Librty heads high and right....
10-17-2005, 06:37 AM
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location:
Posts: 484
Librty heads high and right....
I've been shooting the sonic 100's with7/8" cut, very pleased with groups out to 30 yds.
Bought some Liberty 100's 1 3/16 cut same head as the sonic only bigger.
Anyway shot them for the first time Sat. & I'm consistently 6-8" high & 5-6" inches right at 20 yds. The first one I shot went over the target by an inchtook a chunk out of a rock went straight up in the air & landed 20 yds away[
]. There was so little damage to the broadhead I was quite surprised. The following shots did a number on the ole riverbottom buck better penetration and larger chunks than the 7/8(huge!)
Any ideas why they fly so different? shooting Browning Boss 290 gn arrows 390 with the head.R helical fletching
I also have some x weave 250 gn'ers I'll try next. also want to try some arrows with offset, not helical fletchings.move target out to 30 yds see if that helps.
Sorry for the long post. All ideas appreciated.
Bought some Liberty 100's 1 3/16 cut same head as the sonic only bigger.
Anyway shot them for the first time Sat. & I'm consistently 6-8" high & 5-6" inches right at 20 yds. The first one I shot went over the target by an inchtook a chunk out of a rock went straight up in the air & landed 20 yds away[
]. There was so little damage to the broadhead I was quite surprised. The following shots did a number on the ole riverbottom buck better penetration and larger chunks than the 7/8(huge!)Any ideas why they fly so different? shooting Browning Boss 290 gn arrows 390 with the head.R helical fletching
I also have some x weave 250 gn'ers I'll try next. also want to try some arrows with offset, not helical fletchings.move target out to 30 yds see if that helps.
Sorry for the long post. All ideas appreciated.
10-17-2005, 08:00 AM
#2
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Librty heads high and right....
Bigger broadheads =more blade surface area. More blade surface area = more susceptible to planing. More susceptible to planing = more critical on bow tune.
Move rest left, move nockset up.
If you really want to reduce the effect of planing, you're talking about doing exactly the wrong things. The lighter your arrows get, the easier they are for the broadhead to steer off course. The heavier they are, the more resistant they are to being drawn off their flight path. Helical fletching is best for stabilizing an arrow andalso keeping it flying straight.
So, go to heavier arrows and stick with helical fletch.
Move rest left, move nockset up.
If you really want to reduce the effect of planing, you're talking about doing exactly the wrong things. The lighter your arrows get, the easier they are for the broadhead to steer off course. The heavier they are, the more resistant they are to being drawn off their flight path. Helical fletching is best for stabilizing an arrow andalso keeping it flying straight.
So, go to heavier arrows and stick with helical fletch.
10-17-2005, 02:05 PM
#3
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Windsor, ON
Posts: 135
RE: Librty heads high and right....
Arthur's right. Go with heavier arrows and keep the helical fletching. I shoot Liberties as well. Mine are dead on, but I also increased my arrow length. (I used to shoot an overdraw, but I was having clearance issues, particularly with these heads.)
To add to what Arthur said, more surface area = more susceptible to planing = more critical on shooting form. Be careful of this as well.
To add to what Arthur said, more surface area = more susceptible to planing = more critical on shooting form. Be careful of this as well.
10-18-2005, 07:33 AM
#5
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Librty heads high and right....
...different bows are made for different broadheads
[8D]Just jerkin' your chain. I know what you mean.... I think[:-]IMO, it's more a problem with arrows than with the bow. You put a quality broadhead on a quality arrow, like an ACC, any bow can be tuned to shoot it perfectly. I've not seen an ICS-type carbon yet that can hold it's own against ACC's, or even XX75's for that matter, when it comes to shooting consistently well with a wide variety of broadheads.
10-18-2005, 07:35 PM
#6
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location:
Posts: 484
RE: Librty heads high and right....
Thanks for the reply's guys. Ididtrysome heavier and longer arrows; 490 gr's.and 2"longerGM's whitetail hunters. Well they surprisingly fly abit better not quite so high, I'm surprised because with the field pts they shot5-6" lower than the lighter arrows..I practiced the kentucky windage method a bit (aiming lowand left to compensate for the high & right POI)Got some good sticks at 20 yds but havn't had time to move the target out farther yet.I think I will put 2 wtails w/ the liberty's in my quiver just in caseI get the 20 yd shot, but I will keep the sonics with meas well for anything longer...at least till I get consistant with the bigger heads.
Thanks to all, NY
(aiming lowand left to compensate for the high & right POI)Got some good sticks at 20 yds but havn't had time to move the target out farther yet.I think I will put 2 wtails w/ the liberty's in my quiver just in caseI get the 20 yd shot, but I will keep the sonics with meas well for anything longer...at least till I get consistant with the bigger heads.Thanks to all, NY
10-18-2005, 08:14 PM
#7
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 3,215
RE: Librty heads high and right....
Finish tuning your bow.
1) shoot a field point tipped arrow into the bulls eyes
2) shoot a broadhead tipped into aiming at the same spot.
3) move the rest away from the broadheads impact. ie - if the arrow is high right, move the rest dow, left. You can also move the nock point, but make it follow the arrow. ie - high arrow = raise nock point
4) repeat step 1 and 2
5) after #4, if the broadheads and field points dont group together, repeat step 3
6) after you get the field points and broadheads grouping together, adjust your sight to bring them both back into the bull.
I would be willing to bet if you got the larger diameter heads grouping with your field points, the smaller ones will also.
1) shoot a field point tipped arrow into the bulls eyes
2) shoot a broadhead tipped into aiming at the same spot.
3) move the rest away from the broadheads impact. ie - if the arrow is high right, move the rest dow, left. You can also move the nock point, but make it follow the arrow. ie - high arrow = raise nock point
4) repeat step 1 and 2
5) after #4, if the broadheads and field points dont group together, repeat step 3
6) after you get the field points and broadheads grouping together, adjust your sight to bring them both back into the bull.
I would be willing to bet if you got the larger diameter heads grouping with your field points, the smaller ones will also.
10-19-2005, 05:46 AM
#8
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location:
Posts: 484
RE: Librty heads high and right....
Josh,thanks for that advice,would you try fine tuning ita week into season,& is this something that will takea long whileto get to the bottom of? I know the sonics will fly well nowand I'm kinda afraid I will mess somethin up that may cost me a deer. I guess I could mark the positionthat the rest is at now..move it & shoot a few..
10-19-2005, 08:19 AM
#10
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 3,215
RE: Librty heads high and right....
Once I get the rest and sights installed and roughly shot in for 20 yards, I can generally tune a bow in about 10 minutes.
As for the drop away, it depends on the model. I have my cord set so it starts coming up about the last 4" of the arrow. I can micro adjust the rest up and down by simply turning a screw and it has no effect on the string length requirements.
As for the drop away, it depends on the model. I have my cord set so it starts coming up about the last 4" of the arrow. I can micro adjust the rest up and down by simply turning a screw and it has no effect on the string length requirements.