Annealing brass
#1
Annealing brass
I've been reloading for over 50 years now but I've never annealed my brass. My normal reloading process was to examine my cases for defects and toss them. But today brass is getting a bit expensive so I would like to lengthen my case life through annealing.
I've seen enough videos on it to get a good idea how to do it but I didn't seen one that said how often to anneal. I wouldn't think you'd do it every time.
I've seen enough videos on it to get a good idea how to do it but I didn't seen one that said how often to anneal. I wouldn't think you'd do it every time.
#2
Depends on the load, and how you're loading. Hummer70 just posted an interesting thread on this too - good info on limiting case stretch by proper chamber dimension - which a lot of us do by neck-sizing only for bolt action rifle brass, or using a bump die instead of an FL sizing die.
I anneal before and/or after case forming (sometimes either, sometimes both), and then usually every 3rd or 5th loading, depending upon the cartridge. Obviously some cartridges are harder on brass than others, so lower stress rounds don't need as much attention as other higher stress rounds. I may be one of the only guys I've ever heard of who anneals revolver brass, but it's a lot cheaper to make them last, and I absolutely HATE doing new case prep.
I anneal before and/or after case forming (sometimes either, sometimes both), and then usually every 3rd or 5th loading, depending upon the cartridge. Obviously some cartridges are harder on brass than others, so lower stress rounds don't need as much attention as other higher stress rounds. I may be one of the only guys I've ever heard of who anneals revolver brass, but it's a lot cheaper to make them last, and I absolutely HATE doing new case prep.
#3
Like Mercy, I fire form and neck size rather than full form. New brass I load up light and use a media fill rather than a bullet. Less pain in the rump and MUCH easier on the shoulder as well as the barrel. Not to mention cheaper. Cream Of Wheat makes a great media. I also only have to anneal only every 3rd loading on most of my brass. Usually the 6.8 and the 7mm-08 need it a little more often since I tend to run both of those a little on the hot side.
#4
http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/relo...shoulders.html
Nomercy448, I have done it as well on pistol ammo but generally don't bother to roll crimp as many of my loads are not hot enough to get creep out. But as you say cases are up there and we need to do everything we can to keep them going till the primer pockets get loose.
Many of the wheel gun chambers are JUMBO ! ! ! ! ! If I was shooting more 44 mag I would make up a turn mandrell to hold those and do the same stress relieving on those.
I have a 222 gr. 357 mold and I cast them for self defense loads and I crimp those. Fortunatley I was able to lay in a goodly supply of 357 once fired cases from a 40,000 round 357 Mag test I conducted many years ago. I am a charter member of PBU.............. Packrats be us! ! ! I am also a member of NRA which means Never Refuse Anything ! ! !
Nomercy448, I have done it as well on pistol ammo but generally don't bother to roll crimp as many of my loads are not hot enough to get creep out. But as you say cases are up there and we need to do everything we can to keep them going till the primer pockets get loose.
Many of the wheel gun chambers are JUMBO ! ! ! ! ! If I was shooting more 44 mag I would make up a turn mandrell to hold those and do the same stress relieving on those.
I have a 222 gr. 357 mold and I cast them for self defense loads and I crimp those. Fortunatley I was able to lay in a goodly supply of 357 once fired cases from a 40,000 round 357 Mag test I conducted many years ago. I am a charter member of PBU.............. Packrats be us! ! ! I am also a member of NRA which means Never Refuse Anything ! ! !
Last edited by Hummer70; 03-19-2016 at 08:46 AM.