ChasingTrophiesTV

A buddy of mine has a Ruger Redhawk chambered in .44 mag. He had purchased this gun off a fellow who had said it was at one point the most accurate high caliber pistol he had shot. Whenever he had bought the gun we tried working a couple loads through the gun at a relatively close range (10 yards). We could not find any loads that would shoot remotely good. We had a hard time even hitting a 10" by 10" target at ten yards. We were thinking maybe the possibility of the previous owner running to hot of loads through it cause frame stretching or maybe an issue with cylinder headspace. I'm not gunsmith but what are the options here is this something Ruger covers?? We filmed a short video of the gun when he had first purchased the gun I'm not sure if you would be able to get any idea of the issue from the video or not but here is a link: http://youtu.be/SKvY5w9rAMg

any help would be appreciated!

Bbj270

I never had good luck with American eagle ammo. For restorative I use either umc or Winchester white box. I would take it to a gunsmith and have them check it out for you.

Nomercy448

Watched the video. I'll save everyone else trying to diagnose issues with his revolver the time, the video isn't helpful in the least.

First off, there is no such issue as excessive headspace in a cylinder. Revolvers chambered for rimmed cartridges like the .44mag headspace on the rim. Frame stretch is a real concern, but often gives itself away, but I won't go into details here.

Secondly, you don't give any information as to what types of groups you are getting. "Not hitting a 10"x10" page at 10yrds doesn't mean anything if it's putting 6 shots in a 1" circle 3" off of the page (i.e. you may just need to sight in your weapon).

The question I'd have after watching your shooting technique(s):

Do you have experience with other handguns in which you CAN hit a 10"x10" page at 10yrds? Has another proven pistol shooter handled the revolver to try out groups? I have taken in many revolvers in the last decade that the owners said were terribly inaccurate, but in my hands, would put up fantastic accuracy. I have a Taurus 85 on my bench right now that the owner was trying to sell because they didn't think it could hit the broadside of a barn. 15yrd 5 shot groups that fit under a quarter with FN FMJ's in my wife's hands last week convinced him it wasn't the revolver.

After watching the video, I can think of one specific test I'd like to do with you shooting this revolver that involves me loading the gun and you shooting it, but I can't tell you, otherwise it'd ruin the test Here's a hint - Looks to me like you flinch like crazy.

Have you shot it from a suitable rest, rather than offhanded?

Diagnosing revolvers is actually very straight forward, but if you're not familiar with it, I'd highly recommend you take it to a qualified pistolsmith (not all gunsmiths are qualified to work on, or experienced with handguns). If you insist on diagnosing yourself, I can give you some pointers, but for what it's worth, if there's an issue, you won't be able to fix it anyway, so you might as well take it in. There's nothing that doctors love more than patients self-diagnosing their diseases.

As far as Ruger warranty work goes, at least it's a Ruger. Ruger has one of, if not THE best reputations for customer service and acceptance of warranty work in the business. However, accuracy is a hard pill to swallow. You may very well send it to them then get a piece of paper back saying that they shot it and the accuracy is within their guarantees. Don't be telling Ruger that you know the previous owner was shooting heavy reloads though, as that will void your warranty. I'm not sure what the revolver accuracy specification for Ruger is, but the rifle "guarantee" is around 1.5", so don't expect them to turn it into a match pistol for you.

First thing they will ask, however, is "what ammo have you shot in it?". If all you have fired is cheap bulk stuff, then they won't be inclined to fix it until you've put some proper ammo through it.

More than happy to help diagnose revolver troubles, one of my favorite joys in life in fact, so if you want the help, I'd offer it. BUT, in this case, taking it to a qualified smith is likely your best option.

homers brother

I've had this revolver's identical twin since I turned 21.

I've never had any complaints with mine. Junk ammo, good ammo, .44 specials, hot reloads.

I do have a couple of observations from the video. The recoil seems just a bit exaggerated. The shooter needs to be in complete control. The .44 isn't wimpy, but it's not something that should be throwing itself back toward the shooter like it is here. Handle it like you're in charge of it, not the other way around. I also think I saw a hint of a flinch. Here's an experiment: Shoot a couple full cylinders, then leave two random chambers empty. It'll be pretty obvious when the hammer falls on an empty chamber whether or not the shooter is flinching.

Nomercy448

That's the trick I would pull on him if I knew him in person. Load 5 live rounds and one empty brass. When the gun goes "click" and still jumps 6", you know something is up.

But everybody points the finger at the equipment. Sometimes that's the problem, sometimes it's not. But that's what everybody points at first.

Ferguson Outfitters

Try this:

nchawkeye

Flinching and twisting the gun, the first guy is consistently shooting high...Get the fellow that sold you the gun to show you how to shoot...

Blackelk

Just like a magnum rifle you will have to hold just a tad tighter to get consistent groups from a lot of magnum revolvers. You can hold a 22lr pretty loose and get a decent group(not promoting this as accuracy what so ever). On a lot of magnums you actually have to really concentrate on holding the gun in position as it goes off. Shoot it loose and all most all of them will be inaccurate. It don't have to be a magnum to shoot poorly if your not holding the gun on the target the whole time before the bullet leaves the barrel. Try a flintlock pistol and that will more than prove what I'm saying.

Here's how I shoot a pistol or revolver to help eliminate extra movement while shooting. My grip consists of mainly the last two fingers on the grip. The third finger and the pinky finger. You can use those two fingers to grip it real tight and not cause it to shake or and to pull left or right depending on which hand you use. The middle finger doesn't have much pressure on the grip and of course relaxes your trigger finger in the process. It makes a L shape pressure on your grip being your saddle between the first finger and thumb also applies pressure on the grip. For me it really brings a lot of control to left and right issues and muzzle jump. The supporting hand is mainly your stabilizer. I maybe totally full of crap on this but it sure has enhanced my shooting with handguns.

Nomercy448

This only really applies if someone has a regular problem, whch implies a consistent technique. Doubting that's applicable for this case based on the videos.

BCRules

I have the exact same gun, but with a 2-8 scope on it.

Shoot it off sandbags. I am getting 3" groups at 50 yards with 240gr xtp's and 23gr of H110. I am getting 4" groups with 240gr SWC from Lyman 2 blend and 11gr of Unique