Huntsalotey

With the model 788 Rem. rifle I just bought today, the barrel and action is in good shape, however, the stock is wore bad. It does not have any gashes or cuts in it just the finish is wore off.
I wanted to know how to refinish it beings I have never done any kind of finish work before. Also, I was told that after sanding it would turn out light colored because of the type of wood it was. I was wanting to know if there is a dark stain out there that the stock would take? Not cherry but something dark like it that rifles come in usually? thanks.

338

I just bought a 788 yesterday 1/17 .. and the gun sounds like it is in the same shape as yours and I want to refinish the stock also .. I have a friend that is a body man and I had him spray a couple of stocks with what he called "bumper paint " they are black in color and have a nice synthetic look to them so I think I might do that .. If interested I could ask what he would charge you .. Back to the stain you will need to sand your stock then go to a hardware store pick a color stain then coat it with a clear sealer wich you should be able to get at a gun shop ..Bill

Vapodog

I'm guessing that the stocks used on the 788 are Birch...maybe maple but I think birch....and the good news is that while they need to be stained for a dark finish, the pores of the wood are small compared to walnut.

You can get stains and finishes from any hardware store.....after all the 788 isn't a custom classic!! You also can get various stains and a spray on urethane (custom oil from Chem-Pak in satin or gloss) from Brownells. I'm very happy with this product.....

Make sure the stain is thoroughly dry before trying to apply a finish.

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Mark whiz

A lot depends on what kind of finish you would like................mainly hand-rubbed oil finish or a urethane type finish. You can sand the stock down well with finer grades of wet sandpaper, wetted with mineral Spirits - finishing it with fine steel wool. Brownell's ChestnutRidge Military stain will give you a reasonably dark finish which you can seal up by handrubbing with tung oil or Boiled Lindseed oil............ or you can lightly finish it with a urethane product.

Check out a stock I did here:
http://community.webshots.com/album/67733500TMxLnD

Ignatz

Yes most likely if you take much wood off sanding it the stain will come off. At most hardware stores they have a display that show what the stain will look like on the wood. Try the stain out on a part of the stock that doesn't show so if it isn't right no problem, in the barrel channel is good. Some people like the hand rubbed oil look but it seems that I'm hunting in the rain so I use high grade spar varnish thined out with turpintine and give it a few coats.

bigbulls

#1: Do not use steel wool on a wood stock. It will break off and imbed itself into the wood. Use wet - dry (automotive) sandpaper.

Start off with 100 grit sand paper. Sand off all of the old finish. Always sand in the direction of the grain of the wood and use a sanding block. Do not use your hand as a sanding block.

After all of the old finish is sanded off then procede to finer grits up to 320 grit making sure that all of the heavier sanding scraches are gone.

Wisker (lightly wet) the wood between each grit of sandpaper to allow the grain of the wood to rise. It will feel like little wiskers, hence the name. Continue to wisker the wood with 320 grit until the water no longer raises the grain of the wood.

Apply your desired stain to the wood now before you put any oil or other finish on the wood. Allow to dry for two or three days.

Now you can begin applying your finish. I suggest a hand rubbed oil finish. The spray on crap usually yellows and chips and flakes after time.

First you need to apply a lot of oil to the stock and allow it to soak up the oil. A good method for this is to get a plastic garbage bag and put about 1/2 to 1 cup of oil into the bag. Place your stock into the bag and get the air out. Tie the end and rub the bag all over your stock. This will get the oil everywhere on the stock with out making a mess. Now allow it to sit in the bag and oil for about 30 minutes. Do not use pure boiled linseed oil if you ever plan on doing any kind of bedding at all. Pure linseed oil never dries and will continue to seek its way to the rest of the wood. When it gets to the bedding it could make it come loose from the wood.


Now you get do do a "mud rub". This is to fill in the pores of the wood. Get your 320 grit wet dry paper and a small square eraser or other small sanding block. Wrap the sand paper around the eraser once so that you can get a good grip on it. Wet the sand paper with your oil and begin sanding the stock. Work in small sections at a time. You will see a "mud" begin to develope. After you have worked it into the pores wipe the excess off across the grain. Do the entire stock like this and then let it dry for a day. Continue doing this each day until all of the pores are completley filled. Then let it completely dry for two or three days.

After it has dried you can do one of two things.
#1: Begin lightly working up in sandpaper grit until you get your desired "sheen". Usually somewhere around 800 to 1200 grit is good.

#2: Begin with a hand rub.
For a hand rub simply use the same oil that you have been useing and dab a very small ammount to the palm of your hand and start rubbing in the direction of the grain. Make a little go a long ways and replenish as necessary. Do a hand rub and let it dry for a day. Do one each day until you get your desired "sheen". You will be done when the entire stock has an even finish through out.