New stock for a Rem. 700 3006???
12-12-2010, 09:53 AM
#11
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,780
12-14-2010, 06:44 AM
#12
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 588
Well, I ordered a glass bedding kit from Brownnell's and I have not decided yet to attempt it myself or not. I'm very nervious about doing it myself. I think I'm going to atleast talk to a few gun smiths before I decide. The stiffing part of the forend seems like that would be easy, it the action that I'm worred about.
12-14-2010, 07:22 AM
#13
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,780
Cajun
I have bedded a bunch of 700s. For a first timer it will probably take a few hours to do the prep work and bed the rifle. Probably the hardest part is waiting for the bedding to set up before you can take it apart to see how it looks. If you decide to DIY I would be glad to answer any questions. Just send a PM if you need any help that I can provide. Which bedding kit did you buy?
I have bedded a bunch of 700s. For a first timer it will probably take a few hours to do the prep work and bed the rifle. Probably the hardest part is waiting for the bedding to set up before you can take it apart to see how it looks. If you decide to DIY I would be glad to answer any questions. Just send a PM if you need any help that I can provide. Which bedding kit did you buy?
12-15-2010, 06:52 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Get the gel kit. I have used the other kit and its runny. You can add stuff to stiffen it up some.
Also, don't be nervous. Just put several coats of release agent on, Even some carnuba was. I too am always nervous. Just remove the trigger assembly, put masking tape on everything. Don't be so concerned about clay dams. I usually overdo this, and makes a job turn out like crap. I myself don't worry about the tang bedding. Only the recoil lug area. Also don't be afraid to hog the crap out of the recoil lug area. In fact, go wild in that area removing material, it will fillin with stronger glass. If you don't, you can get a very thin film in the recoil lug area and it will pull up or wear when removing.
If you going with the factory tupperware stock, I highly recommend not only glass, but pillar bedding.
Also, don't be nervous. Just put several coats of release agent on, Even some carnuba was. I too am always nervous. Just remove the trigger assembly, put masking tape on everything. Don't be so concerned about clay dams. I usually overdo this, and makes a job turn out like crap. I myself don't worry about the tang bedding. Only the recoil lug area. Also don't be afraid to hog the crap out of the recoil lug area. In fact, go wild in that area removing material, it will fillin with stronger glass. If you don't, you can get a very thin film in the recoil lug area and it will pull up or wear when removing.
If you going with the factory tupperware stock, I highly recommend not only glass, but pillar bedding.
12-15-2010, 07:21 AM
#17
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 588
Thanks for all the input, it is appreciated. I'm really leaning towards doing it myself. I plan to take my time on this and I'll more then likely be starting a thread and asking questions as I go. I see there is a lot of experience here. Bigcountry and Big Uncle, I'm sure I'll be PMing you guys. Seeing the comments, I'm feeling positive now about the kit I bought. Should be here this week.
This is the one I got.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3..._GEL_4_oz__Kit
This is the one I got.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=3..._GEL_4_oz__Kit
12-15-2010, 07:31 AM
#18
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 588
One guy I know suggested bondo with fiberglass in it for this area then seal it with a sealer. I'm going to tackle that section after I finish the action. Also, I'm not sure how far 4 oz of the Acraglas will take me starting at the rear of the action going forward.
On the Acraglas, how is the best way to remove the extra that seeps out or goes where you don't want it? I'm assuming file and sand paper?
12-15-2010, 08:32 AM
#19
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,780
Please tell me more about pillar bedding. What material should I use for this area? Can I custom cut aluminum pieces to place in the sections to stiffen it up before adding other material?
One guy I know suggested bondo with fiberglass in it for this area then seal it with a sealer. I'm going to tackle that section after I finish the action. Also, I'm not sure how far 4 oz of the Acraglas will take me starting at the rear of the action going forward.
On the Acraglas, how is the best way to remove the extra that seeps out or goes where you don't want it? I'm assuming file and sand paper?
One guy I know suggested bondo with fiberglass in it for this area then seal it with a sealer. I'm going to tackle that section after I finish the action. Also, I'm not sure how far 4 oz of the Acraglas will take me starting at the rear of the action going forward.
On the Acraglas, how is the best way to remove the extra that seeps out or goes where you don't want it? I'm assuming file and sand paper?
You chose well with your bedding kit. There should be enough compound to easily do the actions on a couple rifles.
Tape up the outside of your stock with masking tape before you apply the bedding, and put the release coating on all of your metal parts that will possibly touch the bedding and cleanup is fairly easy.
The most time consuming parts of a bedding job is removing material from the stock and taping the stock, barrel (from the point that you want it floated), & front and bottom of the recoil lug. A dremel tool is really handy for removing material from the stock.
The worst part of a bedding job is the nervous wait until you can remove the action from the stock to see your work. I used to worry that I would screw up and epoxy the action to the stock forever, but I've done many bedding jobs and have never had a problem.
12-15-2010, 11:04 AM
#20
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 588
I don't think the pillar bedding will help much for what you are doing, but Brownells has nice alluminum pillars for about $10 if you decide to go that way. Their pillars are contoured to fit the round bottom of your 700 action but will need to be cut to length. Pillars are an excellent idea on wood stocks, but synthetic stocks don't have the same problems with the tension on the action screws. I wouldn't do pillars on my first bedding job.
You chose well with your bedding kit. There should be enough compound to easily do the actions on a couple rifles.
Tape up the outside of your stock with masking tape before you apply the bedding, and put the release coating on all of your metal parts that will possibly touch the bedding and cleanup is fairly easy.
The most time consuming parts of a bedding job is removing material from the stock and taping the stock, barrel (from the point that you want it floated), & front and bottom of the recoil lug. A dremel tool is really handy for removing material from the stock.
The worst part of a bedding job is the nervous wait until you can remove the action from the stock to see your work. I used to worry that I would screw up and epoxy the action to the stock forever, but I've done many bedding jobs and have never had a problem.
You chose well with your bedding kit. There should be enough compound to easily do the actions on a couple rifles.
Tape up the outside of your stock with masking tape before you apply the bedding, and put the release coating on all of your metal parts that will possibly touch the bedding and cleanup is fairly easy.
The most time consuming parts of a bedding job is removing material from the stock and taping the stock, barrel (from the point that you want it floated), & front and bottom of the recoil lug. A dremel tool is really handy for removing material from the stock.
The worst part of a bedding job is the nervous wait until you can remove the action from the stock to see your work. I used to worry that I would screw up and epoxy the action to the stock forever, but I've done many bedding jobs and have never had a problem.