don't be sorry. This is a place to exchange information and learn.

Removing the bolt from a rifle is pretty easy, every model is different. Remingtons usually have a little tab or button inside the trigger guard that you push to release the bolt so you can pull the bolt out of the receiver, some rifles have the bolt release button (the internal part that holds the bolt into the receiver is actually called a "bolt Stop" as it stops the bolt from exiting the receiver when you pull it back) in different places, some you hold the trigger back, others you push on the safety- every model of rifle is different.

Cleaning equipment can be bought at any gun shop or sporting goods store. Don't go cheap on a cleaning rod though- a cheap cleaning rod will ruin your rifle fasher than anything else- Coated 1 piece rods are good too- a good cleaning rod will run you about $20-30. Solvent is about $5, oil/preservative is $5-10, patches are a couple of dollars at most. Youcan also order this stuff from places like midwayusa.com

Olympic ammo is cheap, but I hear of alot of problems with it- some of the cases are split, and they don't always go off when you pull the trigger.
For $22 for 100, it might be worth trying though as this price is incredibly cheap for 30-06.

For plinking/target shooting use FMJs, hollow points, or soft points.

Cooper, depending on the store, you may find a rifle cleaning kit with starter ingredients and a rod for $12 - $15 depending on their markup. Many chain stores with a sporting goods section carry supplies. Your rifle, if new, will come with instructions. Be sure to read them. It should not be complicated. Looks like you don't have an "Elmer" to get you into shooting. It is always good to start with a clean rifle; don't oil your cartridges as it will increase chamber pressure. Similarly, you don't want the rifle chamber or barrel dripping with oil. Don't store you rifle in a rifle case constantly as it may encourage rust. If you keep it in a closet, store it muzzle upside down, especially if it leans against an outside wall. Clean your rifle thoroughly at least twice a year even if you do not shoot it. Tracers look cool but they are for "weapons" and not "sporting arms" like you have. If you must try a few, be sure to clean your barrel right away and thoroughly. They are corrosive. Maximum range of the cartridge 30 06 is over 4,000 meters, and it will hurt anything it falls down on. So remember when shooting, have a back stop like a hill or large old tree stump. When hunting, expect it to over penetrate, so you have to be 100% sure of both your target, and what is behind it. If you have been firing a 12 gauge shotgun, then you know what recoil is about. Otherwise, if you have not fired high powers, then the noise of the muzzle blast and the recoil of rifle will be significant. Use earplugs (or at least wadded up kleenex or something in your ears) when shooting. If new to a rifle, it is common to be unsteady the first few shots. Even if not zeroed, I encourage you to fire a few rounds from the stand position at close range to a safe target. Just to warm up to it. Place the butt of the stock firmly in the "cup" area between your shoulder bone and collar bone. (Not directly on the should or upper arm bicep.) Don't let anyone talk you into holding it an inch or so from your shoulder, shooting it off your hip bone or have your shoulder up against a tree. Those may cure you of wanting to shoot! Be sure to read instructions for your rifle scope. It will tell you how much to adjust your scope. Remington says they boresight these, but you may wish to start zeroing at 50 yards to get on paper before you get to 100. If you don't have an established rifle range, before going out, go to a football field. Walk a normal, deliberate pace. Start with your left foot and count the number of times it hits the ground until you hit 100 yards. Do this 3 times or so until you are sure what your count is. Right it down and put it in with your cleaning kit forever. My count today at age 55 is the same as it was in the Marines at age 25! more:

It is best to zero your rifle from a bench or small table for a rest, but you will notice alot more recoil at this time as there is less "give" compared to the stand position. This bothers some people. If it does, you can put extra padding between the buttstock and your shoulder.... firm padding, though! Be careful how close the scope is to your eye. It will bruise or cut you if too close!

I don't know about Olympic bulk ammo. Hopefully some other board member will report in on it. FMJ means full metal jacket; sp means soft point; hp means hollow point. Also, ammo makers may have their own special mix of abbreviations but they should have something saying what they are. Other than tracers, any bullet build should be ok for target work. But I would start with lighter weight bullets (150 -168 grain) while you are getting used to the rifle.

Remember to keep your muzzle pointed safely. And a buddy who points his muzzle at you is not your buddy. Anyone.... but anyone.... can make a mistake and leave a round chambered.

You can bore sight the rifle from the bench and at least get the first round on the paper, before you begin getting the scope zeroed in.
Do not allow anyone to put you down, concerning the Remington Model 710. From all reports that I have read, the action is smooth and the rifle with the "package" scope is accurate enough for any hunting situation, for which one would use a 30-06 chambered rifle. Certainly Remington cut some corners to get the price down and be competitive with Savage and some imported rifles, but the barrel and action are still Remington, which for years has been the brand against which others are judged. You may still find some new made full metal jacket ammo that is not expensive. At gunshows there are still tables selling fmj 30-06 for around 30 cents a round, or a little more. Save the brass cases, because if they are Boxer primed, you may want to later reload.
You may have put the cart before the horse, in terms of buying a rifle/scope combination before learning a lot more about firearms, but heck, now that you have the rifle, you will just have to learn a lot more quickly. Welcome to great fraternity of gunsports folk!

