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Anneal then Resize?

Old 05-01-2005, 11:14 AM
  #1  
bigcountry
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Default Anneal then Resize?

I have about 100 300RUM and 100 7mmSTW brass. Both sets have been shot 3 times. I was getting ready to anneal but should I anneal then resize or FL Size then Anneal? Found it to be very time consuming.

Tumble the brass, clean the media off the brass, FL size, wipe lube off brass, anneal the brass, then retumble.

Figured it might be easier and the same thing to tumble, clean, anneal, then resize, clean lube off
 
Old 05-01-2005, 11:21 AM
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

Bigcountry - you definitely want to anneal before resizing. If not, the necks could crack during the resizing process - in which case, it's too late to anneal them . . . . Are you using the standard propane torch/bucket of water method?
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:27 AM
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

ditto to what Roskoe said...................anneal BEFORE resizing.
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Old 05-01-2005, 12:42 PM
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bigcountry
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

I am using Hornady's kit with a electric screwdriver and tempalac paint and propane torch. I still can't see the "blue shiney wash" people talk about. I practiced on 10 junk case last night and all I could see if the neck getting red. I tried with the lights low, lights high. I will just stick with the tempalac paint. I can at least see that.
 
Old 05-01-2005, 03:05 PM
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

Big - the blue tinge comes after the case is quenched in water. Brass is wierd stuff. When heated and quenched, it gets softer - opposite of steel. You don't need or want to get it red hot. The easy way is to hold the case by the back (near the web) with your fingers. Place the neck into the propane torch flame and rotate. When the case gets too hot to hold, open your fingers and let it drop into the 10 quart bucket of water you have placed right under the torch flame. The neck and shoulder of the case will usually be discolored.
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Old 05-01-2005, 03:19 PM
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bigcountry
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

want to get it red hot. The easy way is to hold the case by the back (near the web) with your fingers. Place the neck into the propane torch flame and rotate. When the case gets too hot to hold, open your fingers and let it drop into the 10 quart bucket of water you have placed right under the torch flame. The neck and shoulder of the case will usually be discolored.
According to Ken Howell, that just doesnt cut it. It won't reach its 675F? Also, different cases different temps. I know John Barshness claims this method. But what I find with 300RUM cases it won't even melt the 475F temp paint 1/4" below the shoulders.
 
Old 05-01-2005, 04:20 PM
  #7  
DM
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

In all of my years of reloading i've NEVER had to anneal cases after ONLY useing them 3 or 4 times!!!!

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Old 05-01-2005, 04:36 PM
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

ORIGINAL: DM

In all of my years of reloading i've NEVER had to anneal cases after ONLY useing them 3 or 4 times!!!!

Drilling Man
what is a sign of needing to anneal?
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Old 05-01-2005, 04:43 PM
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bigcountry
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

what is a sign of needing to anneal?
Weak neck tension. I don't know if I do need too or not, but would like to get 5 loads out of this 300 RUM brass. I have had cracked necks at load 4 before. Hopefully this will fix it.
 
Old 05-01-2005, 05:18 PM
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Default RE: Anneal then Resize?

I have done thousands of cases this way. Never really knew what the exact temperature was - just know that it works! Also, I was of the understanding that lack of neck tension was generally attributed to necks being too soft - and cracks in the neck are a red flag they are getting brittle from "work hardening". The annealing process softens them . . . .
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