dangolbowhunter

I followed the Easton tuning guide and I'd like to know what this equates to in terms of velocity and accuracy. After setting me up with a complete bow package(Switchback) my local pro set me up with Super Carbon Hunter 60-75's with 100gr field points, and the bare shafts are hitting 8 in right of the fleched arrows.Once nocked, the arrows are centered w/ string and cam. Should I offset the rest to theleft to compensate, or just get stiffer spined arrows.I don't want to crank the poundage down, so that's not an option. If these arrows are too weak for my setup, I feel the pro should even swap me for the correct arrows...don't you think? I'm pretty hot about this!! The bare shaft test does work when using a release, doesn't it?
Thanks for any imput.

JeramyK

I'd try a stiffer spined arrow.

PSEsilverhawk55

i did a post on the spine of my arrows and someone on archerytalk told me to shoot a bare shaft and see where it hit along with fletched shafts

JOE PA

It should definitely be closer than that. I personally am much more fond of experimentation that is not real expensive. The easiest thing you could try is to move the rest out a little bit to see if that helps. You might want to try paper tuning to see how the fletched arrows are coming off the bow. If you have a question about spine, then despite the statement that you don't want to back off the limb bolts, that is just what I'd do. You would be able to see if the bare shaft arrows now fly well, or if they are still hit to the right. If you know that, you would have more info to take to the dealer concerning the spine of the arrows he sold you to go with the bow. I don't know much about the Switchback specifically, but I recall Jeff B. saying that they don't do too well with an arrow that is too stiff, so spine may not be the issue. Backing off the limb bolts would be a quick way to see if the arrows are wrong for the bow, or the tune is off in some other way. JMHO.

brad patriot

i would get the 75 95's or you could shorten these up to 28in which you could do with the ultra rest since it sits so far back.but I would tell them these arrows are way to weak.your centers hot should be at about 13/16 from the inside of the riser to the center of the arrow. and the bare shafting with a release does work.

dangolbowhunter

I'm shooting bullet holes through paper with fletched arrowsat 6ft. My arrows are already 28in. I only have another half inch to spare, and I doubt that would make a significant difference.

DaveC

Could you afford weight wise to try a 75 grain tip just to see if stiffer flies better?

BGfisher

A lot of carbon arrows seem to fly better if on the stiff side. You are pretty much on the upper edge for spine with your present shafts. You have several options available for tuning at this point. You can try a stiffer shaft or turn some weight off the limbs. Like back off to about 65# and see if they fly better. If this works then why are you so averse to shooting 65#? That's one of the reasons limbs are adjustable. It's called part of the tuning process. Assuming you're hunting deer sized game, or even elk for that matter, they aren't going to care whether they get shot with 65# or 70# bow. You gotta do what you gotta do to make arrows fly well.

Paul L Mohr

I would like to know exactly how you went about bare shaft tuning them before I made any real suggestions.

For starters hitting the the right or left with a release does not indicate spine. This test is meant for finger shooters, so the fixes they list do not always apply to release shooters.

It could be spine, center shot, or your form.

I would turn the bow down first to see what happens. Turning the poundage down does not mean you have to keep it there, it is simply a test to see if things change or not. If you turn the poundage down and the arrows get closer, than you may indeed need stiffer arrows. Get some stiffer arrows and turn it back up if that is what you want.

If that does not help then mess with the center shot making small adjustments and see if that will work. Setting center shot with a tool, or eyeballing it is only a start, it's not uncommon to make adjustments later to get things right. If not it may be bow torque and you need to change how you grip the bow.

Also, if you are only using one arrow for the bare shaft test, try using another. Maybe that arrow is bad. I would put them on an arrow spinner as well.

What kind of distance are we talking about?

Also keep in mind that bare shaft tuning will not garauntee your broad heads will hit in the same spot. You may have to twead things a little again depending on what heads you use. If all I did was hunt with my bow I would tune it with broad heads right from the get go.

Paul

Browning_1

You also need to make sure that the arrow perfectly bisects the berger hole and your nock is set so the arrow is dead level. This should give you flat nock travel. I had a bare shaft that was hitting 8" left and this fixed the problem for me....I got this information straight from the Mathews techs.

Despite popular belief.....left to right problems can also be attributed to nock height.