My friend got his Switchback XT last week, when shooting the bow from 30 yards and out he is having problems. He paper tuned the bow with a bare shaft and got a left tear. He went to the Mathews Forum, and noticed others having this problem, but there was a solution to fix this problem, so he did what was said to do, and all seemed excellent, this was 2 days ago. Tonight after work, he went shooting it, and once more the problem came back. So any of you Switchback XT owners having any problems like this? I hope I don't my Switchback XT should be ready early next week

I was getting a nock left tear on my paper tuning so what i did was first look at the timing holes. They weren't even close to being parallel to the string, so I shortened the cable by putting twists in it. I got it better, but not perfect. I stopped at the point of ata = 30 7/8".

From there, I drew the bow back with my release and had someone put a straight edge along side the idler wheel ( at the top ) and noticed how the string was tracking off the wheel. Mine wasnt coming striaght off, so I twisted the side of the yoke that I needed to twist and got it perfect. I then shot through paper and bammmmm perfect holes. Hope this helped.

A guy from mathews stated that getting the string to track off the idler wheel at full draw was the most important thing to do and that it compensates for hand torque. He was right on the money in my case.

The majority of left tears with the switchbacks are do to hand torque. Make sure when you are checking the timing on the cam that you do it with the bow maxed out. All spec measurements are to be done with the limb screws fully tightened down.

i don't buy the hand torque argument 1 bit. i do work for some accomplished shooters that haven't been able to tune their xt's yet, though they love them so much they shoot them anyway.

My string Suppresors are wearing a little fast

Great...but that doesn't mean they aren't torquing there bow hand. I've done work on many Switchbacks and have gotten everyone to tune bare shaft bullet holes through paperat varying distances...I usually finish it up with walk back tuning to be sure they are spot on downrange. The switchback is fussy when it comes to bow hand position. I too had to change the way I held....since doing so I have never shot better.

Don't get me wrong...there are other things that need to be addressed when tuning. But tuning the bow to your hand torque is futile.

well i agree with that.

hmm, bareshaft papertuning, interesting. i know guys who do it but i swear they are distinctly different tuning methods.

what makes you sure you aren't introducing torque to control the tear?

That seems more common with their thick handles....try taking them off and have them shoot the bow to rule out torque.

They are tunable. Yoke tune that baby to get rid of the tear. It compensates for hand torque which we all have. I have done it twice, because I changed my grip. Make sure the string is coming off the idler wheel straight at full draw and if it isn't , twist the yoke side that has to be pulled in... it works..........Good Bow.