limb saver on barrell
07-09-2013, 04:55 AM
#1
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wichita Kansas USA
Posts: 699
limb saver on barrell
has anyone had experience with these? do they really help groups? i bought one and have not had the opprotunity to shoot with it on. the installation was easy and the adjustment for your gun sounds kinda hit and miss.
07-09-2013, 05:11 AM
#2
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: North East PA. but not home.
Posts: 743
I have a couple of them,but,like you,i have not got to try and play with them! I've read a few places of people using them and they say it can make a difference? You must watch one thing,gun solvent will melt the darn things!!!!!
07-09-2013, 08:37 AM
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,903
Fully recognizing that I'm earning my screenname with this one...
The slip on dampeners make too many assumptions...
Ultimately, you have to have a harmonics problem for them to even be any benefit at all, which isn't always the issue with less-than-superb accuracy.
Secondly, a dampener (in the truest sense) CANNOT cause a 'disharmonic' barrel to become harmonic. Ballast can do that, but that's not what you're buying in the dampeners (ballast changes the vibrational frequency and/or node locations of the barrel). Dampeners will only reduce the magnitude of the disharmonics. Personal expectation: the ballast contribution supercedes that of the dampening provided by limbsavers.
Strapping ballast (essentially the dampener = dead weight) to the wrong part of a barrel can actually DECREASE accuracy by providing an additional vibrational node, and/or focal load.
Is the amount of dampening or ballast load provided by the fixed size of the limbsaver appropriate for the magnitude of disharmonics? Millions of barrels out there, but only one limbsaver design? Too much or too little = ineffective, or inefficient at best.
Positional testing is critical. You might shoot out your barrel just testing where that dampener should be positioned.
Should you have 2 dampeners/ballast? 3?
To me, it's much like the statement "inflate your tires to 45psi they'll go and they'll be more efficient." Which is very likely a correct solution for passenger cars. Then you take that to a guy that rides motocross and suddenly his front tire doesn't grip worth a dang and he can't keep his bike on the track because his tire is too hard. Or you take it to an 18wheeler that suddenly has 18 flats because his tires were too soft.
It's cheap, so if it helps at all, you're not out much, but for my money, I'm not interested in a one-size-fits-all solution that doesn't really have a good foundation to stand on.
The slip on dampeners make too many assumptions...
Ultimately, you have to have a harmonics problem for them to even be any benefit at all, which isn't always the issue with less-than-superb accuracy.
Secondly, a dampener (in the truest sense) CANNOT cause a 'disharmonic' barrel to become harmonic. Ballast can do that, but that's not what you're buying in the dampeners (ballast changes the vibrational frequency and/or node locations of the barrel). Dampeners will only reduce the magnitude of the disharmonics. Personal expectation: the ballast contribution supercedes that of the dampening provided by limbsavers.
Strapping ballast (essentially the dampener = dead weight) to the wrong part of a barrel can actually DECREASE accuracy by providing an additional vibrational node, and/or focal load.
Is the amount of dampening or ballast load provided by the fixed size of the limbsaver appropriate for the magnitude of disharmonics? Millions of barrels out there, but only one limbsaver design? Too much or too little = ineffective, or inefficient at best.
Positional testing is critical. You might shoot out your barrel just testing where that dampener should be positioned.
Should you have 2 dampeners/ballast? 3?
To me, it's much like the statement "inflate your tires to 45psi they'll go and they'll be more efficient." Which is very likely a correct solution for passenger cars. Then you take that to a guy that rides motocross and suddenly his front tire doesn't grip worth a dang and he can't keep his bike on the track because his tire is too hard. Or you take it to an 18wheeler that suddenly has 18 flats because his tires were too soft.
It's cheap, so if it helps at all, you're not out much, but for my money, I'm not interested in a one-size-fits-all solution that doesn't really have a good foundation to stand on.
07-09-2013, 07:55 PM
#6
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 5,130
"Positional testing is critical. You might shoot out your barrel just testing where that dampener should be positioned." Nomercy
Called empirical evidence - right ?
...............and I'll enjoy shooting out my barrel.
In fact, I'll enjoy shooting out ALL my barrels !!! :-)
BTW - 'disharmonic' ...............What ??
"Fully recognizing that I'm earning my screenname with this one..." Nomercy
You will NEVER need a reason to apologize too me !!!
Called empirical evidence - right ?
...............and I'll enjoy shooting out my barrel.
In fact, I'll enjoy shooting out ALL my barrels !!! :-)
BTW - 'disharmonic' ...............What ??
"Fully recognizing that I'm earning my screenname with this one..." Nomercy
You will NEVER need a reason to apologize too me !!!
Last edited by Sheridan; 07-09-2013 at 08:01 PM.
07-13-2013, 09:56 AM
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,834
Have one on one of my 220 Swifts and just for S&G's bought one of these to test it out. Had loaded up 200 of its pet loads that were consistantly printing sub 1/2" groups.
Took it to range and started out with a fresh cleaned barrel. Fired a fouling round.
Started with it 4 inches from muzzle. Fired 5 shots, spaced one minute apart and let stand 10 minutes. Cleaned barrel. Swabbed with patch n solvent, 10 strokes with nylon brush from breach with bore guide. Dry patch, fouling round, start again.
Long story short, fired all rounds, spent all day, back yard range. Come to find out that 90% of the groups didn't change that much till I got with in 1-1/2" of forearm and the groups went nearly sub 1/4". Ran out of ammo by this time. Loaded more ammo, same everything across the board, back out same day.
Went up against forearm, rounds got wild. Backed out to just at 1" and groups went back tight again. like just before. Left it at just about 1 to 1-1/2" and it drives nails. My personal experience.
Took it to range and started out with a fresh cleaned barrel. Fired a fouling round.
Started with it 4 inches from muzzle. Fired 5 shots, spaced one minute apart and let stand 10 minutes. Cleaned barrel. Swabbed with patch n solvent, 10 strokes with nylon brush from breach with bore guide. Dry patch, fouling round, start again.
Long story short, fired all rounds, spent all day, back yard range. Come to find out that 90% of the groups didn't change that much till I got with in 1-1/2" of forearm and the groups went nearly sub 1/4". Ran out of ammo by this time. Loaded more ammo, same everything across the board, back out same day.
Went up against forearm, rounds got wild. Backed out to just at 1" and groups went back tight again. like just before. Left it at just about 1 to 1-1/2" and it drives nails. My personal experience.
