Stock refinishing...
 

Well I got a Mosin Nagant 91/30 2 er 3 weeks ago and the old shellac finish scraped off with a fingernail. I figured since I got this gun to mess around with I'd put some new finish on it. I ended up putting some red mahogany stain and semi gloss on it. Didn't like it, and I didn't use stain-prep so the birch didn't take to it well anyways. I decided to move back to square one and get down to fresh wood via sanding. I'm not completely done removing the stain, but I figured out I really liked the look of the stock without stain. Any ideas on how to finish 'er up, while keeping the wood's natural appearance? Mebbe boiled linseed oil, or tung oil...?

Top to bottom, original shellac, 1st stain, no finish (or almost no finish)

+1 on the tung oil. You may want to cut it 50/50 with mineral spirits and apply several layers.

I use a mixture of tung and linseed oil. Then add a teaspoon of japan drier. Hand rubbed with a wet sand every other coat allowing at least 24-48 hrs between coats. It darkens just a little but still allows the wood to be displayed in it's natural condition.

Seems to be infinite combinations. Thndr, what mixture of tung/BLO do you use, and how much per tsp of japan drier?

I really like Linspeed (basically its linseed and mineral spirits) but to do it right it takes about a month to do a rifle.

I mix up small batches that will be enough for about 6 coats depending on the size of the stock. Usually 1 tbsp of tung, 1tbsp of linseed, 1tbsp of mineral spirits and 1 tsp of Japan drier. Anything more and your wasting it because if it sits for too long it will form a crust, also make sure to use a sealable container for storage. Preparation is the key though. Once the stock is prepped I like to seal it with a 50/50 or even 60/40 mixture of mineral spirits/oil, the linseed is usually better for this due to being a thinner consistency than the tung. This can be brushed on and will dry fairly quickly so you can easily get about 4 coats on in one day if conditions permit. Drying times can be sped up with a dehumidifier. I find that adding the Japan drier drastically speeds the drying time of the oils.

I like to use latex gloves that are firm fitting and just dab a couple of fingers and start rubbing in smooth even coats. For a Mosin Nagant working at a leisurely pace you should be able to do one coat in about 30-45 minutes easy but take enough time to ensure that there is even coverage. I use an eye bolt threaded into the butt plate screw hole to hang the wet stock and provide an extra grip point while working. Wet sand with the finish mixture every other coat with 600 grit wet/dry (my preference). Big tip, ensure that your work area is as dust free as possible.

just put a clear coat on it..looks good the bottom pic does

Yeh, until it starts flaking. Over time the clearcoat will start to yellow and look crappy.

Trust me there is no substitute for a nice hand rubbed oil finish. Not to mention the satisfaction of knowing you did it yourself.

Sounds good.. Whatever happens, it can't possibly be worse than how it was :D

Bit more work done today - getting closer...

Z, I've had good luck on birch using powdered RIT dye mixed with denatured alcohol. I used a Preval sprayer to spray mine, but if you have your own airbrush it'll look even better. The dye does a much better job of coloring the wood than stain, as you found out stain can get blotchy on birch. As far as a finish is concerned, any of the wipe on oil finishes will do a good job. My favorite to date is Minwax Antique oil, it is harder and more durable than some of the other I've tried......Mike

Thanks for all the ideas. For now, I added some of Big Z's super-secret wood formula.

for quick jobs that look great, im a believer in spray on spar urethane...simple to use....and IMO it looks great....i use the stuff alot...did 1 stock with it and will do more with it...and seems like a very durable finish as well...