Recoil chart.......
 

Can anyone give me a link to a chart that shows the actual recoil "curve" from start to finish?

What I mean is, a chart that shows the how the recoil in a high velocity magnum caliber is different than the recoil of a big bore caliber.

Something that shows the different between a caliber that feels more like a "jab" than a big "push"

Make sense?

Almost like a chart that shows the force draw curve for different cams on a compound bow........

you're gonna need more of a formula...
your talkin about how much energy your puttin out...
how heavy the gun is..
how small/big the cal is..
how long/short the barrel is ..
and a bunch of other things ....
i would think that stanard balistics can give ya an idea..
maybe one could say that the energy, or muzz velocity or something could give ya an idea on what kicks what.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm

this may help.

I couldn't agree more ...fit is #1, then all the other methods can help. Pad, Brake, etc. Don't know much about those mercury recoil reducers.

My 30/06 fits me unbelievably well. I can shoot it as comfortably as my 6.5 X 55 Swede's which fit me ok.

Another thing to keep in mind is, there is several different formulas out there, all similar, but will give different free recoil numbers. Theres one formula out there that is supposed to give a more realistic calculation for the high velocity cartridges, and so on. The main thing is to consider them only as a generalization, make comparisons using the same table to give a rough idea of what you are in for. Ive seen tables list my 300RUM as having anywhere from 35ft-lbs of recoil to over 45ft lbs. All I can tell you, it does kick hard,lol. The recoil velocity, the other number that is calculated with the energy, is what determines if it is a slow push, or a hard jab. Again, use it as a guide, not the rule. Calculate a gun you have shot, actual weight(scope and ammo included), and see the numbers you get. That can help give you a sense of how bad something is.

Is there a particular cartridge that you are wanting to know the recoil on? Chances are, one of us have shot it, and can give feedback. Remember, a poor fitting gun will beat you harder then a magnum rifle that fits you.

I think I did a poor job in my original post explaining what I was looking for....
Not really looking for a chart showing foot pounds of recoil or recoil speed/velocity....plenty of those out there.

If any of you are bowhunters, think about it this way........

If you chart the draw cycle of a very SMOOTH cam on a compound bow, you will see that it has a slow but steady rise to peak draw weight, a rather short time at peak weight, and then a slow/gradual decent into the let off weight.

If you chart a very AGGRESSIVE cam for a speed bow, it will have a VERY quick rise to peak draw weight, and a longer time at that peak draw weight, finishing with a very sharp drop off into the let off weight.

Think about if you could chart the recoil in an average weight rifle for something like a .300 Ultra Mag.
I would expect to see a very sharp/fast peak to maximum recoil force and then a sharp drop off........showing why most folks say the .300 Ultra recoils with a sharp "jab".

Then, think about charting a .375 H&H Mag. I would expect a slower rise to peak recoil force, then a longer time at the upper levels of recoil force, then a slower drop off........showing why I hear most folks talk about the .375 H&H as a VERY big "push".

Does that make anymore sense?????

Problem with recoil charts is they do not account for powder wieght. Which makes all the difference in the world.

Shoot whatever caliber you "need" to get the job done, & make sure to bring enough gun !

Unless you are going to be bench shooting with it all the time.


Right tool for the right job IMO !!!

schoolcraft,

I'm not sure you're going to find the chart you're looking for.

Are you looking for a specific comparison by chance? ie avoiding the big sharp kicking calibers?

My general idea for this is when you're shooting a big bullet at fast speeds you get fast sharp kicks with large amounts of recoil, ie 180-250gr bullets at 3000 fps+
ie the 300 mags, 340wby etc...kick hard and fast, and

I've heard the 378wby is particularly one of the if not the most brutal kicking rifle out there.

my 300 and 340mag both kick hard/fast, not a fun rifle to shoot off the bench for many rounds.

my 270 is a puppy dog, imo these size round are very easy fun tun to shoot, a 375+ imo becomes more of a big push than a sharp kick.

on that chart i showed you....recoil velocity may be an indicator you're looking for...

Here, this maybe a little more usefull to you.

http://huntamerica.com/recoil_calculator/

It will tell you the energy of recoil and the velocity of recoil.

The firearm design, weight, balance, materials and how it fits you are all factors in felt recoil.

Chamber pressure is one factor in a snappy recoil. Chamber pressure is more noticeable in handguns. Try shooting and comparing the felt recoil in the same magnum firearm of the following using the same bullet weight.

.38 Special vs. .357 Mag fired in the same .357 mag revolver
.44 Special vs. .44 Mag fired in the same .44 mag revolver

Then look at the difference in the chamber pressures.

You will need different firearms for the following, unless you have a model with interchangeable barrels. Use the same model if possible. Compare full power non+P loads with the same bullet weight in the following.

