Lets talk pistol oil and grease
 

Soon to purchase a front pocket .380. It'll be entry-level priced, that's all I can afford. One of these below and I early-on exluded the Kel-Tec pistol.
Kahr CW380
Ruger LCP
Taurus TCP738

Not looking to talk guns-itself here. Instead I want to hear what you're lubing your ramp, springs, slides, extractor, firing pin and triggers with. I'm leaning towards Tetra Gun Grease for the slides. Considering these oils for the rest....
G96 Gun Treatment
M-Pro7
Slip 2000 EWL
Quantum Hot Sauce Reel Oil


I use Ballistol or Breakfree CLP in my rifles. But I don't wear rifles next to my body. This new pistol will remain unholstered and in my front or side pocket.... and I don't want gun oil dripping into my pockets and down my leg.....lol

Not really interested in your homemade brands. Just store-bought stuff please. These entry-level type sub-compacts are sensitive creatures, for the slide is shortened. So I'm guessing I'll need to keep lubed-up pretty good .... even the ramp.

I would go with a Kahr, I carry a Kahr MK40 and it is almost as small as a .380 with much more punch and with an extended magazine will fit a large hand. I never grease the slide, grease has a bad habit of attracting dirt which will cause problems. I mostly run my slide dry with the exception of occasionally put about half a drop of Breakfree in each grove. Essentially I clean the gun each time I fire it and if I am in the rain I wipe it down lightly on the outside with a little G-96. The worst thing you can do to a semi handgun is to over lubricate it, it is a recipe for the gun to fail you. I have 3 semi auto handguns and I treat them all the same and they cycle perfectly. Cleanliness, not grease is what you want.

Why would your firearm be dropping in oil?

I run Hornady One Shot, Frog Lube, and G96 on my firearms. I use white lithium, tetra, and moly grease on dear interfaces.

I've pocket carried for ~15yrs, I've never had any of my carry pieces drip oil down my leg.

I can't understand why anyone would think it is ok or good to oil a gun so much that the oil drips off! Handgun, rifle or shotgun. I have seen many long guns over the years. with stocks darkened by over oiling the gun then sitting it butt stock down in a gun cabinet, and semi auto handguns that jam because of over lubing which catches powder residue and gunks up and slows down the action.

I tried CLP on all my revolvers and pistols for a first time a month ago. I would say it is impossible to remove it all by wiping it off so I just wiped down all the parts very thoroughly. Zero issues with too much lubrication. Very far from being close to dripping.

I already learned the bad side of over oiling. It was a Marlin levergun. On the next action disassembly the parts were gummed up and sticky. Just enough and not a drop more is the way to go.

FYI if you ever use a foaming bore cleaner on a rifle remove the action before applying the cleaner and stick many patches in the chamber to block it. If not you will have a sticky mess similar to over oiling.

rem-oil is all i use just clean your gun with what you use to do that and the just apply a little rem-oil with your fingers where you can reach and a very little with the spray attachment in the rails and all the moving parts trigger and such. i often wipe it off with one of those reel cloths.

I would highly reconsider carrying a gun in my pocket without a holster. It won't matter what kind of oil is on it when you shoot yourself. Carrying a gun in your pocket without a holster is not recommended by anyone I have ever heard of.

That being said I prefer synthetic.

Not only the safety aspect, but the drawing aspect as well. All kinds of problems can arise from a bare pistol in the pocket trying to draw and it getting hung up. Especially front pocket. Back pocket jeans it less likely to cause issue drawing but your looser trousers such as khakis can have the same problems hanging up as your front. Lots of pocket holsters designed to protect the trigger as well as aid in drawing without hangup.

Wrong!
With the heavy triggers (double-action-only) associated with most-all (2-3/4"barrel / 11ounce-type) pocket pistols..... they are safe to carry that way. It's certainly not an item you would share with something else in that pocket thou. The only time you would reach in that pocket, is to remove the handgun. Sure, there are situations when / where I wouldn't wear it that way. I would categorize those situations as seldom removed. A pocket holster would be used in those rare situations.

Hey, I'm not young and active anymore. I'm retired and it's rare when I engage in hours of physical activity or work around the house. I know when / when not to wear it that way. So does everyone else I know using that same M.O. I learned long & hard about this process thru my brother and next door neighbor cop, who-both have been carrying this way for at least 4-5 years now. Look, I'm not here to debate this segment of the topic-thread. Lets end this right here - right now.