Welcome to the club. Hope you enjoy shooting your Remington. It is great fun.

Thanks... how do i calibrate my scope if i can't see what i'm shooting... the range i goto has metal targets at different ranges and you can't put up your own, so how will i know how to fix the scope? any ranges in my area (818 area code) that you guys can think of?

Man... Biscuit Jake gave you a lot of good info.. I would listen to your elders... Like my father they have been doing it for a long time and know a lot more than I do...

One thing he said was to store your gun barrel down, Like the older people I hang around with... This was once the only way to keep all the crud out of your action, the new teflon lubricants don't require nearly the volume the old protectants do, you will only need a light coat. It is not a bad idea to store your gun "upside down" but there can be some side affects if you are not carefull. Make sure that you put a pad on the ground. Otherwise you might damage your crown (the tip of the barrel). If the crown becomes damaged it could affect the accuracy of the gun.

I personally store my guns upright, as do some of my younger friends... Everytime one of the old fella's come over the curse up and down at me and call me a moron... I, however, have never had a problem with any of these guns. I do take all of them out about every month to wipe them down though.

Again, Biscuit Jake, knows a lot more than I do, so if you end up storing it upside down, just make sure you protect the crown.

Coop, you live not far from where I live. A range that would be VERY good for you is the San Gabriel Valley Gun Club, just off the 57 freeway in Duarte. The nearest offramp is Irwindale Avenue. They are a very organized range where you can do serious target shooting, out to 200 yards for non-members (forget "joining" the club, won't happen, but almost all of the range is open to non-members.) They are open every day but Mondays; wekends are of course busy.

Yes, by all means clean your gun before you shoot it! Lots of crap from the manufacturing process and handling afterwards winds up in barrels. Clean it from the rear, never the front. If you nick the front of your barrel where the bullet exits (this is called the crown) your gun will shoot poorly. Each time you bring it to the range, run a clean dry pacth down the bore before your first shot; if a bug crawled into your barrel and you fired a bullet through it your barrel will be ruined, and may evenb rupture and injure someone. This is important. Spend 30 bucks and get a one piece cleaning rod specific for your caliber. The 3 piece aluminum cheapies break and can damage your bore; besides, they just plain suck. Use a one piece rod once and you'll see what I mean.

Since you probably don't reload (yet,) buy yourself one box each of several different types and brands of ammunition. Buy different bullet weights. Take these to the range, and see which brand and bullet weight groups the best with your rifle. Each rifle is different, and some rifles shoot one type of ammo best. This has to do with the total harmonics of the rifle and ammunition and is not indicative of the "quality" of a particular maker's ammo. I've got four rifles in .30-06, and none of them like Winchester factory ammo. Some of them like Remington 165 grain bullets, another likes Remington 180 grain bullets better. None of them shoot as well with 150 grain bullets as they do with 165 grain bullets. I can develop handloads around any bullet weight that give the best groupings for that bullet weight in that particular gun, but the specifics (how much and what type of powder, bullet seating depth, etc.) will vary from rifle to rifle. Again, it is not hard to find the brand that your rifle likes best. It just takes a bit of time and money.

It is perfectly legal to order ammo off the internet. Try www.MidwayUSA.com, www.cheaperthandirt.com, among others. Walmart is hard to beat on price also. Big 5 is so so on price and selection; Turners is also so-so on price but very good on selection. These are all stores in our area. I would stay clear of Wolf brand ammo; I have heard reports that this has left rust in barrels despite claiming to be non-corrosive. Also be careful of old military surplus ammo, as this may be corrosive, and most ordinary bore cleaners won't clean the corrosive salts out of your barrel. If you stick with Remington, Winchester, PMC, AMerican Eagle (Federal) you need not worry.

Last piece of advice - - buy yourself a strap-on recoil shield. I am not joking; the cumulative effects of recoil will not only leave you with bruises and discomfort, they can damage your rotator cuff, requiring surgery. I know someone that this has happened to. A few rounds is no problem, but if you sit down and shoot 50 or 100 rounds in a day you will wish you had one. These can be had at better gun stores or fromMidway. Look for a PAST recoil shield. They come in different thicknesses, from field grade to Magnum. I use a field grade and it's all I need for .30-06, but if I was shooting anything heavier I would but a thicker version. It may set you back about 30 bucks.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

A guy next to me was shooting 8mm Mauser Olympic ammo. He had some experiences that have discouraged my from using this brand. Several of these rounds exhibited abnormally high pressure; the primers backed out of the primer pockets, he had to hammer the bolt to open it, and he could feel substantially more recoil than on his other rounds. He basically quit shooting that brand on the spot and switched over to surplus Turkish 8mm, which is corrosive but much more consitent in its loading.

I've read other posts about Olympic ammo that seemed negative, but can't remember specifics. I'd be cautious with it, just my 2 cents worth.

Good thing i didn't order it, so what's a good ammo to buy that isnt too expensive found pmc online for like 7.50 a box