical - and that's exactly what you suggested he do first after sighting in at 20 - then you told him not to do vertical first. walk back tuning is what you were trying to describe to him with the vertical line - which gives you left right adjustments - but you have to 'walk back' to do it while using your 20 yard pin the whole time, and aiming at the same dot at the top of the line the whole time. i know you're trying to help the fellow, and i'm trying to help both of you. i hope you can see that. if that makes me holier, ok.

i do realize the situation can be handled from 20 yards using your 40 and 50 yard pins, but there were no directions for that, and its simpler to just walk back and keep using your 20 pin.

anyway, your new, and i wasn't trying to start anything - just some good, easy,tuning advice.

TradTech

gibblet - By first setting your nock set to shoot correctly on the horizontal line will aid trememdously with the effect of shooting the vertical line. It makes sense that if the nock is too high or low it will have an adverse effect on how the arrow comes off the rest compounding reactions. Not to say that a rest too far left or right can also have an adverse effect, which it does, but with the nock set correctly positioned you'll eliminateone false negativeso you don't assume that you're dealing with two reactions when you can slim it down to one. It makes tuning a bit easier. With a nock set in an incorrect location you can move the rest all over the place and still not get the arrow off the rest the way it should.

Hence, get the nock set positioned correctly to begin with and you'll be closer to the end result of group/walk back tuning in shorter order.

I'm not saying that additional adjustments to the nock set won't need to be made as you move back. It's just a starting point. Many bowhunters haven't been acquainted with group and walk back tuning. 20 yds is a good starting point. If they want to persue the finer tuning out to 40 they will, and some won't.

Didn't mean to step on your toes.

TradTech

gibblet - lol.

When I speak of a horizontal line (l-r) going across the face of the target. By shooting that line and getting the poi to hit consistantly you will adjust the nock set.

Vertical line (up and down) on the face of the target. By shooting that line and getting the poi to hit consistantly, you will adjust the rest either left or right.

By physically marking a line gives the shooter something a bit more visual to shoot at.

By shooting the dot and walking back using only a 20 yd pin is basicly the same regarding the vertical line.

slee

Simmer down fellas! I appreciate the info. I've been at bow hunting/shooting for nearly 20 years, so I know what each of you meant...and I've done the "walk back" method already. I paper tune to get everything close, but that's about all I depend on paper for. I've already done that. The only concern I had was that as I'm getting my groups to tighten up, my angle of the arrow sitting on the rest is noticably pointing up. Now this is not a problem for me per say, but I would like to know if there is something I can do to change this appearance while tightening my groups that I haven't tried yet. I think tiller will be the 1st place I start.

Since all of this has come up, I found a crack in my bottom limb, and am waiting on Bowtech to send replacement limbs. I should get a day or 2 on the range to get everything zeroed in, but the issue described may have to wait until I return from Idaho later in the month. Like I said earlier, I'm hitting where I'm aiming. I appreciate all the help though. Let's just all play nice in the process.

gibblet

who me? i'm playing very nice. you won't see me getting upset over tuning stuff. i really only get upset when someone who doesn't know anything about equipment thinks that what they have is the best- just because they have it-and are steering others towards buying it - when i know the product stinks. generally these folks have never even used a different, um, arrow-rest for example, have only been shooting a bow for a week, and have become an expert on what others should buy. that kind of thing gets under my skin - talking others in to wasting money. rog is obviously trying to help a fellow archer - all that does is make me feel good.

oh, and you should do your left and right adjustments on your rest first (in my opinion). who cares if the arrow is coming off nose down if its bouncing off the right side of the arrow rest. i don't see how you can set your nock pt without center shot being set - but either way, if you keep at it you'll get there.

JOE PA

Slee: Did you mention what rest you are using? I must have missed it if you did. I only ask because I have had a much easier time tuning Bowtech Infinity cam bows with a shoot through rest vs. a drop away or WB.

slee

Well Joe, I'll try to explain without getting too irritated about the whole rest thing. I am shooting a Golden Key TKO drop away, except that I could never get the rest cord to stay out of the way of my fletching, so I made it a fixed-position shoot through like I always have shot in the past. If anyone wants to get my feedback on Golden Key's lack of customer service or how none of the suggestions I got from the nice folks on here worked for this rest on my bow, I'll be happy to PM you back. As a fixed position rest, it's a great rest that's easy to adjust. So a long answer to a short question. Sorry.