OK, The only dumb question is the one not asked.
I would like to hear from some arrow builders on how you fletch your arrows for broadheads. I am using 100 grain 3 blade muzzies and blazer vanes. Do you need to align your vanes with the broadhead blades or not? Also, is it common to shoot cock vane at an angle instead of straight up on a drop away. A TR drop zone in particular.

Thanks Guys, LT

No, you absolutely do not have to align your fletch with the blades of your broadhead. Using fixed blade heads with your Blazers I'd suggest an offset to optimize spin and stabilization.

On my drop rest, a Trophy Taker pronghorn I actually shoot with cock vane out...when up I have vane contact on my cables and Blazers ares stiff, in time I believe it will cut my cable.

One thing about drop away rests, you don't need to worry about how you shoot your vanes as long as clearances are not an issue.

Thanks Rob. I am putting a right helical on these blazers. I kinda figured out using a little nock tuning that the cock works better out than up. With it up, I was getting errant flight(usually low). Also, I had a question about the glue issue. I'm using fletch tite andhaving a hard time getting just the right amount without pressing it out from under the fletch with my jig. Does this little bit of glue have any effect on arrow flight?

Thanks, LT

I use blazers as well, with Stinger heads. Lining them up with the vanes is moot, however I have noticed that if the blades of the Stinger are lined up with the bow string it makes some difference. I have absolutely NO idea why.....

After the vane is pressed on I just run my finger down the edge to smooth out that excess glue. It doesn't hurt anything to have some squeeze out the sides but try not to make it excessive. I line my blades up with the fletching but it's just so they index better in my quiver so I can grab one and nock it without looking at it. Otherwise I don't think it matters a hoot.

I use 4" feathers, straight, and I dont worry about lining up with blades. Do the arrows then attach blades, no trouble with them! [8D]

You should not have to align the blades with the fletching. Whether shooting with a drop away or Whisker Biscuit, I have been fletching vanes (first Blazers, then Vanetecs) with the max helical I can apply. No doubt feathers give you even more control, but I have been pleased with broadhead accuracy out to 40 yards with my setup. I usually use Bohning Quantum, which is a "superglue" type. Superglues seem to bond two surfaces together quickly, yet the excess is still liquid when the vanes are bonded. You can then wipe the excess away. I try to use as little as possible, but still get a little squeeze out if I use enough to get a good bond. With feathers, I use Fletch tite or Saunders NPV.

The reason your Stingers shoot better lined up with the string is that the main flex of a release-shot arrow is up and down. I still recall (with chagrin) the time I thought I had my bow tuned well. I was shooting Bear Razorhead lites, without the bleeders in. At 30 yards, I could pretty much pick a specific spot on my Aim-Right deer target and hit exactly there with the Razorheads or field points. The Razorheads were lined up vertically (with the string) A few days before the season started, I decided to sacrifice a few of the fragile bleeders just to make sure they shot the same with the bleeders in. The arrow dove down and hit the deer target in the front leg! Took the bleeder out and spot on. Put another bleeder in, under the belly! Had to do a little last minute scrambling that year. I made sure that didn't happen again, and that I was absolutely sure of my setup well before the season started.