Iv'e often wondered how much a full length stock affects barrel whip? And if free-floating a barrel makes for a more accurate rifle, then why aren't all rifle barrels free-floated? I have a CZ with a full length stock, a Weatherby that's free-floated and Iv'e owned different Remington 700's with the barrel resting on the ridge in the forearm. All of these guns shoot equally well and I can see no difference in accuracy from one system to the other---for the average hunter who can shoot well, any of these rifles would be more than acceptable. am I missing something?

It's not really barrel "whip". The amplitude of the sideways vibration is actually quite small, but can be enough to open the groups up. Heavier barrels can be made to shoot tighter groups more easily since the additional mass and stiffness of the barrel reduces the frequency and amplitude of the harmonic vibrations.

As for the benefits of pressure bedding vs. free-floating, it's really not that one is necessarily better than the other, but rather that the free floated setup is easier to accomplish and will generally be more consistent. Full length or point pressure bedding, is done perfectly for the particular rifle, can actually make the rifle more accurate. The problem is that a really good full length or pressure bedding job is tough to do well, and a poorly bedded barrel will be much worse than a free floated barrel.

Another advantage of free floating is that it removes the stock from the accuracy equation. If there is contact between the barrel and stock, then any changes in the pressure the stock applies to the barrel can and usually does change the point of impact and/or group size. For instance, if you sight the rifle in without a sling, and then use a sling in the field to steady your aim, the pressure from the front sling swivel pulling on the stock can flex the stock, which in turn puts pressure on the barrel that wasn't there when you sighted it in, which can shift the point of impact significantly. Another think with a wood stock is that changes in the moisture content and temperature of the wood can cause it to warp, changing the pressure on the barrel. By free floating the barrel, there is no contact at all between the barrel and stock, so any changes in the shape of the stock aren't transferred to the barrel effecting accuracy.

In summary, a perfectly pressure bedded barrel can be more accurate than the same barrel if free floated, but the free floated barrel will be better than a poorly bedded barrel every time. Free floating started as a means to reduce costs associated with inletting and bedding a barreled action, but it was realized quickly that free floated rifles tend to be, overall, more accurate and consistent than bedded barrels.

Mike

What he said...if a barrel has pressure points, it has to remain the same to deliver consistency. It's not uncommon to have a pressure point at the tip of the stock for lighter barrels, though heavy barrels are usually (or should be?) floated all the way, no support needed. Also, unequal pressure left and right could cause stringing.

The full length wooden stocks (Mannlilcher) are attractive, but are often not as accurate as a free floating barrel. The barrels are usually a quick taper or pencil taper and the stocks will have barrel bands the full length of the stock. Two problems with this is when resting the stock on solid objects, pressure on the stock can cause pressure on the barrel and less accurate shot. The big concern is multiple shots. As the barrel heats it will begin to warp slightly and along with the barrel bands restricting its movement will put stress on the barrel and misdirect the round. I have an older model Sako with a Mannlilcher stock. I can shoot probably 4 consecutive rounds before they start to drift. Not much of a difference, maybe 1/2" high right at 100 yards, but at extended ranges, this can be enough for a poor hit on the game or even a miss. A free floating barrel and bedded action is not effected by heat as quickly and will remain accurate with multiple shots

Thanks guys for your answers--this is the best forum for information--unfortunately, I live in a state where whitetail hunting is restricted to shotgun slugs or rifles chambered for handgun calibers. So I need to buy something chambered for .44 mag. Planned on using the 06, 45-70 and a couple others for pigs, hopefully if winter is ever over. When sighting in these various rifles, I let the barrels cool between 3 or 5 shot strings so the accuracy seems pretty consistant. Now to decide who to go with for the .44 mag----thanks again for the input--John

A good person to talk to is NULA owner Melvin. Cat knows his stuff. When people say they need a 1" contour barrel, he smiles and says "really". I have seen NULA rifles with pencil barrels that are easily sub0.5" guns. YOu can have pressure point as long as its consistent and with the stiffest stock you can get. I got some real learning on my visit to his place. If you tell him, all guns need freefloated, he will tell you, you are compensating for a problem. If you tell him you need to torque the action screws to exactly 40in/lbs, he will tell you, you are compensating for anther problem.

I have varmit rifles with bull barrels that are true sub0.5" guns and they have pressure points. Why would I take it out? I also have freefloated custom that are sub0.5" guns.