Well I got a Mosin Nagant 91/30 2 er 3 weeks ago and the old shellac finish scraped off with a fingernail. I figured since I got this gun to mess around with I'd put some new finish on it. I ended up putting some red mahogany stain and semi gloss on it. Didn't like it, and I didn't use stain-prep so the birch didn't take to it well anyways. I decided to move back to square one and get down to fresh wood via sanding. I'm not completely done removing the stain, but I figured out I really liked the look of the stock without stain. Any ideas on how to finish 'er up, while keeping the wood's natural appearance? Mebbe boiled linseed oil, or tung oil...?
Top to bottom, original shellac, 1st stain, no finish (or almost no finish)
bugsNbows
02-17-2010 04:25 AM
+1 on the tung oil. You may want to cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits and apply several layers.
thndrchiken
02-17-2010 05:41 AM
I use a mixture of tung and linseed oil. Then add a teaspoon of japan drier. Hand rubbed with a wet sand every other coat allowing at least 24-48 hrs between coats. It darkens just a little but still allows the wood to be displayed in it's natural condition.
Big Z
02-17-2010 07:45 AM
Seems to be infinite combinations. Thndr, what mixture of tung/BLO do you use, and how much per tsp of japan drier?
skb2706
02-17-2010 08:17 AM
I really like Linspeed (basically its linseed and mineral spirits) but to do it right it takes about a month to do a rifle.
thndrchiken
02-17-2010 08:36 AM
Originally Posted by Big Z
(Post 3578566)
Seems to be infinite combinations. Thndr, what mixture of tung/BLO do you use, and how much per tsp of japan drier?
I mix up small batches that will be enough for about 6 coats depending on the size of the stock. Usually 1 tbsp of tung, 1tbsp of linseed, 1tbsp of mineral spirits and 1 tsp of Japan drier. Anything more and your wasting it because if it sits for too long it will form a crust, also make sure to use a sealable container for storage. Preparation is the key though. Once the stock is prepped I like to seal it with a 50/50 or even 60/40 mixture of mineral spirits/oil, the linseed is usually better for this due to being a thinner consistency than the tung. This can be brushed on and will dry fairly quickly so you can easily get about 4 coats on in one day if conditions permit. Drying times can be sped up with a dehumidifier. I find that adding the Japan drier drastically speeds the drying time of the oils.
I like to use latex gloves that are firm fitting and just dab a couple of fingers and start rubbing in smooth even coats. For a Mosin Nagant working at a leisurely pace you should be able to do one coat in about 30-45 minutes easy but take enough time to ensure that there is even coverage. I use an eye bolt threaded into the butt plate screw hole to hang the wet stock and provide an extra grip point while working. Wet sand with the finish mixture every other coat with 600 grit wet/dry (my preference). Big tip, ensure that your work area is as dust free as possible.
halfbakedi420
02-17-2010 08:38 AM
just put a clear coat on it..looks good the bottom pic does
thndrchiken
02-17-2010 08:41 AM
Originally Posted by halfbakedi420
(Post 3578601)
just put a clear coat on it..looks good the bottom pic does
Yeh, until it starts flaking. Over time the clearcoat will start to yellow and look crappy.
Trust me there is no substitute for a nice hand rubbed oil finish. Not to mention the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.
Big Z
02-17-2010 08:50 AM
Sounds good.. Whatever happens, it can't possibly be worse than how it was :D
