I wouldn't go below 60 with it. The bow wouldn't have the proper amount of tension on the string and cables, so your performance would suck and the bow would be noisy. Just bite the bullet and buy the 340's. Find someone shooting 55 or lesspounds to sell the 400's to. Or maybe a trad shooter would take 'em off your hands.

If you're concerned about string/cable break-in, then measure your brace height and axle to axle length. If brace height is more than 1/2" lower than what the specs call for, or axle to axle length is more than an inch longer than spec, then the string/cables need to be twisted up and adjusted.

If you're using stock Hoyt/Reflex string and cables, I can practically guarantee they need adjustment. They are the worst!Put some aftermarket rigging on the bow, ASAP.

And get a different rest. I personally don't like the WB, just because if you have one flaw in your grip, stance, anything, that rest will do nothing but magnify the problem.

I resently put a new mechanical arrow rest and quiver on my old fred bear compound. I also replaced my sights last year. before I replaced my rest I was shooting close to dead on. Now with my new rest im sceptical of the first shot, ive lost plenty of arrows sighting in the past. I was wanting to get some pointers on what at home "tunings" i can do to minimize the chance of losing a $50 set of arrows.

I'll probably start a new thread for this question . . . but given my rig, what arrows would y'all recommend?

Before I spent oney on anyhing,I would check the arrows at 60#'s.That is what the chart I have from Easton says you need.At that point,if the spine is the problem,then the 340's would be fine at 65#'s.


Arthur is right about the strings and cables,good chance they need to be adjusted and may be the source of the problem.

I dropped it to right at 60# and shot it this morning after centering it. Still tore a lot to the right. Shot a few at 20 yds and was O.K. Not like it was.

A quick way to solve your problem is to trash the paper and bare shaft tune.

Does your bow have a floating yoke or a twisted yoke in it. I recently helped a guy get his bow back in tune, and he has the twisted instead of the floating yoke, There was too much pressure on one limb and actually was tilting his cam. He swore it was a problem with the spine, but now he can stack arrows all day long. Just a thought.............

if your shooting through paper a 20 yards and beyond, you should have a bullet hole every time because the arrow should have stabilized by then.

when you say all over the target does that mean the arrows are impacting at random places from where you are aiming????

I paper tune from 3 feet to 15 feet from the target. that tells me how the arrow is coming off of my bow. I like to see a decent tear at those ranges. it doesn't have to be a perfect bullet hole as it is a starting point for other tests.

sounds to me like your arrow is hittting the side of the biscuit when it is leaving casuseing it to fish tail and be erratic in flight. the biscuit usually sets up near center line on the bows, not way to the left.

get a bigger backstop


try some 2314's , allminum