As far as oil/grease, I'm leaning towards Tetra gun grease and G96 Synthetic Oil. I cannot find Slip 2000 EWL anywhere locally and I'll wait a little longer before ordering it on Amazon Prime @ 13.75 for the 4oz bottle. I'm getting a 2nd compact 9mm too, so I'll use Slip2000 in one - G96 in the other .380 and figure out eventually which one is the best for both handguns. Word is that G96 Synthetic is really slippery and not subject to residue or gumming or running. It bonds, long-lasting and so does the Slip 2000 EWL.

Thanks to everyone that replied here.

I've never had any problems using Lock-Ease.

Quig

I've heard of Lock-Ease being used in the barrel. Are you applying it on the inner parts too after cleaning?

Prior to this thread of 'new advice', I was always using Birchwood-Casey 2 In 1 Bore Scrubber -then Ballistol for the inner parts and Breakfree Collector for barrel rust-inhibitor.

I apply it to the inner parts too GB.

Are you using the aerosol can? Or the dripper bottle - then spread it with a patch, cotton swab or toothbrush?

Never spray your gun down with an aerosol spray, spray it in cloth and wipe down sparingly. You have the idea that a gun has to be saturated with lubricant, that could not be further from the truth. The east amount of lubricant is better than a lot of lubricant.

Give Frog Lube a look. It's good stuff.

Drip can and patch.

You can't say you are going to do something with a gun, that huge percentage of people think is unsafe and then say let's end it right here. That's not how these forums work. Here's a link for you. Lot's more info out there. Google is your friend. Good luck in whatever you decide.

http://www.usacarry.com/top-7-rules-pocket-carry/

OMG! Stop it already. My crowd that's declared we're safe, is all that matters. Youtube gun analyst Jeff from Gunblasts.com is in my crowd. He's been wearing his LCP unholstered in his front pocket for at least three years now.

Go ahead and tell him he's wrong too. I'm done with this. Anyone who replies on this alternative subject will just be scrolled over by me. Stick to the topic please.

Thanks to everyone that posted on-topic. I ended-up sticking with synthetics and getting Slip 2000EWL Oil and Tetra Gun Grease.

Taurus Millenium PT111 G2 (9mm)
(pending) Ruger LCP .380 (out of stock at all the big box stores)

NoMercy likes those LCP's and .380's as well. My hands are too darn big for them. Just can't get the right "feel" to where I feel I am as accurate as I would want to be in a bad situation. I do remember some years ago handling a Walther .380 (made in Germany I believe) that dang near fit me.

The LCP will be a non-holstered, front pocket conceal between 'roughly' May 1st and end of September (warm weather months here). If I ever need to squeeze the trigger using it, the bad guy or bad, loose, vicious pitbull during my dog walks should be no more than 20 feet away (at most).

If necessary, I will empty the magazine pretty quickly, using a two finger hold on the Ruger LCP grip. My hands are big also and the recoil from a hypothetical 86-95gr ACP bullet is not bad. Should not see any limp-wristing using it. The other seven months or-so wearing heavier clothes means using the little bigger 9mm as conceal-carry, wearing it using a OWB holster.

You must have some big ol' paws then - my wedding ring is size 13.

I would suggest using breakfree for any gun with moving parts. a couple drops goes a long way and is not noted for freezing up in cold weather.

Lets say WD 40 and let the comments roll.

If you want to be completely dry there is another option.

http://www.sandstromproducts.com/pdfs/e728.pdf

I learned of this company when I attended a Course entitled Corrosion Control and Prevention of Material Deterrioration presented at Rock Island Arsenal 30 years ago.

Dry film lubricant is the coating put on lots of M16 parts that does extremely well in prevention of corrosion and is very effective as a lubricant as well.

I don't get the aerosol, I prefer getting it by the pint and after mixing well I apply it with a model makers brush so you can put it right where you want it and there is no drips etc.

It was developed during Nam because the M16s were showing signs of deterrioration in the field and more and more parts have it called for on the drawings.

To give an idea of how tenacious this lubricant is I have a bush hog mower for my tractor I got new maybe five years back. Even though I greased the tail wheel prior to every use the 1" bolt axle was shot. The design of this one has rear discharge and the tail wheel is constantly being bombarded by sand, dirt, debris.

It even took out the bearings in the wheel. I got a new 1" grade 8 bolt and made new bushings out of steel stock I had on hand and instead of greasing it I coated the inside of the bushings with 27A and the axle and assembled it. I found I could run the bush hog 8 hours with no problem with one application.

Then they came out with 28A and I got some of it and I can run the bush hog about 11 to 12 hours. Been running this about four years now. Axle bolt is fine. I don't ever plan on going back to grease.

Now about every other time I used it for a long period I just tack up the back, remove the bolt and repaint the surfaces with it and let it dry and put it back together.