Help getting back in reloading
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location:
Posts: 56
Help getting back in reloading
I used to load .270 and .308 way back (about 40 years ago), but then got out of rifle reloading and did a lot more pistol reloading with a Dillon SDB that I bought used. I still have a nice powder measure, scales, blocks, etc. as well as an RCBS Jr. press. Well, I have gotten back into hunting and shooting with one of my sons, and I would like to start reloading .243 win. My questions: 1. what is the best set of dies I can buy for the money. 2. full length sizing or neck sizing only? 3. do I have to lube my brass for resizing? (got out of this with carbide pistol dies). 4. Do I need a case trimmer? 5. 3 die or 2 die set? 6. any other pointers that would be helpful would be appreciated.
I plan on buying a current reloading manual... what would you suggest? I also know that the manual would answer most of my questions, but I would love to hear comments from everyone also.
By the way, I am not looking for competitive target rounds, only good solid hunting rounds that will cover a dime at 100 yds. lol. Thanks in advance for you help.
I plan on buying a current reloading manual... what would you suggest? I also know that the manual would answer most of my questions, but I would love to hear comments from everyone also.
By the way, I am not looking for competitive target rounds, only good solid hunting rounds that will cover a dime at 100 yds. lol. Thanks in advance for you help.
Last edited by westbrooklawn; 11-03-2010 at 09:15 AM.
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 567
1. I've got lee, rcbs, and redding dies. I would probably say I like rcbs the best. They are slightly higher than lee dies though.
2. For a hunting gun neck sizing is probably a toss up. Maybe a little better accuracy and extended brass life, but those may not be critical factors for a hunting rifle that gets shot 50-100 shots a year. I neck size my 22-250, .243, and .260 because I'm a little more particular about how they shoot. I full length size for my .223(AR), 35 whelen, .270, etc. They need to be MOD(minute of deer). Unless your only firing brass that comes from factory rounds fired in your gun, you will need a FL die to go with a Neck Die. What I mean by that is once-fired brass from somebody else's gun usually will not neck size and fit properly in your gun.
3. Lube, yes
4. Trim, yes, but for one rifle a cheap hand trimmer like a lee would probably work.
5. See #2
6. Try a dummy round (sized brass and bullet) first and make sure it chambers before you load up a batch. Get your son involved. Have fun. Be safe. This is not the gospel, but it is what works for me. Everyone has their on sequence and tricks of the trade.
2. For a hunting gun neck sizing is probably a toss up. Maybe a little better accuracy and extended brass life, but those may not be critical factors for a hunting rifle that gets shot 50-100 shots a year. I neck size my 22-250, .243, and .260 because I'm a little more particular about how they shoot. I full length size for my .223(AR), 35 whelen, .270, etc. They need to be MOD(minute of deer). Unless your only firing brass that comes from factory rounds fired in your gun, you will need a FL die to go with a Neck Die. What I mean by that is once-fired brass from somebody else's gun usually will not neck size and fit properly in your gun.
3. Lube, yes
4. Trim, yes, but for one rifle a cheap hand trimmer like a lee would probably work.
5. See #2
6. Try a dummy round (sized brass and bullet) first and make sure it chambers before you load up a batch. Get your son involved. Have fun. Be safe. This is not the gospel, but it is what works for me. Everyone has their on sequence and tricks of the trade.
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
You know I have went the cheap route and bought lee's, had trouble Reddings and RCBS. But in the end, anymore I will only by RCBS or Redding comp dies. I will buy collet lee die. Thats it.