Browning X-Bolt Question
03-28-2010, 03:34 PM
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: VA, USA
Posts: 3,116
Browning X-Bolt Question
This might be better suited in the new "gunsmith" section but I will ask here anyway.
Just picked up my new X-Bolt Hunter earlier this week. I am planning to adjust the trigger down and was wondering if it was possible to turn the weight adjustment screw too much? All the manual states is which way to turn it.
Just picked up my new X-Bolt Hunter earlier this week. I am planning to adjust the trigger down and was wondering if it was possible to turn the weight adjustment screw too much? All the manual states is which way to turn it.
03-29-2010, 12:07 PM
#3
Spike
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 13
Removing the screw completly will give you the lightest setting wich is around 3-3.5 lbs.If its not light enough you can buy a replacement spring from these guy http://www.erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/c2_p1.html.
03-29-2010, 06:28 PM
#4
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: VA, USA
Posts: 3,116
Removing the screw completly will give you the lightest setting wich is around 3-3.5 lbs.If its not light enough you can buy a replacement spring from these guy http://www.erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/c2_p1.html.
So it is safe to completely remove the screw?
but this was also coming from a Win M94 30-30 so anything was going to feel great!
04-06-2010, 10:01 AM
#8
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location:
Posts: 5,130
If you can afford a X-Bolt you can afford to have your smith do a basic trigger job on it (proud owner of a Stainless Stalker in .338 Win Mag).
I always have my smith do a trigger job and hand lap the barrel on all my rifles before I run the first round down the tube.
All my rifles shoot under 1" MOA after I break-in the barrel at the range (+/- 100-150 rounds); .17 HMR to .338 Win Mag.
Then they are "ready" to hunt with...............
I wish all my rifles were built like the X-Bolt !!!
I always have my smith do a trigger job and hand lap the barrel on all my rifles before I run the first round down the tube.
All my rifles shoot under 1" MOA after I break-in the barrel at the range (+/- 100-150 rounds); .17 HMR to .338 Win Mag.
Then they are "ready" to hunt with...............
I wish all my rifles were built like the X-Bolt !!!
Last edited by Sheridan; 04-06-2010 at 10:04 AM.
04-06-2010, 08:12 PM
#9
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: VA, USA
Posts: 3,116
If you can afford a X-Bolt you can afford to have your smith do a basic trigger job on it (proud owner of a Stainless Stalker in .338 Win Mag).
I always have my smith do a trigger job and hand lap the barrel on all my rifles before I run the first round down the tube.
All my rifles shoot under 1" MOA after I break-in the barrel at the range (+/- 100-150 rounds); .17 HMR to .338 Win Mag.
Then they are "ready" to hunt with...............
I wish all my rifles were built like the X-Bolt !!!
I always have my smith do a trigger job and hand lap the barrel on all my rifles before I run the first round down the tube.
All my rifles shoot under 1" MOA after I break-in the barrel at the range (+/- 100-150 rounds); .17 HMR to .338 Win Mag.
Then they are "ready" to hunt with...............
I wish all my rifles were built like the X-Bolt !!!
Now to the original question, I wound up removing the screw completely and safety checked the rifle and all was well. My biggest concern is something getting in the trigger housing now that the scew is gone. I thought about covering the hole with a thin layer of silicon? Any other ideas?
04-07-2010, 06:29 AM
#10
Typical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 721
My X-Bolt and a Tikka T-3 are the only factory rifles I own which did not need a trigger job, IMO. They only needed to be lightened.
Now to the original question, I wound up removing the screw completely and safety checked the rifle and all was well. My biggest concern is something getting in the trigger housing now that the scew is gone. I thought about covering the hole with a thin layer of silicon? Any other ideas?
Now to the original question, I wound up removing the screw completely and safety checked the rifle and all was well. My biggest concern is something getting in the trigger housing now that the scew is gone. I thought about covering the hole with a thin layer of silicon? Any other ideas?