Did the math...now have some questions
 

I chimed in on the "reloading - cost effective" thread a while back. My Brother gave me a Lee Anniversary kit and so I went to Sportsman's Warehouse to find out what it would take to start reloading for my 270. I'm shooting 140gr Accubonds that run about $37 for 20, so that's $185 for 100 rnds. I will need to purchase about $15 - $20 worth of dies to begin reloading for 270 win. Powder, bullets, and primers total up to just under $80. Savings sound pretty good to me (assuming I have my own brass)? So, I think I'm going to start monkeying around with this and shoot my own next year (I already have ammo for this year).

Here are some questions that you all might be able to help me with. I hope they are not too fundamental but I don't seem to find them in other resources.

1.How many rounds do you get out of a pound of powder? I know this can vary, but for a larger (270, 30-06, 300 win) cartridge can anyone give me a ball park?

2. How many times can you reload brass? Do you just keep reloading and resizing until is shows damage or a crack?

3.Is there any brass from factory ammo that I shouldn't reload? I don't shoot alumminum or steel casing so no worries there, but for example if I buy some cheap Federal loads, is the brass still good for reloading purposes?

4.How do you guys keep track of how many times a specific case has been reloaded?

5.Powder seems to be pretty confusing. Any recommendations?

6. I see case cleaners for sale but my manual doesn't say anything about tumbling, only cleaning the primer pocket. Is this something that I need to consider?

Well I plan on setting up a bench and doeing some dry runs (with out powder)just to get the mechanics of it down and then I'm going to play with the powder and make sure I'm measuring correctly. After that I think I'm going to find someone who reloads and have them sit with me and watch just to make sure I'm doing it correctly.

Let me know if there is anything else that I didn't think of. I'm getting excited. This will be interesting and fun.

Spud

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

7000 grains per pound...simple division.


Depends on pressure, case design, ect. I reloaded most of my .270 brass 5 to 6 times before tossing it.


Usually a loose primer or split neck with the .270....


Blue box Federal is good to go for a lot of shooting. If it were me though I'd just source a bulk bag of virgin brassfrom one of the shooters supplies and rock on....cheaper that way. Remmy's, Winchesters, don't matter....


Used to be anal about it but now I just shoot the stuff until it craps out. The first split neck or loose primer getsthe batchtossed. I do shoot a lot of cases one complete go around before reloading. IOW, ifI've a 100 30-06's, they'll all get shot before before reloading any of them the next time.


I had good luck with IMR4350 and IMR4831, H1000 worked pretty good but it is slow and offers compressed loads. Try for a 90% or above load density with that type burn rate of powder.


Shiney brass looks better but it don't shoot any better. I do like, however, having clean brass to run through a sizer and definately can appreciate clean brass going into my chambers. I don't tumble, I wash with IOSSO.....


On aside, if you need brass, I've a chitt load squirreled away that I would let you have pretty darn cheap. I don't shoota .270 anymore.....

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

Should add that this will likely spin off into bullet choices, case trim advice, sizing techniques, equipment choices,and a host of other mind boggling scenarios.

All likely good advice to comebut keeping it simple in the beginning is good advice to heed....

Buy some manuals and do your homework too........

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

1. For large rifle cases, I figure about 125 out of a pound of powder. For 300 WSM, that is only about 100.

2. I figure 10, but I'm anal about not over resizing. Also, you can anneal case necks to make brass go for longer.

3. Not for rifle hunting loads. I guess I would avaid brass which comes out of an HK rifle due to it's fluted chamber. Ususally brass issues are related to cylindrical consistency. Sometimes there is a softness issue causing loose primers. Free brass is usually best for cost efficiency. . . .or once fired brass from a scrounger.

4. I just keep them together and when one goes bad, they all hit the bucket. I do label the box as to how many times they've been reloaded.

5. Yea, it is kind of. I first look for the fastest for a given caliber, then I look at peoples reviewsabout consistency over a temp range(basically are competative shooters using it?), then I try to match my barrel length to the one shown in the manual. For example, if a manual shows powder A to have a fast velocity at a low pressure with a 24" barrel, it should continue to build pressure and go faster with my 26" barrel. If it reaches max pressure in a 24" tube,it will probably over pressure in a longer tube and I will have to back off. Also, I tend to use a faster powder in a shorter tube and a slower poder in a longer tube.

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

tip for obtaining brass- hit up the local rifle range just before the first rifle season. Most 'once a year shooters/hunters' don't handload and they will buy a box of loaded ammo, crack off a box and walk away leaving the brass behind. In .270 Win. you should find that common as dirt.

Wow $37 for 20 bullets, for that kind of money I want a guidance system. I have a few boxes of .30 cal Sierras I bought way back when. The price on the box is marked $5.99/100. They kill elk just fine.

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

They are only about $20 for a box of 50.

If you are going to be hunting deer sized game then you might also want to consider bullets like the Hornady SST. They are about $26 per hundred. When I finally get around to getting my bench built and reloading area set up (yes I procrastinate)this is the bulletI will be starting out with every thing from .243 to 338 RUM.

Or, less expensive still is Remington Core-lokt at about $17 per hundred. Great deer bullet in the .270.

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

He was most likely talking about factory ammo, 20 for 37 bucks....thus the desire to reload and the ensuing questions.

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

Yes, a box of 20 Fed 140 Accubonds (factory loads) is approx $37 at the local Sportsman's warehouse.

I'd like to reload the Accubond, but might start with a less expensive bullet since I'm mainly hunting mullies right now.

Thanks for all the good info.

Spud

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

Well, that was like an airplane buzzing a tower and never coming in for a landing. [8D]

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

It was your airplane, fly it how ever you want.................

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

I suggest that when you choose the type of brass that you are going to reload that you try to stick to one brand. I prefer Remmington. This will take a variable out of your reloading experimenting. Powder use will depend upon amount you use (there has been a formula posted) and after a couple of pounds you will have a better idea. I also like to use the slower burning powders IMR 4350 and IMR 4831 ( I believe that the H1000 is more expensive than the IMR's). Also stick to the same type of primers. Case life is dependent on the loads and type of brass you use. If you down load (15% or so less than max.) your brass life will be extended (hard to determine load amount untill you experiment to find the load that your rifle likes, remember every rifle is different). I tumble my brass after a couple of uses. I don't think that tumbling is a must for I loaded for many years before I got a tumbler (RCBS). The .270 is a speedy bullet so I would look a boat tail design to assist in accuracy. I like the Sierra Game King b/t. They are not expensive and work great on game (not saying that they are better or worse than others but just that for the cost they provide great performance). Best of luck with your experimenting.

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

$37 for 20....wow, I'm glad I reload!

RE: Did the math...now have some questions
 

I meant that was a Duh on my part by not catching that to begin with.