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For those who feel the long range itch

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For those who feel the long range itch

Old 01-29-2015, 02:19 PM
  #11  
Nontypical Buck
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Originally Posted by DJfan
Forgive this rookie, but what is BC?

Also, if you could address some of the other technical terms, I know I would appreciate it. I live in elk country, but have arthritis in my hips, so long shots are necessary. I have wanted to get into long range shooting.

Thanks for any time on this.
BC = Ballistic coefficient, basicly a comparative measurement that tells you how well a given bullet slips though the air, the higher the number the better it resists air, have shot bullets with a BC of .84, ungodly the way they fly and retain energy

MOA minute of angle, a unit angular of measurement equal to 1/60th of 1 degree, it actually equals 1.0473" per 100 yards of range, as you train your mind to think in terms of moa instead of inches of drop, it gets easier
RR

Last edited by Ridge Runner; 01-29-2015 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 01-29-2015, 03:11 PM
  #12  
Nontypical Buck
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Default Mounting your scope on your long range Rig

I pretty much am ANAL about this, takes several hours for me to do it to suit me, don't answer the phone, the wife, nothing, I'm busy
here are the steps I take
remove the plug screws from the receiver
degrease the screw holes
remove the base from the packaging
use a scotch brite pad on the bearing surfaces
mix up a bit of jb weld or other suitable 2 part epoxy
put a thin skim on the base
start your screws, and snug them


disclaimer here, this is how I do it, it works but ya need a bit of experience and you must be familiar with the terms used, you read torque the screws to XX in./lbs, well my mechanical background has proven to the that threaded fasteners hold best if tightened down till they just start to stretch, too much they break, a little bit too much and they break when you try to take them off, its something you have to have a "feel" for

tighten the base screws till you feel them start to stretch, no more
now, clean up the epoxy that oozed out when you tightened the screws, gumcutter 2+2 and q-tips work as well as anything
attach your rings to the base
lay your scope in the cradle, noting how eye relief fits
put top half of your rings on
(CNC machined rings do not need to be lapped)
start all the screws, turn them in till they are not yet snug
make sure the top halves are level and even on both sides

Now every rifle that I'm going to use for distance has a 12 dollar level clamped to the base


attach your level
level the rifle
sight at a plumb verticle line, I use a line on my paneling at the end of my hallway its a distance of 50'
turn your scope so the reticle matches the plumb line
snug the screws
level your rifle again
sight at the same plumb line with your rifle solid,
turn your up/down turret stop to stop, if the reticle leaves the plumb line then loosen up the ring screws, turn your scope a bit, then repeat till the reticle crawls straight up the verticle line

I don't care if the reticle looks crooked, I want it to track dead straight up plumd when I turn the up knob with the rifle level.

almost done

now take a small mirror, hold it against the objective end of the scope, turn the scope to its lowest power and look through it
you'll see the reticle, and its reflection in the mirror
turn the up/dn, lt/rt knobs until the reflection is directly in line with the reticle
(your scope is now mechanicly centered)
if you have a 20 moa base, turn the turret 20 moa down, you should be within a couple inches at 100
RR
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Old 01-29-2015, 06:50 PM
  #13  
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".......not easy for a backwoods hick, so if I can do it, anyone can." RR

I especially like this part - LOL !!!

Humble too.......................
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Old 01-29-2015, 07:56 PM
  #14  
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Thanks RR. I used to be a math teacher. Some of that stuff appeals to me.

I would LOVE to see a youtube of you setting the scope as you described.

I was given a scope recently, after the passing of Mrs. Fan's uncle. Wondering if it's any good. It's a Simmons ProSport 6-18x50 A/O Riflescope (Matte Black) . Here's a link to one site's info on it. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...18x50_A_O.html

I haven't mounted it on anything, as I only have one big game rifle - my MOssberg 30-.06. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks for all of this!
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Old 01-30-2015, 02:46 PM
  #15  
Nontypical Buck
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Originally Posted by Sheridan
".......not easy for a backwoods hick, so if I can do it, anyone can." RR

I especially like this part - LOL !!!

Humble too.......................
a guy who makes his living with a chainsaw and a cement trowel is definitely not the sharpest tool in the shed
RR
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Old 01-30-2015, 03:23 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Ridge Runner
a guy who makes his living with a chainsaw and a cement trowel is definitely not the sharpest tool in the shed
RR
I would think not. Isn't that trowel tough on that chain on that saw!?!?!?!??! I couldn't pass it up.
And yes, I defiantly hear ya and fully agree with ya, for I am in the same boat!!!!
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Old 01-30-2015, 07:39 PM
  #17  
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I see a lot of guys who sit in an office who are already well beyond their years.


There is something to be said for putting in a hard days work !!!
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Old 02-14-2015, 04:31 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Ridge Runner
I pretty much am ANAL about this, takes several hours for me to do it to suit me, don't answer the phone, the wife, nothing, I'm busy
here are the steps I take
remove the plug screws from the receiver
degrease the screw holes
remove the base from the packaging
use a scotch brite pad on the bearing surfaces
mix up a bit of jb weld or other suitable 2 part epoxy
put a thin skim on the base
start your screws, and snug them


disclaimer here, this is how I do it, it works but ya need a bit of experience and you must be familiar with the terms used, you read torque the screws to XX in./lbs, well my mechanical background has proven to the that threaded fasteners hold best if tightened down till they just start to stretch, too much they break, a little bit too much and they break when you try to take them off, its something you have to have a "feel" for

tighten the base screws till you feel them start to stretch, no more
now, clean up the epoxy that oozed out when you tightened the screws, gumcutter 2+2 and q-tips work as well as anything
attach your rings to the base
lay your scope in the cradle, noting how eye relief fits
put top half of your rings on
(CNC machined rings do not need to be lapped)
start all the screws, turn them in till they are not yet snug
make sure the top halves are level and even on both sides

Now every rifle that I'm going to use for distance has a 12 dollar level clamped to the base


attach your level
level the rifle
sight at a plumb verticle line, I use a line on my paneling at the end of my hallway its a distance of 50'
turn your scope so the reticle matches the plumb line
snug the screws
level your rifle again
sight at the same plumb line with your rifle solid,
turn your up/down turret stop to stop, if the reticle leaves the plumb line then loosen up the ring screws, turn your scope a bit, then repeat till the reticle crawls straight up the verticle line

I don't care if the reticle looks crooked, I want it to track dead straight up plumd when I turn the up knob with the rifle level.

almost done

now take a small mirror, hold it against the objective end of the scope, turn the scope to its lowest power and look through it
you'll see the reticle, and its reflection in the mirror
turn the up/dn, lt/rt knobs until the reflection is directly in line with the reticle
(your scope is now mechanicly centered)
if you have a 20 moa base, turn the turret 20 moa down, you should be within a couple inches at 100
RR


Good information here. Thanks
-Jake
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