Muzzy 100 Grain Shooters
07-30-2005, 04:54 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rockford Michigan USA
Posts: 1,344
RE: Muzzy 100 Grain Shooters
I shoot 3 blades just because thats what they had in 100 gr. 4 blades won't penetrate as much but they will cut more. I don't really think the extra blade is necessary and like how the 3 blades perform, but i'm sure either will work fine.
07-30-2005, 06:44 PM
#5
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,679
RE: Muzzy 100 Grain Shooters
If I were going to shoot a Muzzy it would be the four blade model. I am not particularly fond of the way the three blades lock into the furrel off center of the center of the furrel. The four blade model locks the blades much more securely than the three blade model does.
You also get a slight advantage in total tissue cut with the four blade model over the three blade model. The three blade head has a total cut factor of 1.78 inches and the four blade model has a total cut of 2 inches.
Honestly if I were going to shoot this style of head I would much rather shoot the innerlock. The three blades are centered on the furrel and the steel tip extends all the way through the furrel and threads into the rear. I find this set up much stronger and have found the innerlocks to be a more accurate head.
You also get a slight advantage in total tissue cut with the four blade model over the three blade model. The three blade head has a total cut factor of 1.78 inches and the four blade model has a total cut of 2 inches.
Honestly if I were going to shoot this style of head I would much rather shoot the innerlock. The three blades are centered on the furrel and the steel tip extends all the way through the furrel and threads into the rear. I find this set up much stronger and have found the innerlocks to be a more accurate head.
07-30-2005, 09:41 PM
#7
Fork Horn
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Greenville, IL
Posts: 287
RE: Muzzy 100 Grain Shooters
Yeah, to me, penetration is more important to a blood trail than most possiblecutting diameter. If the arrow does not pass completely through, then the wound is not completely open and blood flow will be somewhat restricted. If the 3 blade offers more penetration, which is why I chose it, then that's how I believe you get good blood.
07-30-2005, 11:27 PM
#8
Typical Buck
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: New York
Posts: 580
RE: Muzzy 100 Grain Shooters
I was going to ask the same thing, what's the real deal with the difference between 3 and 4 blades, 3 penetrates more and 4 makes a bigger hole, how can it when the 3 bladed has a bigger cut. Also blood trails which is better, trying to find a happy medium, good penetration and good blood, are 4's harder to sight in, if so how do you line them up with the fletchings? Does it matter with 4?
07-30-2005, 11:58 PM
#9
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,679
RE: Muzzy 100 Grain Shooters
Lou-Lou, the four blade head while having a smaller cutting diameter actually cuts more flesh than the three blade head does.
The three blade head has a cutting idameter of 1 3/16th inch while the four blade head has a 1 inch cutting diameter. So, each of the blades on the three blade model stick out from the center .594 inches and multiply that number times the number of blades (three) and you get a total "slash factor" of 1.782 inches. Each blade of the four blade head sticks out exactly .5 inches. Multiply that number times the number of blades (four) and you get a total "slash factor" of exactly two inches.
By "slash factor" I mean that if you had a single edged blade, such as a knife, the "slash factor" number would be the length of that single blade.
Now compare them on a linear scale and for every inch of foward cut the four blade head cuts .218 more inches of flesh. Add that up through 18 inches of a deers chest and and the four blade head will cut 3.924 more inches of flesh. Or through an elks chest at three feet across and the four blade will cut 7.848 more inches of flesh.
No on to the other questions. A four blade head should be just as easy to tune as a three blade head. I strongly believe that the four blade head secures its blades in the furrel much better than the three blade model does. I give the strength vote to the four blade head.
Lining up the blades with the fletchings has absolutely no merit what so ever. This was just recently asked around here and you would literally have to be a math wizzard to figure out exactly where to place the blades in relationship to the fletchings. And then as soon as the wind direction changes, the arrow speed changes, temperature changes, humidity changes etc... etc... etc... it would all be fore not. Basically it is 100% impossible to get the blades of a broadhead and the fletchings to travel through the same air for more than a split second. Simply make sure that your broadheads spin true and if it makes you feel more confident you can orient all of the broadheads the same way in relation to each other so that they all leave the bow the same way but forget about the fletchings.
The three blade head has a cutting idameter of 1 3/16th inch while the four blade head has a 1 inch cutting diameter. So, each of the blades on the three blade model stick out from the center .594 inches and multiply that number times the number of blades (three) and you get a total "slash factor" of 1.782 inches. Each blade of the four blade head sticks out exactly .5 inches. Multiply that number times the number of blades (four) and you get a total "slash factor" of exactly two inches.
By "slash factor" I mean that if you had a single edged blade, such as a knife, the "slash factor" number would be the length of that single blade.
Now compare them on a linear scale and for every inch of foward cut the four blade head cuts .218 more inches of flesh. Add that up through 18 inches of a deers chest and and the four blade head will cut 3.924 more inches of flesh. Or through an elks chest at three feet across and the four blade will cut 7.848 more inches of flesh.
No on to the other questions. A four blade head should be just as easy to tune as a three blade head. I strongly believe that the four blade head secures its blades in the furrel much better than the three blade model does. I give the strength vote to the four blade head.
Lining up the blades with the fletchings has absolutely no merit what so ever. This was just recently asked around here and you would literally have to be a math wizzard to figure out exactly where to place the blades in relationship to the fletchings. And then as soon as the wind direction changes, the arrow speed changes, temperature changes, humidity changes etc... etc... etc... it would all be fore not. Basically it is 100% impossible to get the blades of a broadhead and the fletchings to travel through the same air for more than a split second. Simply make sure that your broadheads spin true and if it makes you feel more confident you can orient all of the broadheads the same way in relation to each other so that they all leave the bow the same way but forget about the fletchings.
