Bocajnala

I've wanted to get into longer range shooting for awhile. I know a guy with a Savage 112 in .300 RUM. The barrel is stainless. He says it's had about 100 rounds through it and he has some load data to go with it. Also a cheapy simmons scope is on it that I would put onto a .22 or something. He's asking $400. The scope really has no value to me. Good deal for a Savage 112 .300RUM with a stainless barrel and about 100 rounds through it?
-Jake

bronko22000

Jake, I'd say that is a good deal. Just looking at the prices on GA and gun broker. And that 300RUM is a pretty potent round. Definitely not a plinker.
Good luck

Bocajnala

I'm going to check those websites when I get close to a computer. Supposed to go see it Sunday. The guy said the barrel measures 24" FROM the front of the barrel nut. So is it a 26" tube?
-jake

super_hunt54

Thats 24 inches of USABLE barrel. Not including the chamber.

Bocajnala

Does the savage 112 have similar aftermarket options as the 110 would? Can I find stock, barrel, trigger options or will things be hard to find for that model?
-Jake

Sheridan

Looks like a good "deal", even with 100 rounds down a tube that has a relatively short life span.

My big concern would be $3 every time you squeeze the trigger.

Hunting only takes one shot once you have it zeroed, but long range shooting takes a lot of practice ($$$).

Not to mention buying a scope worthy of long range shooting.

Don't mean to sound like a downer - if you have the money, by all means !!!

Just some food for though Jake..........................

Nomercy448

For starters - for what it is, it's a pretty good deal. The 112 isn't made in the RUM currently, but you're not buying ANY 12/112 for $600 these days, so you're not finding a used one for $400.

Secondly, a buyer beware caution - barrel life isn't fantastic with the RUM's if someone ran them hard and fast, and I'm always very wary if someone says "under 100rnds fired" and "load data available." If he did load work-up, then he didn't get to do much with it before he hit 100rnds, so did it not perform? Or did he shoot it more than he's letting on? Or did he not really do much load work-up at long range?

But...

If you're wanting to get into long range shooting, what does that mean? Are you wanting to get into long range SHOOTING, or long range HUNTING?

RIFLE: The 300RUM Savage 112 is a hunting rifle, not a bench rifle, so it gives up certain concessions for that. Are you wanting a rifle to shoot from a bench or bipod that will offer supreme precision, or are you willing to compromise on weight and stability, and be relegated to slow fire to avoid stringing in the lighter barrel? Looking to restock/rebarrel/rebuild it, or shoot as is?

ROUND: The 300RUM also has a LOT of recoil and burns a lot of powder that isn't really necessary for long range SHOOTING - and debatably isn't advantageous for long range HUNTING. The RUM won't go trans-sonic until ~1500yrds, and will have over 500ft.lbs. carried on it - meaning at 1500yrds, it's virtually in line with a 357mag at the muzzle (with better SD). Are you wanting to kill Elk at 1500yrds? Or are you wanting to punch paper at 600-800yrds?

For $400, plus ~$50-250 in dies, and around $250 for brass, you won't be too far gone to get into it and get out within reason if you change direction.

Nomercy448

Same aftermarket offerings, except that they're a magnum length action instead of a long action. Not sure that the 112 Magnum is the same length as the 110/112 338 Lapua action or not.

So barrel and trigger, yup, easy to find. Stock, maybe less so.

Bocajnala

Thanks for the replies. Cost is of course a consideration. But I budget into a "gun fund" every week. When I have enough I buy what I need, if I don't have enough i continue to save until I do. I don't "need" this rifle to hunt, just something I've wanted to get into and sounded like a decent deal to me.

I also questioned his "load data" and only 100 rounds through it as well.

Nomercy, I'd like to eventually try to take a deer over 1,000.which means lots of paper to punch between now and then. That's not this season or next, and probably not for a long time. Just looking for a starting point. Right now I'd buy the rifle and probably need to wait until February or March before I can put good glass on it. So it'll definitely be a lengthy process.

Nomercy448

One thought...

If you're expecting about a year before you want to kill anything past 1,000, you might consider 2 rifles - and save this 300RUM for 8mos from now (but do buy it).

The barrel life isn't great on the RUM, and cost to shoot it is high, let alone recoil, so you might burn out the barrel before you get yourself capable of realizing the advantage of the RUM. As an example, I know that I couldn't capitalize on the advantage of Ridge Runner's 7Allen or 6.5 Gibbs or a 7Dakota over my 284win or 7mm Rem or 300win mags today. 10yrs ago, I could have, or maybe if I spent the next 6-8mos diligently practicing, but right now, I'd just be burning up barrels to practice my way back to that skill level with a 7mm Allen. I've been close to building a 338Lap a couple times in the last 2yrs, but if I'm honest with myself, any shooting I'd do past 1,000yrds would just mean it'd cost me more to miss just as much... I rebarreled my 6.5-284 to straight 284 for that reason - I wasn't practicing enough to be able to wring out the difference in potential between the higher bc, higher velocity 6.5 pills over the 7mm's.

You might come out ahead in skill level and finance if you picked up a 308win and spent 8mos to a year throwing pills at 600-800yrds from it, then bridged into the super-sport RUM when your skill gets up to the task of capitalizing on the ballistic advantages. Even shooting a 223rem fast twist with 75grn pills at 600-1000yrds can be a good option for learning the long range game.

That's a good deal on the RUM, I'm just thinking about how to maximize life on it, minimize your cost, and minimize your learning curve to be able to maximize the cartridge potential.