Slug gun quandry
 

So I went out to the range today to sight in my new rifled slug barrel and scope on an 870 express, and after shooting two types of Remingtons, Winchester, and Hornadys, I'm still not able to get the accurate groupings at 50 yards (the max distance for my area). The Remingtons both did well at first, but then got a couple fliers from each type, the Winchesters gave me at best a 6" grouping, and the Hornadys also gave me a good groupings at first, but had a couple fliers as well. So, after spending over a 100 bucks on ammo, and with a very bruised shoulder, I'm a little fumed. A friend suggested trying rifled slugs in my rifled barrel (he does with his), as they're much cheaper, and according to him, more accurate. Any suggestions, or should I just buy a rifle like I first thought?

My 870's always liked coppersolids 2.75" and lightfields. Hated anything 3" or the newer lighter slugs.

a few common slug gun mistakes I see at the range.

-trying to sight in or get groups w/out a rear rest
-resting the the forend(pump) on the bag(not a stable platform) rest on the magazine tube/receiver instead
- holding the gun too loosely ,pull the buttstock back tight to your shoulder.
-using cheap scopes and cheaper rings and mounts, they just dont hold up against 12ga recoil.

I would agree on lightfields too they work well in almost all guns, brenekee KO sabots aswell. rifled slugs in a rifled barrel arent a great idea iMO due to leading in the barrel. theyre designed for smoothys

First off since you have a rifle barrel stick with sabot slugs for the best performance.

You never stated what gauge your shooting nor the type of sabot slugs (many types within each ammo maker), what length slugs, weight, etc.

Did you have the scope bored sighted? Make sure you check the scope mounts, they could become loose. Also, I see this often that the stock of the gun maybe to big for the shooter, this in turn will hamper the shooter from getting a proper sight picture, in turn causing bad shooting. I cut my stocks on all my firearms somewhat more then I need to make up the difference for bulky clothing during the gun season here in New Jersey.

Once you find the proper sabot slug for your gun, sight in at 2" or 2.5" high at 50 yards, this will put you within the kill zone out to roughly 100 yards.

I notice over many years the Lightfield 2-3/4" EXP slugs work great in almost all shotguns. Your Remington barrel has a 1 in 35" twist, that is a slow twist but common in slug guns, I have that barrel on my 11-87 the Lightfields work the best for me. Hornady, Winchester Golds, X3, Remington Core-Lokts, Federal Barnes, and similar sabot slugs work better in barrels with a faster twist.

Try the Lightfields, sight in at 2" or 2.5" high at 50 yards, I think you will like them, but once more check the scope if its bore sighted and the mounts are tight

Nothing wrong with using rifled slugs in rifled barrels..You just need to be aware that there is a potential for leading and you may have to clean your barrel often to maintain accuracy.. At one time Hastings actually recommended either BRI sabots or Winchester rifled slugs for its rifled barrels..

You mentioned that you were getting some decent groups at first and then flyers starting showing up.. Is it possible that you were starting to flinch from your bruised shoulder..??..

My all time favorite sabot slug in 12 gauge has always been the Winchester BRI 2 3/4" standard velocity...It always grouped the best in my Remington rifled barrel and was MUCH gentler on my shoulder than most other 12 gauge slugs..Killed deer just fine, too...

Make sure your barrel is very tight.If the barrel twists under the load of recoil,this can also cause what you experience.My mossberg loves 2 3/4 BRI's from both Federal and Winchester.100 yard groups are alittle over 2".Rifled barrels have great potential.It will come together for you.

1+ on the Lightfield 2-3/4" EXP for the 870.
Produces devastatingly lethal results.

When shooting in the summer, its wise to let them barrel's cool off.

bb

Slugs will definitely loosen the barrel and scope.

Make sure your scope is quality and tight.

This sounds like your problem more than the gun or ammo.

Is it a dedicated "slug gun"?If it is how about that deal about welding the barrel to the reciever ?Isn't that supposed to help alot with accuracy?

Often times a slug gun with the scope mounted to the receiver will have issues like this due to the way the barrel mounts to the gun.

As mentioned above, when the gun recoils the barrel moves in relation the scope, causing your patterns to open up. Companies such as Tar-Hunt which produce some of the most accurate slug guns out there pin the barrel to the receiver to stop this independent movement.

Another possibility is that you are shooting too fast. You need to allow the barrel to cool between shots. The walls of a shotgun barrel are fairly thin and the heat can cause your gun to start throwing flyers. Granted 6" at 50 yards is pretty significant and probably not 100% heat related, but it can certainly contribute. The most I take is 2 shots before allowing the barrel several minutes to cool back to ambient temp.

One other possibility (although it would require a diferent barrel) is to use a barrel with a cantilever scope mount. In this case, the scope mount is welded directly onto the barrel. The scope and barrel come off as a single piece. Unless your scope is trashed or your mounts are loose, the gun should hold zero almost indefinitely (Mine has been zeroed for at least 3 years and has been on and off the gun repeatedly)

Thanks for all the input. All the loads were 3", and I have a cantilever set up, so barrel movement shouldn't affect the accuracy. I'm going to try the Hornady's and Lightfields this weekend, as they seem to work well for a lot of people. I also agree that flinching was probably a significant factor. What is a good solution for that with my setup though? I have a friend with a Lead Sled, and so zeroing in shouldn't be a problem if I use that, but I don't want to blow the truly important shot at my dream buck because I flinched. Any suggestions?

They make an adjustable trigger group for the 870.They are right expensive ,around $200.00 but in my oppinion the lighter the pull the less chance of pulling off of your shot flinch included.

You do not need 3" slugs. Your shots are around 50 yds, and 2.75" will work just as well out to 100 yds. Switch to 2.75", unless your 870 has a 3.5" chamber.

A lengthy sight-in session with slugs is a waste of money and time for most guys, as you realize by admitting you may be flinching.

Make sure your mounts and rings are tight.

I shoot 2.75" 12 Ga. Brenneke KO Sabot Slugs (not the "regular" KO slug), and they absolutely hammer deer.