wisker bis. ???'s head and fletching clearance
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kalaheo Hi.
Posts: 319

Aloha everyone,
Well after years of making music on my prong style restI went with a Drop Tine arrow rest ( whisker Bisquit) on a High Country bow made around 1995 . I shoot at around 65 to 70 pds. and had an over draw. My arrows are 2117 and measure 26 7/8 inches(nock end to insert).
Here are my new dillemas.
1) No over draw anymore so at full draw my broadhead comes in contact with the bisquit. Is that no good?? . Shoul I cut new arrows giving me a 1 1/2 inch between broadheads and bisquit?? Will the extra length of the arrowthrow off anything on my bow???
2) When I nock my arrow onto my string the vanes are resting in the bisquit , just the tips. Is this also a bad idea?? Seems like it. What ideas does anyone have on this issue??
Thank you all for any help. One thing to please try to keep in mind is Im on a tight budget ( kids) and am hoping to get affordable ideas if possible
Really want to get this dialed in to bring some meat home .
Mahalo,
Paka
Well after years of making music on my prong style restI went with a Drop Tine arrow rest ( whisker Bisquit) on a High Country bow made around 1995 . I shoot at around 65 to 70 pds. and had an over draw. My arrows are 2117 and measure 26 7/8 inches(nock end to insert).
Here are my new dillemas.
1) No over draw anymore so at full draw my broadhead comes in contact with the bisquit. Is that no good?? . Shoul I cut new arrows giving me a 1 1/2 inch between broadheads and bisquit?? Will the extra length of the arrowthrow off anything on my bow???
2) When I nock my arrow onto my string the vanes are resting in the bisquit , just the tips. Is this also a bad idea?? Seems like it. What ideas does anyone have on this issue??
Thank you all for any help. One thing to please try to keep in mind is Im on a tight budget ( kids) and am hoping to get affordable ideas if possible

Mahalo,
Paka
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 361

I would cut some longer arrows so my broadheads clear the biscuit. As far as your vane touching when you nock an arrow that is not a problem but if it bothers you then you could put shorter vanes on your arrows have you ever tried Blazer vanes they are short but are a taller than a normal vane and they are tougher and won't wrinkle. Hope this helps.
#3
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 3,903

1) Having your broadhead contact the biscuit at full draw is a bad thing. I would get new arrows and have them cut a 1/2" longer than your current arrows.
2) If your vanes are contacting the biscuit when you nock your arrow it could be a few things , ie low brace height bow , long vanes , biscuit mounted too far back.
I would start by mounting your biscuit so it sits roughly 1/4" behind the riser (this may change the length you want your arrows cut) and no further. If your vanes still contact the biscuit when the arrow is nocked you can get shorter vanes (Blazer vanes work awesome) or have the vanes mounted closer to the nock (unless you shoot fingers).
All said and done it shouldn't cost you much (pick up a half dozen arrows and have the correct vanes mounted) and it should only be a matter of adjusting your sight pins (<maybe).
2) If your vanes are contacting the biscuit when you nock your arrow it could be a few things , ie low brace height bow , long vanes , biscuit mounted too far back.
I would start by mounting your biscuit so it sits roughly 1/4" behind the riser (this may change the length you want your arrows cut) and no further. If your vanes still contact the biscuit when the arrow is nocked you can get shorter vanes (Blazer vanes work awesome) or have the vanes mounted closer to the nock (unless you shoot fingers).
All said and done it shouldn't cost you much (pick up a half dozen arrows and have the correct vanes mounted) and it should only be a matter of adjusting your sight pins (<maybe).
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Eastern PA USA
Posts: 1,398

I would want the arrow longer, and get that broadhead away from the biscuit. If you go with a longer arrow, you probably should move up to a 2216 instead of the 2117, unless you want to back off on the draw weight. The 2216 has more spine (stiffness) than the 2117, but has almost identical weight, so not much will really change, but they should shoot better. Hard to say just how long your arrows should be without seeing the setup. As Bowfanatic said, get the biscuit close to the riser, and figure arrow length from there. The vanes inside the biscuit is no big deal, but I wouldn't want feathers in there.
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kalaheo Hi.
Posts: 319

Thanks for all the replys guys
I e mailed Carolina Archery and they got back to me also. The verdict. Get new arrows and cut to clear bisquit.
Our only hunt shop over hear just went out of business so Ill need to order arrows, unless I pick up the 2117 from Walmart . Can I do this to sight in my bow then add stiffer arrows later. How do you know when your arrows arent stiff enough??
Thanks for all the help , Im trying to get better at bow hunting so I can make my harvesting go quick and smoothly.
P.S. What happens when you put batteries in backwards into the energizer bunny ????? He keeps comming and comming

Our only hunt shop over hear just went out of business so Ill need to order arrows, unless I pick up the 2117 from Walmart . Can I do this to sight in my bow then add stiffer arrows later. How do you know when your arrows arent stiff enough??
Thanks for all the help , Im trying to get better at bow hunting so I can make my harvesting go quick and smoothly.
P.S. What happens when you put batteries in backwards into the energizer bunny ????? He keeps comming and comming

#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Kalaheo Hi.
Posts: 319

Actually , its pushed as far forward as possibleto riser. I felt more comfortable with it close to the bow rather than hanging out in the open. With the bolt in the middle and not on the end , it seemed like it would be a little sturdyer.
With my overdraw my arrows were 26 7/8 inches and even with the bisquit pushed back towards the string they only cleared the broadheads by a 1/4 in . So I follwed Carolina's install and cut arrows at 29" . I couldnt be happier.
With my overdraw my arrows were 26 7/8 inches and even with the bisquit pushed back towards the string they only cleared the broadheads by a 1/4 in . So I follwed Carolina's install and cut arrows at 29" . I couldnt be happier.

#9
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 3,903

ORIGINAL: paka
Actually , its pushed as far forward as possibleto riser. I felt more comfortable with it close to the bow rather than hanging out in the open. With the bolt in the middle and not on the end , it seemed like it would be a little sturdyer.
With my overdraw my arrows were 26 7/8 inches and even with the bisquit pushed back towards the string they only cleared the broadheads by a 1/4 in . So I follwed Carolina's install and cut arrows at 29" . I couldnt be happier.
Actually , its pushed as far forward as possibleto riser. I felt more comfortable with it close to the bow rather than hanging out in the open. With the bolt in the middle and not on the end , it seemed like it would be a little sturdyer.
With my overdraw my arrows were 26 7/8 inches and even with the bisquit pushed back towards the string they only cleared the broadheads by a 1/4 in . So I follwed Carolina's install and cut arrows at 29" . I couldnt be happier.

Glad everything worked out for ya!
P.S. What happens when you put batteries in backwards into the energizer bunny ????? He keeps comming and comming

