Does anyone know how tight the front and rear action screws are to be torqued too , I called Savage and they say just snug.What is snug ?

Use the short part of the allen wrench to tighten it, and you won't get it too tight that way. Then, use the long part of the allen wrench and turn it a little so it feels firm but not strained. Bout as good as I can describe it

I have a FAT Wrench that I use to set lbs. set to the screw I have been told 45 to 65 lbs.

I have the same rifle in .223 (my fiancee's rifle actually). Recommended torque is between 45-65in-lbs typically, however, ours seems to shoot best at 60in-lbs (my fiancee has only been shooting for a little over a year, but she posts 0.15-0.3MOA with this rifle, she gets better every time she shoots it!).

Thanks for the info the 60 lbs is on the front and middle screw only and the rear behind trigger what do you set it at . Thanks

To maintain regular pressure and bedding along the action, I keep the torque even for both action bolts... 60in-lbs each...

It's a good idea to take a FAT or other in-lb torque wrench to the range and test out different bedding torques. Most rifles don't exhibit much change in accuracy for a pretty broad range (i.e. 55 vs 65in-lbs), but some do. It just so happens that when I tested my fiancee's rifle, 60lbs came out the best group each cycle. It's also good for my peace of mind, because I'd rather have the action screws as tight as can be without doing damage or negatively affecting accuracy.

Grab a couple boxes, a torque wrench, and your cleaning kit, and head to the range. Adjust the torque to 45lbs, and take 1 shot (off target), then fire a 3 shot group. Clean the rifle. Adjust to 50lbs, fire one shot off target, then fire another 3 shot group. Clean the rifle. Repeat for 55, 60, and 65in-lbs. Then repeat the process in reverse, decreasing from 65 to 45. If you have the time, ammo, and interest, go back up and down again. Cleaning between each group assures a level playing field, and taking the off-target shot assures that the rifle has "settled" at that torque. Repeating up and down assures that no single group is a fluke.

All that said, your rifle will VERY likely not change much, if at all. I shot ten groups at each 5in-lb increment before deciding that 60lbs was best for her rifle. The WORST groups were 0.3MOA, the best groups were 0.15MOA... So essentially we're talking about a ragged hole compared to a ragged hole... Not much difference for the average hunter.

Thanks for all your info the reason I asked about the rear screw since it is not pillar bedded as the other 2 are I did not think you would put that screw under that kind of torque since you going directly into the stock without something there to support it.Thanks

Ok, I thought you were talking about the rear action screw, not the trigger guard screw. You're right, you don't need that kind of torque on the trigger guard screw. Personally, I don't tension the trigger guard screw because it won't really effect the action itself.

I typically loosen the trigger guard screw slightly as I re-install the action bolts, and tension all 3 screws at the same time. I run the screws in all together, torquing each bolt a little at a time to keep the action tension balanced as they go in, and I like to keep the trigger guard screw proportionately balanced at the same time. Your action bolt torque routine might be different than mine, but whatever works for you is fine.