fritz-as stated above i have taken the gun to a remington repair center in tulsa and am waiting to hear back from them as to wether it is the gun or me. if it is me i will install a muzzle brake and hope for the best. while in alaska i shot my outfitters 338wm with a muzzle brake and had excellent results. wether it was the fear of the recoil that caused my problem i don't know. i also shot the outfitters 375H&H with no problems.

With a new barrel I really doubt it's the rifle. I've had a lot of M700s and except for thin barreled Mountain Rifles all shot better than MOA. To me that leaves three things:

1-Shooting bench. Rock solid setup or not?
2-Shooter.
3-Optic. New scope or old? Did you try swapping scopes?

I'd say that more than 90% of the bad shooting I see at the range is shooter related problems, not gun problems.

1-shooting off lead sled-rock solid
2-shooter is always the first ? i did have a friend shoot for me with same results
3-optics is a brand new leupold-not cheap

hopefully the remington repair center can figure it out for me.

I too have owned several 700's and they have all been shooters right out of the box except for one...a 7MM Mag...couldn't hit the board side of a barn from the inside! Sent it back to Remington and they replaced everything but the wood...said the barrel was bent and there was no sign of abuse...has shot MOA or better ever since. I still have that 7MM and a 270 which happens to be one of the best shooting rifles I have ever owned. If you have sent it back to Remington and even after a replaced barrel and trigger you have the same results? Gotta say there's not much chance it's the rifle at this point...try shooting some decent quality ammo (Core-Lokts are junk)...pick up a couple of boxes of ammo loaded with premium bullets (Barnes, Nosler, Speer, Hornady, etc...) in a couple different bullet weights and head to the range. I would also double check the scope...I know Lupy's are considered high quality scopes, but they have been known to fail (especially the lower end ones...VX I, II and III's)...I stopped buying Lupy's awhile ago after having a VX-III fail on my 7MM Mag (retical failed due to recoil), IMO they aren't as good as they once were. Check all of the scope bases and mount screws (use blue lock-tite) as heavier recoiling rifles do knock scope bases/rings lose at times...especially if you are using the Lupy Dove-Tailed bases (double/triple check them for tightness) which is the reason I now prefer Warne and Millett rings/bases these days over Lupy's.

I personally suspect the ammo...not all rifles shoot everything dumped down the barrel well...

Just curious, what size groups are you getting?

As stated earlier every gun has its preferred loads. My M77 MKII 338 winny liked 185 Hornady GMX's for factory ammo. Last year I think I got a box or two for less than $40. Might be worth trying.

Based on what I've seen the monometal bullets due on deer I think they would work pretty good on some of the bigger critters.......

If I had your problems I would find someone that knows what they are doing help you with some proper handloads. They would measure your chamber to get the right length for the bullet that is to be loaded. The SAMMI standard lengths may not be the best fit for your chamber. A couple of different bullets along with a couple of different powders and a couple range days should eliminate any concern about ammo being the problem.
Handloaded ammo is usually much better than factory, and much less expensive to boot.

How about finding that guy at the range that shoots "clover leafs" with their gun.

Ask him to put 5 rounds down range for you with your .338 WM.

Trying to find a problem like this is a process of elimination. Here's the steps I would take in your situation:
1) give the barrel a good cleaning to remove all copper
2) pull the scope and remount to eliminate a mounting issue
3) pull barrelled action from stock and reseat to proper torque settings
4) patiently try several factory loads waiting between shots for barrel to cool
5) swap scope with one that you know is working correctly
6) replace the nut behind the trigger

After we have eliminated the above easy and obvious, then and only then would I start working on the hardware of the rifle. Since the barrel and trigger have been swapped, I'd bed the action and make sure the barrel is floated. If she still doesn't shoot, time to either bring her to a quality smith or get rid of it.

All excellent suggestions Wayspr...I would also add...if this is a new barrel, completing a methodical barrel break in may be necessary...not all rifles require this to be accurate, but many do.

Here is one of many recommended break in procedures, and the one I use most often.

http://www.larrywillis.com/Barrel.html

If it is a synthetic stock and the action is torqued down proper you should not need to bed the action. A synthetic stock does not move like a wood stock, even a wood stock doesnt need to be bedded if it fits correctly and torqued down properly, it wont move. My 338WM is a 700 BDL and is over 25 years old, wood stock and I have never bedded the action, or done any trigger work on it, POI has never changed other than when I have changed scopes. It will shoot under a MOA with almost any bullet I put down range with it. I would do like Sheridan said, find someone at the range that has experience with stout kicking guns that shoots really good and let them give it a shot. Not everyone can shoot a 338 WM, that is why you dont see alot of people shooting them.