.45 ACP vs. .40 S&W

Chamber pressure is not the only factor, but it is one of the factors.

From the site above: http://huntamerica.com/recoil_calculator

Was surprised how much the recoil numbers go exponentially.
Here's a few of my rifles with the recoil numbers and comments on how they "feel":

22LR - RE = 0, RV = 1 Nothing

270 - RE = 13, RV = 9 Ok, pleasant to shoot off bench all day.

7.5x55 - RE = 18, RV = 11 Still Ok off bench but not really pleasant for long periods.

8x57 - RE = 20, RV = 12 I'm reaching for a towel to fold-up over the butt stock!

9.3x62 - RE = 31, RV = 15 Numbers don't seem to describe this recoil.
This one will hurt you off the bench. Its broken 2 scopes and put 13 stitches over my eye! I don’t notice the recoil hunting but my shoulder will be noticeably sore that evening.

458WM - RE = 61, RV = 22 A beast!!!
First time off the bench, recoil jarred front sight loose, front swivel ripped my hand and tore up one of my sand bags. Also, had a headache for rest of the day. Shooting game, I notice maybe recoil but the muzzle jump WILL get my attention and shoulder WILL hurt afterwards!

As I recall, thats why alot of safari class magnums have the front sling swivel on the barrel, instead of on the stock, so it wont tear you up.
Im getting about 46ft lbs for recoil energy and 18 fps for recoil velocity for my 300RUM according to that. My 375H&H, Im getting slightly less energy but same recoil velocity. I can shoot the 375 alot in comparison to the 300, which I can shoot a fair amount. My 45/70 comes in at 38ft lbs for RE and 18fps for RV. Its a pretty nasty hit too. From all of that, what I can tell you is, the closer, or further over 3000fps bullet speed you go, and the lighter the rifle, the faster the recoil pulse will actually be. The 375, with a mild 2500fps, and a decent weight, 8.5lbs or so without a scope, some go 9lbs, its going to absorb some of that fast pulse, and turn it into more of a steady push that you can learn to manage very well. Now my 45/70, its not a high velocity gun, and is only throwing a 350gr slug out. The difference I will say on it is, its fairly light for that heavy of a bullet, so it throws it back at you before it gets moving. Only real way you're going to know how guns kick is to shoot them, and lots of experience.

You are correct, some do - some don't but should!

After that 1st session w/ my 458, I had the barrel cut back 3", the front site reinstalled and the front swivel moved from the bottom of the forearm to the front tip. See:

BEFORE


AFTER

Nice rifle Ray!

How funny Ray, thats my rifle, in 375! Same color laminated model 798. I think the 26" barrel is a tad too long myself, and have thought of cutting it back a couple of inches myself. How much did it cost? I did see they made a limited run of the 798s in 458, with a 22" barrel and walnut stock. When I bought my 375, they had several in 458. I nearly bought one, but as you found, I thought they were too light for that caliber, so I went with 375. I should say that IMO, 375 class guns are good in the 8.5-9lb range for handling. 416's, Ive yet to figure their ideal weight, but 9-9.5? And the 458s, a nice heavy barrel, and nearly 10lbs or so.

Also will add, I lapped my action to smooth it out some. Now it feels like it should.

WOW - Where to start?

The Rem 798 is a control round feed Mauser action. I purposely customized that rifle to be an easy carry-around DG stopper. When the front site came loose I also noticed how little barrel thickness was left at the end with that light contour. Was concerned that any drop or rough use could dent the end of the barrel. So cutting 3" off the barrel killed 2 birds - 23" was much easier to carry and the barrel thickness at the end was doubled.

Your right the recoil is horrendous with the rifle weghing just under 8 Lbs. But remember, that's was the concept for the rifle - Easy carry. It will kick the snot out of ya, but on the other hand so will whatever is coming at you - so take your pick!

Unlike shooting my other rifles, it took me a lot of practice to learn the firm both hands grip while pulling it toward me into my shoulder technique. Sighted in at 50 yds its also back dead on at 100. I can hit a milk jug at 50 and follow-up hitting another one at 25 now.

As far as cost; the barrel cut, sight drilled & reinstalled, swivel moved & the original hole plugged, plus the bolt jeweled - Well you would either laugh or cry. I get inexpensive gunsmithing - so can't help with what it may cost you.

Perhaps you need the chamber cut for the LOTT,lol. You could load it down closer to 45/70 loads, but it will still kick. Compared to the model 70 safaris, these barrels are light. Being a smaller bore, mine has more metal on it then yours though. Havent had, wait, havent shot mine with a sling on it yet, guess I better soon, and see if it tries to bite me. Notice the rough machine marks inside your action? Lil JB bore compound, and some boredom fixed that. Not real thrilled with the sights, thinking of a lower powered scope to put on top of it for this fall. Have an itch to take it elk hunting.