youngbuck125

Just like every1 said, try to hunt safe, did u see the message about "wisconsin boy killed" ? the guy who shot him was squirell hunting and he happend to kill a HUMAN

cardeer

I ja momma

PABowhntr

I hope you are able to salvage it as it sounds as if you are very proud of that harvest.

Michelles_Taxidermy

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Michelles_Taxidermy

Question..... Whats the difference if the bobcat was tanned or not? A tanned hide will slip just the same as a Dry Preserved hide. More than likely it wasn't taken care of properly in the field or in the taxidermists shop.I have been doing taxidermy for over 3 years andI have never had a Dry Preservedhide slip on me, but I have had1 tanned one slip. I use DP on all my deer heads unless the customerasks me to have it tanned. I also use DP on all my birds and small mamals. I see no point intanning a small mamal unless it is going to be a rug.

Tanning and Dry Preserve are both effective. Their are flaws and drawback to both methods. Only thing with DP is you have less working time with the hide.

As for your problem ryncam16do you live in a high humidity climate. I have known both tanned and DP hide to rehydrate enough to cause hair to stop slipping. It doesn't happen often but it does happen. I live in South Georgia and have seen this problem. Put the cat in a dry place and see if that helps any in the next couple days. You could also place it to a light heat sorce but not for a long period of time maybe 12 hours or so to get the hide to dry again. If that doesn't stop it than their isn't anything that can be done.

Hope this helps. Ohh yeah don't put it to close to the heat sorce it could damage the hair....

Alex The Hawk

Oh well I didn't know you have being doing taxidermy for a whole 3 years, I guess the 40 years I've being doing it I should throw away and start all over.

There are many problems with skins when they are not tanned, one being moth and other insects that eat the root of the hair, also high humidity will cause untanned hair to fall easier.

A well tanned skin and glue to the manikin will make a mount last much longer, that is just a fact.

Also untanned skins have the problems of shrinkage and eyes pulling away as well as difficult grooming.

You show me a mount that was dried preserve and even in pics I can tell it wasn't tanned.

Michelles_Taxidermy

Their is no reason to get so deffensive. You like your method and i got mine. I have never had a problem with pulling. I flesh all my hides properly. The way they are supposed to be fleshed when using a DP. The DP I use has bug proofing agents in it. I have never had anyone call and complain about bugs on their mount or pulling.

Just because i have been doing taxidermy for only 3 years doesn't mean I don't know what I am talking about. You might be supprised bout what i can and can't do on a mount. Tanning or DPing. I have and can do both methods. Like I said their are drawbacks to both. DP os a harder process to use so a lot of taxidermists don't like it.

As for you being able to tell the difference in a tanned hide and a DP'ed hide from a picture I don't beleive that. I havn't met anyone yet that can. I will be the first to admit I can't get them all rght. Alright you tell me which one is tanned and which one is DP'ed.

Alex The Hawk

First one is tanned perhaps home tanned, the rest are dP and the elk is tanned, they are all rough groomed except for the elk is pretty good.

Michelles_Taxidermy

Alright now how did you come up with your answer? What gives it away cuz your right on all 4. I have had a few taxidermist tell me they could tell the difference and they could never do it. I'm nottrying to be an ass. I just been using Dp since I started taxidermy and have never run into the problems everyone keeps talking about.

This past yearI have sent a few capes off to Key Stone Fur Dressing to have them tanned since I am a Civilian Mechanic out at the Marine Base here in Albanyit is easier to just rehydrate a cape and mout it than it is to do all the fleshing and hide preping and mounting.

Not trying to get on anyones bad side on here I just don't like people talking bad about a method that has worked for me since Istarted and know of 2 other taxidermist been using it for the past 10 - 15 years and they have won 1st place ribbons with the stuff.

Alex The Hawk

Michelle, I've doing this for 40+ years ,Iam almost retired also from the IDF and US Marines.

I have tried every method under the sun, the clue is the hair, look at the throat patch and you will se it doesn't look evenly combed and the rest of the hair specially on the shoulders, the grooming didn't stay as you groomed them when they were green, that is because the hide shrinks so the hairs go anywheres it wants to not where you intended it to. The Only solution is to use a strong adhesive and scrape the mannikin well so You get adhesion.

Another give away is the face, I see very Little detail so you used no glue because green hides with DP are hard to glue.

Iam unnable to post some of my mounts that are tanned because I have a problem with my window pic, so I have to wait till my son drops by and fixes it.

Your mounts are good for a commercial mounts, the problem with DP is eventually mites will eat the hair ,because the Dp only works on the flesh side and where the hair is very superficial and small like around the eyes it will start to fall off.

3 years is not enough to see the results, I have mounts in here that are 20 years old with DP and Tanned the DP always looses. and eventually you will loose customers as they realize it or someone tells them.

Remember word of mouth is the best advertising and os is someone bad mouthing you.

You have a handle on mounting ,now try the tanned capes and you will do very well with the talent you have.

Good Luck. Alex
Advance Taxidermy Services Inc Miami Fla.